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  1. #31
    AMG Classic Car Detailing Old Pirate's Avatar
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    Leather Master`s : Leather Cleaning system ,this Cleaner will clean the surface without affecting the leather`s finish at all. The Remover deep cleans and can remove the finish if applied too aggresively. so be careful not to go crazy on it. Leather Protection Cream is a water based protector for all leather types except Nubuck! This product should be use on a proper maintain leather at least 2 times a year. I would like to say the I haven`t use the whole system but had use two of their products, which IMO works very well on alot of types of leather.

    Now on to Leatherique........
    This is the best system I have seen to date and to tell you the truth, there are some more out there that I would like to try out on leather.
    The Leatherique system is just the opposite. You apply Rejuvenator Oil first which conditions the leather and forces dirt and grime to the surface. Then you wipe the leather with Leatherique Prestine Clean cleaner to remove all the oils and junk brought to the surface amazing product this is. It`s been around a very long time.
    If your looking for a started leather cleaning kit, then this is the one. Then to maintain your leather you can go with leather masters or use Blackfire High UV Leather Condition for maintaining your leather. One final word on just don`t not use Blackfire on perforated leather as it could clog the pores in leather and do not use on any napped leather`s like a suede type. But also remember any product can clog pores in the leather, so a very small test area is needed to be sure.
    AutopiaForums is the place to be.
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  2. #32
    AMG Classic Car Detailing Old Pirate's Avatar
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    If there are more information on more Leather products out there I would love to see it posted here, I`m always willing to read about them and maybe trying them to. I just don`t have too much leather cleaning to do these days. (customers cars). I know some of you have try alot more products then me so please posted it............Thank you Sleep
    AutopiaForums is the place to be.
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  3. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Clean View Post
    Care to compare/contrast the two offerings?
    Leatherique is more of a restoration product. The LM products are used for normal maintenance.

  4. #34

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    Leather Master is the best! I also have some others that work quite well - 4*, Zaino leather in a bottle, Surf City Garage...

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by akimel View Post
    From the stuff I have read on the net, I am persuaded (rightly or wrongly) that water-based products are best for finished leather. Once one has made this determination, then the field narrows considerably. I am currently using Leather Master products.
    +1


    After ready the info about protected leather I decided to try some LM too. :wink:
    Rasky`s Auto Detailing

    Quote Originally Posted by Auto Concierge View Post
    That finish is "brill" (british slang for tightness) as in "BRILLIANT" great clarity and gloss!!.

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by blk45 View Post
    Leatherique is more of a restoration product. The LM products are used for normal maintenance.
    Just as I surmised, with the exception of the Vital LM product whose marketing does seem to imply that it is more targeted for restoration.

  7. #37

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    keep coming back to Leatherique

    I have tried Sonus - I just bought some Meguiar`s Gold spray to use in between Leatherique applications, although I have not tried it yet. I should say that my leather is 22 year-old Benz Blue. I plan to get a dye kit from Leatherique to repair all of the worn spots. Leatherique is indeed time consuming, but it`s restorative properties fit the bill for me. :thumbup:

  8. #38
    TOGWT
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    Quote Originally Posted by CamoZ71 View Post
    I just meant i like cloth over leather, personal preference, leather makes my back sweat for some reason.
    It may be the polyurathene covering protecting the hide as opposed to the leather that is causing your back to sweat

    You can test wither or not it?s a protected leather; by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres` orientation). If this has little effect it?s protected. If water ?beads? on the surface, then it is probably covered leather. If it soaks in, then it is probably Aniline finished leather.

  9. #39

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    I like duragloss conditioner.

  10. #40
    TOGWT
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    To identify the material used;

    (N-Nubuck / Alcantara?) (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) (P-Protected / Coated)

    (a) Protected leather (P-Protected / Coated) - by slightly scratching it with your nail, if it changes to a darker / lighter shade, it is unprotected (i.e. how suede changes colour depending on the fibres` orientation). If this has little effect it?s protected. If water ?beads? on the surface, or if cleaners and conditioners remain on the surface. It is protected leather as liquids will not penetrate this type of leather; it will also have an even shine.

    (b) Natural leather (A-Aniline / Non-Coated) Aniline Leather is coloured all the way through with a transparent dye. The effect is applied by immersing the leather in a dye bath. Because the finish is transparent and shows the natural markings of the leather, only top quality hides can be used. It has a random shade colours and grain pattern; lightly scratch the surface to see if it reveals a lighter colour, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).

    (c)Nubuck, Alcantara? (N-Nubuck / Alcantara? ) - are top-grain cattle hide leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to give a slight nap of short protein fibres, producing a velvet-like surface. It is very soft to the touch will scratch or scuff very easily; water drops will darken the leather but it returns to its original colour after drying.

    (d) Nappa Leather (A-Aniline / Non-Coated ) ? a very soft, full grain (uncoated) leather made from an un-split sheepskin, lambskin, or kidskin, usually tanned with alum and chromium salts and dyed throughout, water drops will darken its colour (temporarily).

    (e)Vinyl - vinyl will have a much more even, almost repeating pattern. The depth of the lines within the grain on vinyl is also consistent, while the same lines on leather will vary; it is also usually smooth and soft to the touch, water drops will remain (unchanged) on its surface

    Many people are unaware of the fact that since the late ?80s early ?90s many of the newer domestic cars and some imports (US) do not use natural leather hides anymore. Approximately 90% of vehicle manufacturers have used (thermoplastic) urethane covered split hide leather for their interior upholstery. Vehicle leather upholstery is made from natural hides, chrome tanned and uniquely treated with a light pigmented water-based urethane coating or a vinyl covering to make it more viable for automotive seating.
    It retains the softness of natural top-grain leather but resists fading in direct sunlight, which besides body oil / salt is leathers worst enemy.

    The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in at the tannery, this is further sealed by a durable urthane covering or a water-based polymer pigmentation (colour) to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle?s AC system.


    An extract from one of a series of in-depth detailing articles ? TOGWT ? Ltd Copyright 2002-2008, all rights reserved.

  11. #41

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    Leather cleaner and conditioner

    I use Mothers leather cleaner and conditioner.

  12. #42

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    Man this is making me want to try out some of the leatherique! This isnt good since I just bout a gallon of the Meg`s detailer line cleaner conditioner. I might just have to sell this before I use any and get some leatherique! Agh to many products to try

 

 
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