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  1. #16
    SpoiledMan's Avatar
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    The heavier pad is a very slight different shade of green and has pores that are more open.



    Did you get yours from CMA?
    Triple Honda Owner

  2. #17

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    Got mine from a LC distributor in Thailand (Bangkok). Yeah come to think of it the ccs green I have is rougher and has more open pores. Think I`ll give it to my mum for washing plates..hehehe

  3. #18
    SpoiledMan's Avatar
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    Yeah, I don`t really care for that green pad. Two are still in the package and I will likely return them. Foamed wool does a better job in that area of correction and is much easier to control.
    Triple Honda Owner

  4. #19

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    So you reckon I should go with LC white or Black pad with Menz 106FF to get it to finish hologram free since you say Blue could be an issue?

  5. #20
    SpoiledMan's Avatar
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    Black is still a little soft. Green or white are probably better options.
    Triple Honda Owner

  6. #21

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    Can`t seem to get the purple foam wool here. Damn... looks like I have to order mine direct from the USA.

  7. #22

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    ok, will definitely use the white and see how I go. 3 passes ok?

  8. #23
    SpoiledMan's Avatar
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    If you`re going to order I`d suggest the AG green.
    Triple Honda Owner

  9. #24

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    Just hope AG will send me the "right" ccs green and NOT the one I currently have.

  10. #25
    SpoiledMan's Avatar
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    They only sell one green.
    Triple Honda Owner

  11. #26
    Pre Med Student NavindraLR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpoiledMan
    Probably with the water. I never use water as an additional lube unless it`s in the compounding stage. 106ff will do fine on it`s own. It also could have been in the amount of product used, how fast your hand movements were as well. *I* also don`t subscribe to the various speeds while using the rotary or buffing at 600 RPM. It`s just too slow to work the product. I usually run the CCS green(AG) somewhere from 1100 to 1500 depending on the surface.


    I agree.. the water acts as an abrasive. You shouldnt really need anything to keep the pad from drying up. If it becomes caked, just clean it, or switch to a new one. Also, I move about 1-2" per second. I dont think you may have worked in the 1066ff to it`s final potential. It probably need to be broken down more.

  12. #27
    Dream Machines SVR's Avatar
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    Hi Mr Glym



    I use 106FF with an LC black pad and move at 1 to 2 inches per second

    Start at 600 rpm for one group of left to right passes, then 1000 for another, up to 1400 for two passes and then back down to 800 to finish it absolutely perfect



    It most likely hologrammed because you worked it too long or your speeds were not sufficient to break it down 100%

    And water will affect the abrasives. I use aussie gold showroom glaze (worlds best QD/Sealant spray) on my pads as it gives extra gloss to the finish and won`t affect the buffing)



    Hey holograms happen to the best of us but as long as you stop a little after the polish goes clear and your working it at 800 to 900 rpm, it should be gold mate



    Since I do three to five steps on most cars, I always finish down with LC black with FF and use blue with showroom glaze & driven quick spray for more brightness and lustre
    Car care/detailing sadly isn`t high on the agenda for 98% of australians.

  13. #28

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    MrGlym, one little thing to add: it seems that you are reading the English forums as well, where the "pass" is interpreted differently than here. Here we mean a complete polishing , from application to removal as "one pass". Ye Olde English equivalent of our "pass" is "hit" and pass means one coverage of a given work area (for example once horizontally).



    I think that the "hit & pass" description is a bit more exact and understandable while the Autopian meaning of "pass" adds confusion, especially to the newbies.

  14. #29

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    try working at higher speeds with less passes. I found 1200 - 1400 rpm to be just right for 106ff.

  15. #30

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    hehe..thks Bence. Sorry abt the confusion. Guess I`m a retard at 1am last ngt :p Nah..I don`t hang around the English forums just here cos it`s here that I learn the most from



    ok..I slap on LC white this morning with 106FF and did 1hit at 600rpm then 2hits at 1200-1400rpm and a final hit at 800-900rpm for a smooth (I think) finish down. All moving at 1"-2" per second. Looks great with the halogen lights turned on (after buffing it off with MF) but unfortunately it`s been raining the whole day today to really check for holograms. So judgement day`s tomorrow (fingers crossed).



    My pad seems to last longer now that i don`t mist it with water when using the 106FF or the other Menz FF. Doesn`t even cake up now unlike before. So much extended working time without feeling the "drag". Doing what I did I certainly hope I`ve broken down 100% of the 106FF.



    If there`s no holograms tomorrow I was thinking of applying JW Prime Strong by hand and the AJT. Wait an hr. before applying Optimum Opti Seal. But if halos still persist I`ll whip out the LC Black and start all over again (sigh...).



    Hi SVR...I`ll second U on that Aussie Gold SHowrm Glaze :p. Anyway thanks a million for the tips fellas (U guys r TOPS) Hope this thread will help out others who are having the same problems as me.

 

 
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