Lubricating Pad before polishing

**zzzzdoc** · 06-07-2007, 10:36 AM

What do you use to lubricate the pad before starting to polish with a new pad. I`ve tried GG Speed Shine, but it seems, perhaps, to water down the KAIO.

Any other suggestions?

Also, what`s the best approach for using a machine with paste wax. Do you hand apply the wax on an area first then buff with a PC with a grey or blue pad, or do you apply the wax directly to the PC pad. And what do you lubricate that pad with before using.

Sorry, newbie questions, but I don`t think I`m handling this right yet.

**JasonD** · 06-07-2007, 10:44 AM

I don`t spray my pads before using. A lot of people do, but I just never saw any improvement by doing so.

For waxes, I do everything by hand. It`s just easier, imo. If you really want to use a pc, try to apply the wax directly to the pad any way you can, apply, then either remove by hand or cover a *clean* pad with a mf bonett for removal.

**joshtpa** · 06-07-2007, 10:44 AM

WIth KAIO I would not lube it up with anything. With actual polishes, I use XMT pad conditioner, but a reg QD will work fine.

As far as using machine with paste wax, many use a butter knife and spreak. I simply do it by hand. But a lot of people use a butter knife.

Dont worry Alan, once you get the hang of it, no problems from there.

**kleraudio** · 06-07-2007, 10:45 AM

Hey Alan, they make pad lubricants specifically designed for this sort of application. Autogeek has what they call the XMT pad conditioner. CMA which is local to us, sells a pad lubricant called the black baron. Jon from CMA had nothing but good things to say about this stuff. I bought a bottle but havent used it yet. He said it works with both water and solvent based polishes. If you have time, you should swing over there and pick some up. It`s like 10 bucks.

I apply all paste waxes by hand. Its so much easier than working the paste out of the can, rubbing it on your pad, etc, etc...

I just stick an applicator in the can and apply to the paint. For me its much easier and more convenient than machine applying this stuff.

If you are stuck on using the machine to apply paste wax, use a blue or black pad, take the pad out of the container, wearing latex gloves, and just rub the brick of wax on the pad making sure you have adequate coverage on the pad. You dont need any lubricant for the pad if the whole pad is covered with a layer of wax. Apply it at speed 2 or 3 and let it haze and buff off.

Hope that helps

Jim

**zzzzdoc** · 06-07-2007, 11:09 AM

Not sure how easy it would be to get the paste out of the can. Sounds impressively messy, and should it hit the ground - bye, bye. I like Josh`s idea of a butter knife, actually. Gotta try that.

I`ve been applying the paste wax by hand. but was wondering if there would be a benefit in doing it by machine.

Do you also buff off by hand, or using a bonnet on a PC?

The Souveran can says that you don`t have to wait until it hazes. Is there any advantage to waiting. Does it matter at all?

BTW, where`s CMA located? Web site?

**JasonD** · 06-07-2007, 11:19 AM

Most waxes pop out of their container fairly easily when new, but once you start using them, they kind of form themselves to the container, and don`t like to come out anymore.

I apply and buff all by hand, and don`t see any significant benefit to using a machine for this particular process.

You don`t have to wait for waxes to completely dry. It has been determined (by various members of Autopia) that you get the same results with removing wax almost immediately after you apply it, that you would if you let it sit for a while and dry completely. One thing that is definitely different is how easy/hard the wax is to remove if you let it sit for a while. Removing it immediately after applying it makes it a lot easier to remove. This is the only way I apply waxes anymore.

Classic Motoring Accessories - Car Buffers, Car Waxes, Car Polishes, Car Covers, Car Accessories

**zzzzdoc** · 06-07-2007, 11:20 AM

Wow. Thanks. Nice tip.

**kleraudio** · 06-08-2007, 08:13 PM

Dookie, Does the wax have time to bond to your finish if you dont let it dry. I realize the dried parts of wax you see left over is the wax that isnt bonded to your paint, but I would imagine it need at least a little time to bond??

Does it bond the moment it is applied then? That would be nice!

Jim

**kleraudio** · 06-09-2007, 11:33 PM

Anything Dookie? This is a very interesting point you bring up about removing waxes immediately, I would like to know more as I would definitely adopt this technique if it really does hold true.

Jim

**BigAl3** · 06-09-2007, 11:52 PM

i also don`t spray my pads before polishing. apply some product to the pad, smear it around on the finish, and spread it around on 3-4 on the PC, and then crank it up. i use 4" pads to apply paste waxes, and it works great since i`ll i have to do is dab it a few times in the tin and then apply it to a panel. i`ve done 2 cars with one of my new tins, and it looks like i barely took any off the top layer. not to mention... one tin will last a looong time!!! more reason for me to buy paste than liquids...

**codiddy** · 06-09-2007, 11:53 PM

Originally Posted by joshtpa

WIth KAIO I would not lube it up with anything. With actual polishes, I use XMT pad conditioner, but a reg QD will work fine.

As far as using machine with paste wax, many use a butter knife and spreak. I simply do it by hand. But a lot of people use a butter knife.

Dont worry Alan, once you get the hang of it, no problems from there.

Klasse AIO and SG love a pad (a bonnet in the case of SG) misted with acrylic spritz from sonus, in my experience.

**JasonD** · 06-10-2007, 09:14 AM

Originally Posted by kleraudio

Dookie, Does the wax have time to bond to your finish if you dont let it dry. I realize the dried parts of wax you see left over is the wax that isnt bonded to your paint, but I would imagine it need at least a little time to bond??

Does it bond the moment it is applied then? That would be nice!

Jim

Sorry for the delayed reply, I`ve been very busy lately.

Anyway, yes, the wax has time to bond. Basically, from the tests that were done, all of the wax that is going to stay does so all within the first minute or two. After that, all that`s left is what you would end up removing anyway.

There were extensive discussions over this topic a couple years ago. If you`d like to view those discussions, dig deep and you should be able to find them.

Bottom line is, apply it, let it sit for a minute or two (should dry to a very light haze, nothing heavy) and then remove it. I do this panel by panel, and have the very same results as when I let it partially cure for 30 minutes or so, and it is *way* easier to remove.

**kleraudio** · 06-10-2007, 05:22 PM

Sweet thanks Jason, thats gonna be my new technique from here on out then. Im not going to dig through the forums, I will definitely take your word for it.

I hate working up a sweat buffing off particular waxes, this is gonna be fun.

Thanks for the awesome tip!

Jim

**JasonD** · 06-10-2007, 06:37 PM

No problem, Jim. Glad I could help. Ever since this was figured out, it has been the only way I apply waxes. It saves a lot of time, and effort!

If you ever get curious, testing this method doesn`t take much at all. Just do half of a panel my way, and half of a panel the "traditional" way, and see if you notice any difference.

**Todd@RUPES** · 06-10-2007, 06:56 PM

You have to be careful with what products you use with which mist. Meguiars and 3M, from my experience are pretty oily, and if you mist the pad with water you get nasty clumps.

Menzerna and ZPC are water based, and work great with a water mist.