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  1. #16

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    Nov 2004
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    I`d like to see what people have to say about going straight to rotary from nothing. I don`t remember for sure, but I think Sean (G35Stilez) started out only with rotary, and he did incredible work. I don`t know if he ever got a PC or even had problems with holograms or buffer trails that he would need a PC to even it out, but yea anyone else on here that started out with just the rotary? How hard is the learning curve straight from hand to rotary?

  2. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDookie
    ... I would still rather grab my PC and/or Cyclo over the rotary any day.


    You`ll like the UDM.

  3. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeWinLDS
    I`d like to see what people have to say about going straight to rotary from nothing. I don`t remember for sure, but I think Sean (G35Stilez) started out only with rotary, and he did incredible work. I don`t know if he ever got a PC or even had problems with holograms or buffer trails that he would need a PC to even it out, but yea anyone else on here that started out with just the rotary? How hard is the learning curve straight from hand to rotary?




    just got a makita rotary, used my new UDM once. Its a lot more powerfull, the controll is slightly harder but you have to realize that its more important also. It you slip around or hang on a spot too long w/ a UDM, no big deal, w/ a rotary, well hope for the best(not meant to make people fearful). This is on a cutting step. The rotary seems to bring more shine IMO. I plan on using it on my daily driver that i`ve already gone over w/ the UDM, see if I can get to some of the scratches that were still there beause I didnt have more time.

  4. #19
    sneek's Avatar
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    Apr 2006
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    It isn`t as easy to burn paint as most people think. Just get something to practice on.

  5. #20

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    Aug 2007
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    yeah just stay away from using the edge of the pad, when getting into the tight spots. Also wool is much more user friendly imo

  6. #21

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    Rotary is the only way for me when doing serious correction.

  7. #22
    JasonD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedEuphoria
    yeah just stay away from using the edge of the pad, when getting into the tight spots. Also wool is much more user friendly imo


    Doesn`t wool create more heat?

  8. #23

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    Jan 2007
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    I think you`ve got your answer. If money is tight then buy a cheap Chicago Electric rotory for thirty bucks. Of all the detailing tools and products I own there are only two that I wouldn`t go without. My rotory and my foam gun. My foam gun eliminates wash induced marring and my rotory provides a shine that my P/C never could. Check out some of the click and brags of Rydawg and RickRack. Then look at the top of the post where they describe how they achieved their awesome finishes. I guarantee that they used a rotory almost every time. I only use my P/C for two things now: applying waxes and removing an occasional hologram.



    Patrick

  9. #24
    JAFO Junebug's Avatar
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    Wool actually runs cooler than foam, but you will get buffer swirls or haze from wool if you`re using a heavy cut compound. They`re easy to correct with foam pad and a good polish.

  10. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDookie
    Doesn`t wool create more heat?
    by looking at your post count I thought it was sarcasm, but never know. Wool runs considerable cooler while still cutting.

  11. #26

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    Apr 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapinnn
    +1 on the rotary. I`ve been using it for a few months but what a difference! I would have picked one up much sooner if I knew how easy it is to use. If you are having trouble with flat pads skipping you might want to change to Edge Wave or LC CCS pads, they skip a bit less. That`s the only issue I had with the rotary.



    I only use my PC for LSPs and carpet cleaning.
    make that +2. I have been using a rotary for about 5 months. I must say i like both my PC and Rotary but there are just some thigns that a PC cant do that a rotary can.
    down here in colorful colorado!

  12. #27

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    May 2004
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    Yorkville, IL
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    not sure what some of you guys are doing or how long it takes, but I can do a wash, clay, wash, dry, PC remove swirls, apply sealant, dress tires and clean exhaust, wipe off sealant, apply & buff out QD on a WRX Sedan in under 3 hrs. And that`s not even "rushing it".



    I can`t see the Rotary taking alot of time off of that.



    I have been able to do that to a WRX rushing it in 2.5 hrs or so, and with help of a friend or my wife, cut that down to just under 2 hrs.



    I have the $30 Chicago Electric Rotarty and I just don`t like it. Compared to my PC, it`s bulky, heavy and harder to control (with a Meguiars Red Cutting Pad - same pad I`ve been using with my PC for 3+ yrs now with no similar issues) than my PC.



    My $.02
    Current Rides:

    2008.5 Crystal White Mazdaspeed3 (mine)

    2008 Ford Edge Vapor Silver (wife`s)

  13. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeWinLDS
    I`d like to see what people have to say about going straight to rotary from nothing...


    Noting that I greatly prefer using the Cyclos compared to my rotaries...



    I learned on a Milwaukee rotary/wool pad back in the `70s, the days of single stage. I was one of those dealership prep kids :soscared: but I did good work (if I do say so myself ), never messed anything up badly enough to need paint, and was the only guy that they let work on dark colors. But holograms aren`t the same issue with ss that they are with b/c, and today I do my final polishing with the PC/Cyclo to make sure I finish up hologram-free.



    IMO it`s a matter of the individual operator. You gotta have a knowledge base to work from, and a certain mindset and degree of physical coordination. After not touching a rotary for ~20 years and having *never* used on on b/c, I took the Makita out of the box and used it on my beloved S8 without any problems, but that`s me.

  14. #29

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    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue-sun
    not sure what some of you guys are doing or how long it takes, but I can do a wash, clay, wash, dry, PC remove swirls, apply sealant, dress tires and clean exhaust, wipe off sealant, apply & buff out QD on a WRX Sedan in under 3 hrs. And that`s not even "rushing it".



    I can`t see the Rotary taking alot of time off of that.



    I have been able to do that to a WRX rushing it in 2.5 hrs or so, and with help of a friend or my wife, cut that down to just under 2 hrs.



    I have the $30 Chicago Electric Rotarty and I just don`t like it. Compared to my PC, it`s bulky, heavy and harder to control (with a Meguiars Red Cutting Pad - same pad I`ve been using with my PC for 3+ yrs now with no similar issues) than my PC.



    My $.02


    man i wish i could say the same, i must be doing something wrong. What you described would take me double the amount of time on a moderately swirled car.

  15. #30

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    Sep 2007
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    Louisville KY
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue-sun
    not sure what some of you guys are doing or how long it takes, but I can do a wash, clay, wash, dry, PC remove swirls, apply sealant, dress tires and clean exhaust, wipe off sealant, apply & buff out QD on a WRX Sedan in under 3 hrs. And that`s not even "rushing it".



    I can`t see the Rotary taking alot of time off of that.



    I have been able to do that to a WRX rushing it in 2.5 hrs or so, and with help of a friend or my wife, cut that down to just under 2 hrs.



    I have the $30 Chicago Electric Rotarty and I just don`t like it. Compared to my PC, it`s bulky, heavy and harder to control (with a Meguiars Red Cutting Pad - same pad I`ve been using with my PC for 3+ yrs now with no similar issues) than my PC.



    My $.02


    On cars that dont need alot of correction(newer) I am right there with you, about an hour on prep,engine, wheeels and wash, I then do the interior and about 2 hours tops to complete the exterior when the inside is done.



    Anything that needs correction I use my Makita or for light colored cars, it takes about 20-30 min to one step a silver avg condition 2002 or so vehicle with a rotary, dark cars i use my PC for quick polish or one steps.



    The reason you may not like your rotary could be the brand, I hate dewalts and millwalkii

    if you were to use a metabo or makita(lighter) you may have a different experience.

 

 
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