wool pads better than heavy cut foam pads?

**Dairyman** · 04-23-2007, 10:50 PM

i was reading ont he forum that wool generates less heat than heavy cut foam pads. when is it appropriate to use wool? thanks in advance

i have only been using foam even with intensive polish would i get better results if i had wool pads what are some good ones to buy?

**wannafbody** · 04-23-2007, 11:09 PM

Edge makes nice wool pads. Care needs to be used with wool cutting pads and several steps are needed to to remove their swirling. I`d only use them for bad etching.

**todd@bsaw** · 04-24-2007, 02:12 AM

I very seldomly use my wool pads. In the last month, I`ve used it twice. Once for a heavily oxidized black car and once for some deep scratch removal (woman likes to set stuff on top of her car). Both instances I used a compound on the wool, then had to clean it up with a heavy polish on a cutting pad, then a fine polish on my orbital.

Oh, and I`d never use a polish on a wool pad. Only a compound.

**imported_rydawg** · 04-24-2007, 08:37 AM

for heavy correction I use wool pads with excellent results as most of you know. The biggest and most important thing with wool is what polish is used. I use Presta 1500 polish, Ultra cutting creme light, or Presta swirl remover to get the results I am looking for as a starting deep gloss base and then finish with a foam and a finish polish. You could also use OP or OC on wool.

I would not use IP on wool. It`s designed more for foam and likes to bind wool and will ruin the wool pad.

The only time I use compound on a wool is unless the presta 1500 polish will not cut it. I only have experienced this on a couple of vettes and some other rock hard clears with heavy defects. Other than that using a cleaner polish like Presta as a cleaner lube and let the wool pad do the work. Process is quite rather simple and the best thing is it works Amazing!

I have been using this technique for 15 years with superb results. I do have a couple of click and brags of the black cars I have done. That black Pontiac I did was way beyond a job for foam and was a multi repaint with severe fading and was in need of some heavy color blending. Presta Swirl remover and a wool glided over the car nice and worked with me and I was in control without removing any paint. I actually cleaned what was there and deep cleaned and smoothed the paint to a bright gloss.

The rotory/wool hologram trail marks remove easily with a finish polish and foam polish/finish pad by rotory or pc.

This is a tested and tried technique I have used on thousands of cars with great success!

Hope this helps!

Ryan

**imported_WCD** · 04-24-2007, 06:28 PM

We did a test at PrepExcellence and the foam pad built up heat much quicker than the lambswool. There are different wool pads-4 ply and so on. Some are NOT meant to ever work on clears. I was surprised at the results of the foam vs. lambswool.

That said, the other day I used the lambswool vs. a black foam polishing pad with my Makita at about 1200 rpms. The lambswool left more swirls than the foam by far. Both removed the webbing and other marring very well, but the foam did an overall better job.

I`d like to use lambswool more because I personally like how wool moves across the paint vs. the foam.

Rob

**imported_Totoland Mach** · 04-24-2007, 07:09 PM

I started using wools pads on almost every BMW I get at the shop in the last month. I took some pointers from an older gentleman (even older than me...now that`s old) and now I can finish down wool to the point where you could go straight to wax. It takes a lot of practice and I use 3M Extra Cut on most of the work. I do a portion 2x2 or so at a time and work the 3M (applied sparingly) until the finish is at gloss levels. Prior to this learning experience, I would blob a bunch of compound, and work it to a swirl level. Then I would use a foam pad to remove the swirls left by the wool.

The other bit I learned was keeping a wool pad super clean and not using too much product!

By the way, this gentleman works in the paint reconditioning department at the BMW plant in South Carolina and has been a wool user for many, many years.

Toto

**imported_WCD** · 04-24-2007, 07:31 PM

keeping the pad clean is key...I clean it 2-3 times while doing a hood and about 5-6 times over a car. I was told that many do not do this and that is reason for swirls. Also, too much product. I now use much less and get a lot less splatter and work the product longer until a mirror like shine is there. I am still practicing as always- bought 2 saw horses and will soon get parts from the local junk yard.

rob

**BlackElantraGT** · 04-24-2007, 07:44 PM

For those that have the wool pads that came with their Makita, would you use the supplied wool pads and the supplied backing plate or would that be better suited for something else?

**SVR** · 04-25-2007, 12:18 AM

What about clearcoat thickness after traditional wool and a 1000 grit leveler

**David Fermani** · 04-25-2007, 04:03 PM

Originally Posted by Totoland Mach

I started using wools pads on almost every BMW I get at the shop in the last month. I took some pointers from an older gentleman (even older than me...now that`s old) and now I can finish down wool to the point where you could go straight to wax. It takes a lot of practice and I use 3M Extra Cut on most of the work. I do a portion 2x2 or so at a time and work the 3M (applied sparingly) until the finish is at gloss levels. Prior to this learning experience, I would blob a bunch of compound, and work it to a swirl level. Then I would use a foam pad to remove the swirls left by the wool.

The other bit I learned was keeping a wool pad super clean and not using too much product!

By the way, this gentleman works in the paint reconditioning department at the BMW plant in South Carolina and has been a wool user for many, many years.

Toto

Amen. I use wool on as much as possible. Proper technique is a must or you`ll be creating lots of extra work. I know a guy that can actually single step with a brand new wool cutting pad with medium duty compound and not leave single swirl on a black car. Amazing. Wool is another reason why I would never consider using a PC for defect removal.

**Changeling** · 04-25-2007, 04:16 PM

WOOL question:

No experience!

I purchased some Edge single sided wool pads, the quality is a "LOT" better than a wool pad I received from AG. All are "Velcro"!

However, they are so much more "Volumious/THICK" than the other wool pad, I am at a loss as to how much of "product to use? I mean the volume is like night and day difference. I assume I can spray these pads with some water/quick detailer and then add the "polish" but, how much? The pictures show a dab about the size of a quarter, however is that enough for these ultra plush wool pads?

Changeling

**tom p.** · 04-25-2007, 04:56 PM

Double-sided Presta:

**Tralfaz** · 04-26-2007, 10:43 AM

What type of wool pads are you using that you don`t leave any swirls? I`m assuming they are a very light cut, fine, wool pad?

Thanx

**imported_Totoland Mach** · 04-26-2007, 10:53 AM

Originally Posted by Tralfaz

What type of wool pads are you using that you don`t leave any swirls? I`m assuming they are a very light cut, fine, wool pad?

Thanx

Yep: 3M`s light cut fine wool pads. The only downside is shedding when new and after they are washed....worse than my dogs!

Toto

**Tralfaz** · 04-26-2007, 11:32 AM

I`m thinking I`ll pull them off the shelf and give them another go. Probably play with them on some moderate hard water etching on some glass and see how quickly they clear that up. Kinda of scares me to use them on the black bimmer though. Maybe I`ll try them with a light cut on the roof and see what happens.

What are you using for a compound with yours totoland?