Carpet Stain that you had to just let go

[Travlinlght]

I`m a plumber and have piped many air lines. 2" steel in industrial applications etc. I wouldn`t recomend PVC either. They could fail at the glue joints. If your pull on the line a bit too hard you could brake the pipe or fittings. I Would use steel or copper. If you do decide to use PVC I would make sure the line is clipped or secured every few feet.

[Redcar GUY]

nice set up man! Also great tips too

[Tiger88]

Hey Ultgar, it looks like your garage could give Recar Guy a run for the money. :up

[Redcar GUY]

Originally posted by Tiger88

Hey Ultgar, it looks like your garage could give Recar Guy a run for the money. :up

LOL you should see some of his "work" it is unreal!

[Colin]

That garage is NICE!!!



Colin

[Bobby G]

If you`re planning to use PVC, do not use SCH 40, use SCH 90. When you glue your fittings, sand the joints with 100 grit emery cloth, apply a PVC primer, then apply PVC hot glue to both parts. Put the parts together immediately and give the pipe a 1/4 turn.



You need to clamp/support the PVC pipe every 54-60 inches in vertical runs and every 36-40 inches in horizontal runs.



It would be better to use 3/4" PVC because it holds a larger volume of air and the pipe is more stable. The larger pipe will improve air delivery and allow more than one tool to be used at once.



db

[getfit74]

PVC for air is a NO NO in my book. PVC can get brittle especially in a garage enviornment. Go with 1/2 inch copper, its not all that expensive and will last forever.

[wlhump]

I agree with all of those above who say don`t use PVC for air lines. Years ago I worked in a finish lumber mill that ran some temporary air lines in PVC. Under only 110 psi air the line burst and shattered sending small bits of sharp PVC everywhere. This is on top of an unsupported 4 foot long "jet engine" whipping around! (Industrial compressors have more than enough capacity to keep feeding a wide open line at full volume and pressure).



Don`t think I would want to have been in a small enclosed i.e. garage space when that PVC line burst! :scared Copper is not that much more expensive, takes only a little skill to solder and should be much safer.

:xyxthumbs

[imported_wendell jarvis]

After a 12 hour detail today....I came across a stain in the interior carpet that I could not get up......the owner (Lexus RX350) just recently purchased never noticed the stain because the dealership had plastic wrap on the carpet...I have been able to remove Coffee,Tea, Lipstick Crayons etc......but after working on this stain for a good 45 minutes I eventually gave up.....it must have been some kind of fluid or something......has this ever happened to you? where you just had to let it go.....I strive for perfection and hated that it was still there, I used Folex, Megs APC+ even Dawn and Vinegar and Club Soda......nothing removed it

[bmw5541]

There are certain stains (especially on the drivers side), that you just can`t get up. I just did a 3 day detail this week, where there were a few stains that just wouldn`t come out, no matter what I did. You just need to explain the situation the customer.

[imported_wendell jarvis]

There are certain stains (especially on the drivers side), that you just can`t get up. I just did a 3 day detail this week, where there were a few stains that just wouldn`t come out, no matter what I did. You just need to explain the situation the customer.

Oh I explained to the customer...that was easy....its just I dont like being defeated....and that stain won....lol.........

[imported_Flash Gordon]

Cut a template of the area using newspaper. Go to Automotive Paint/Uphoulstery supplie house and get a can of aresol carpet dye. Hold the paper around the area and spray to match

Be sure and have a fan ready to hit the overspray out the side door. Also, cover doors, seat, dash, console, woodgrain windows etc... with old bed sheets or tape up with butchers paper to prevent overspray from infecting those areas