Classic Mustang mold throughout interior

[DrKenNoisewater]

I recently acquired a late 60s Mustang that had a terrible mold and mildew problem. I removed the carpet, headliner, wind lace, dash pad, and various other rubber and fabric materials from the car. I haven’t yet removed the components and firewall insulation from under the dash, but that is to come. Basically, the interior is bare metal except for the seats and under the dash.

My problem is I have a mold allergy, and despite cleaning the seats and metal with spray mine and vinegar I still can’t go in the car without getting sick. The body is in beautiful shape, and this is a dream car for me, so getting rid of it is not really an option.

For all you pro retailers out there, what is the best way to clean an interior down to bare metal to kill all mold and allergens that might be hiding. I plan on replacing all the old seam sealer too since it’s cracking and falling apart. Is a steam cleaner the best option?

interior


Metal floor

Front

all pictures

[wannafbody]

CLR makes a Mold and Mildew Clear spray that doesn`t contain bleach. I think you can find that at a local WM or HD or similar store. That might work.

[Coatings=crack]

Clean the inside while bare and get new interior. If you have a strong allergy will be almost impossible to remove all.

If your going to try I would for sure get new seat foam and then heat extract fabrics and steam clean vinyl and leather.


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[Setec Astronomy]

What year is that? I could only get the first picture to work.

I would just caution, that unless that car was in a flood or someone left a window open, the most likely reason for the mold is a leak somewhere that lets the rain in. You need to find/correct that or all your remediation work will be for naught (unless of course in the future the car will be garage-kept and not driven in the rain, etc.). You say the body is in good shape, so it`s probably not rust around the fixed windows, but you have to check seals and weatherstripping. I had an old car I kept outside that I wound up junking because the carpet would get wet and the whole interior would get covered with mold (like it seems your door panel is), it was a long time ago but my suspicion was a fixed rear quarter window where the weatherstripping was all cracked, I vaguely remember caulking that, but I`m not sure that fixed the problem.

[Stokdgs]

DrKenNoisewater --
Welcome to the Forum !
I have had a few way newer vehicles in the PNW that had Interior mold but not the level your Mustang was in...

I went to a shop that sells all the big professional cleaning machines and they also sold professional chemical products for removing mold... I used them and always, always, always, wore a Respirator or a "3M" (only) N-95 mask... And it was still unpleasant... Went through a lot of them, as the mold clogs them up pretty fast when you disturb it into the air..

And used a good, big, Mytee hot water Extractor (HP60 Spyder), and a VX5000 Steamer from Vapor Systems LLC., Springfield, MO., and they turned out beautiful and mold-free..

Too much of that mold I believe, is harmful to your body.. It looks like you have lots of room, the car is all apart, and plenty of air movement...
Mold likes dark, moist, and a food source..., Eliminate those and it helps too..

Be careful... Good luck... Merry Christmas !
Dan F

[DrKenNoisewater]

What year is that? I could only get the first picture to work.

I would just caution, that unless that car was in a flood or someone left a window open, the most likely reason for the mold is a leak somewhere that lets the rain in. You need to find/correct that or all your remediation work will be for naught (unless of course in the future the car will be garage-kept and not driven in the rain, etc.). You say the body is in good shape, so it`s probably not rust around the fixed windows, but you have to check seals and weatherstripping. I had an old car I kept outside that I wound up junking because the carpet would get wet and the whole interior would get covered with mold (like it seems your door panel is), it was a long time ago but my suspicion was a fixed rear quarter window where the weatherstripping was all cracked, I vaguely remember caulking that, but I`m not sure that fixed the problem.

Its a 67. That’s a good point about the leak. All the weatherstripping/seals are shot. The car isn’t driven in the rain now, but it’s sat in a barn for over a decade before I got it, so who knows. I’m going to strip the seats down to bare metal and re-cushion and re-upholster, and replace all the other rubber/fabric/fiberboard/etc.

im wondering how I should go about cleaning the cavities of the doors where the windows recess, since I’m sure that’s where the water pooled and where the source of the mold started?

Here’s a link to all the pictures of the car: All pictures

[Dan]

Get a pet (snake) humidifier, fill it with Benefect or concrobium mold control. Or both (switch up, don’t mix). Both are EPA registered mold removers. None of the home potions ever worked for me.

Follow up with ozone and UV treatment. Also keep the car in an environment with less than 60 percent relative humidity after you treat it. If there is any undead mold, it will come back with moisture.

Last, I’d heat treat if possible. Over 130 degrees for 12 hours and it will all be dead.

Mold is a MF, it’s really resilient stuff, like a roach. One stomp on it isn’t enough.

[Setec Astronomy]

Its a 67. All the weatherstripping/seals are shot.

Can you get new weatherstripping? A long, long time ago, I briefly had a `66 that was rusted out, and I was surprised that you could buy replacement lower rear quarters (not from Ford). I just don`t know if someone is making those kind of replacement parts these days.

[Coatings=crack]

Can you get new weatherstripping? A long, long time ago, I briefly had a `66 that was rusted out, and I was surprised that you could buy replacement lower rear quarters (not from Ford). I just don`t know if someone is making those kind of replacement parts these days.

Late 60’s mustang…. They’ll be some re pop manufacturer to get them.

To clean in doors id’ pull door panels. I would actually pull all interior if you can. Blast every nook and crannie with steam and then heat to dry and then the mold killer.


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[Dan]

Another thing to think about, mold loves wood and cellulose. A few other things. While it is resilient as a roach, it needs food. The EPA has some good cleanup articles for homes but it all applies to cars or wherever the stuff grows.

[Cadfael]

Larry at Ammo NYC does some pretty gross interiors. Might watch some for inspiration and ideas. I replaced the interior on my ‘66 but that was in ‘85.

[salty]

I would ozone shock it. Then see if you can find any products around you that use Thyme oil as the active ingredient, yes the herb. Used for centuries. As Dan said Benefect Decon 30 is one product. Safe and effective. While i don`t care for the smell it isn`t harsh like Spray Nine.

[Lonnie]

I have an "economic" take on your dream 67 Mustang?
1) Even if you purchased it at a good price, what will it cost you to have it mold-free?
2a) It sounds pretty much like you want to do it yourself, BUT what investment will you need to make in terms of machine cleaning equipment and personal protective equipment to PROPERLY and SAFELY, respectively, to do it yourself?
2b) Would it be more economically feasible to have someone else clean the inside?
2c) What if I get REALLY sick from the mold; what are the health cost to my person? (IE; is it worth it to myself and family and/or can I afford that to happen?)
3) When replacing all the moldy interior parts, how will reproduction NOS parts affect the resale value?
4) What is my time worth in doing it yourself? (IE, do I have the time and the commitment to do so)

Economic realities have a strange way of presenting themselves half-way through any automotive restoration and good intentions may mask those realities in the end. I am WRONG, WRONG ,WRONG in saying you should not or cannot do this restoration yourself. I am just asking if you sat down and considered the cost; that`s all.

After looking at the photos, I can see your enthusiasm based on the outside appearance. BUT it is a sedan with an automatic and the engine I assume from the photo is a 289 V-8 and not the base 200 inline 6 cylinder. The red interior is a great color combo with the white exterior.
Good luck with this project anyway you choose to approach it.

[screamng]

I had a 66 with a similar issue. She was a garage queen never driven in the rain. I removed and cleaned everything but the mold would return regardless. Discovered that when I washed it water was leaking into the cabin providing enough moisture to keep things growing. Ended up there was a leak was thru the air vent that is just in front of the windshield. Common area to rust and allow water to leak into the car.