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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    I have finally gathered everything I need to wetsand paint imperfections and protect the paint from the elements. Now I`d appreciate a little advice on what order and combinations to use these pads, buffers and polishes to polish the paint on any car to perfection:



    Pads:

    - D2D Edge Classic Green Light Cut (R)

    - 3M 2+2 Superbuff (R)

    - PC Factory Polishing Pad (DA)

    - Meguiars High Tech Applicator Pad (H)

    - Cotton Applicator Pad (H)

    - Microfiber Towels (H)



    Buffers:

    - (R) Hitachi Rotary 0-3400 RPM

    - (DA) Porter Cable 7336SP Random Orbit 2,500-6,000 OPM

    - (H) My Hand



    Polishes:

    - 3M Rubbing Compound

    - 3M Finesse-It Finishing Material

    - GS27 Scratch Remover

    - Farecla G3 Advanced Liquid Compound

    - Farecla Machine Glaze

    - AG Super Resin Polish

    - Auri Polymer Polish

    - Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze

    - Meguiars #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax

    - Zymol Cleaner Wax

    - Mothers Cleaner Wax

    - Mothers Pure Carnuba Paste Wax



    ...Thank you in advance...
    Learning How To Detail the Eco-Friendly Way

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
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    Sorry, but I`m not familiar with most of the stuff you mentioned. On the stuff I do know something about:



    The pad that came with your PC- Don`t use it on your paint. I threw mine away but some people use it on shower doors/etc.



    Cotton applicator pads- I don`t use them.



    3M RC- There are a lot of different ones, hard to tell which you have. I`d use it by rotary at around 1200-1500 rpm.



    3M FI-II- Might be good to use after the above RC, with the rotary and/or the PC.



    Autoglym SRP- Use with the PC at speed 4-4.5 with a mild polishing pad and/or by hand.



    Meg`s #7- Use by hand on vehicles you did *not* use the above SRP on.



    Meg`s 326- Use by PC/hand as your LSP.



    Zymol cleaner wax, Mother`s waxes- No need for these if you have the SRP and the #26 IMO.



    Oh, and I`d be mighty careful doing any wetsanding. About 99% of the time if I can`t get a problem out with something like the 3M RC and the rotary I live with it. Be sure to do your wetsanding with some Unigrit brand paper (yeah, it *is* that much more uniform) and get the sanding scratches out with the RC before going to a milder product. But again, I`d skip the wetsanding and keep the clear nice and thick if it were mine.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    so...

    1) 3m superbuff on Rotary w/ Farecla G3 or 3M RC

    2) Edge light cut on Rotary w/ 3M FI-II

    3) Edge polishing pad on PC w/ SRP or Machine Glaze

    4) 26 by hand
    Learning How To Detail the Eco-Friendly Way

  4. #4

    Join Date
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    OK, but you might very well need an additional (abrasive) polishing step (with the PC) after that FI-II by rotary. I`m sure I would.

  5. #5

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    how bout FI-II on a blue edge on the PC?
    Learning How To Detail the Eco-Friendly Way

  6. #6

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    As per our PMs (in case others might benefit from this thread), it`s gonna depend on the paint and its condition. Maybe that`ll work, but FI-II might be too aggressive just as FPII could be too mild. Optimum comes to mind as a good middle ground.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Yah ive been considering buying some OC and OP but Ive havent really got to it because the fact that I need to use my parents credit card to order it, so up to now Ive just used stuff I can buy with cash at local auto parts stores. Ive considered a couple of the Meguiars Compounds and Polishes at the local stores but I figured the FP-II was pretty much what I needed.
    Learning How To Detail the Eco-Friendly Way

 

 

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