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This is why I was thinking about using the Metro Vac Sidekick. I don`t think it`s powerful enough to destroy a paper filter. Probably going have to where a dust mask when blowing out the filter.
I want to pick up a compressor but I don`t know what brand, or size tank to get. I already put in 20 Amp breakers, outlets already.
My Shop Vac lid rattles a lot when clamp on. When vacuuming sawdust I can see the dust coming out from the lid.How tight a seal are you after? Doesn`t yours seal up well? My Craftsman ones don`t seal as well as my dad`s old ?1950s? ShopVac did, but that was a monster of a thing like they don`t really make any more.
Even though Dyson claims a 31 ft cord I got a longer reach with my Shark.Note that the Dyson is...well, a Dyson. And the Shark is a recent release (if only because Shark Vacuums haven`t been around for decades..all relative). My Sears/Panasonic and Bissell units all have *MUCH* longer cords than any of my stuff from Hoover (not that I`ve ever measured them).
Since Shark been around for 16 years, they should know what there doing. My opinion, Dyson is better.
The wall mounted shop vac, is it mounted where it doesn`t have to be moved to vacuum, by using a long hose?My one shopvac is semi-permanently attached to a long 14Ga extension cord. Not *optimal* but sufficient..it`s been set up/used that way for over 20 years with no problems. The others aren`t used for years on end and I just plug `em in directly as they have pretty long cords. (If I`m picking up wet messes I generally use an extractor, all of which have really long cords.)
I looked at the vac yesterday there`s a sticker saying, 120 volts, 60 Hz, 8 Amps. I don`t know if this means anything.(BUT...I don`t know the draw of *you* shopvac and it might be very different from any of mine. When I run anything serious I do get out the 12Ga cord(s) or even the *big* ones made for things like washing machines.
The extension cord I`m using is a Coleman Cable Yellow Jacket, 14/3 by 25 ft. Home Depot website says 15 Amp max.
Just in case your wondering Shop Vac model number 85L450.
By looking at Shop Vac accessories online. It doesn`t seem like the Shop Vac brand are as popular as their once was.
What gauge extension cord do you use with the shop vac?
Are shop vac considered a larger motor equipment?
When use a large power equipment like air compressor, would you avoid using an extension cord and plug directly into an outlet?
I had a 6 outlet power strip go up in smoke while vacuuming, smell nasty. The store exchange it for a new one but told me not vacuum with the strip and not to over load the strip. The cord didn`t get warm/hot.Electricity produces heat going back and forth a bazillion times per second/minute/hour/etc.. That is why the electrical cords feel warm to hot when they are powering up that piece of equipment..
I even used a air conditioner on a 14/3, 4 ft appliance cord, but it got to hot for my liking.
How can I tell what gauge extension cord to buy for different power equipment? Do I look at Amp draw?
I`ve seen shops with extension cords all over the floor. The workers constantly tripping all over them. I ask one worker why don`t they duct tape them to the floor. The manager told the worker that had to pay attention where they are walking.I also never run longer than 25 feet of any extension cord + the length of the equipment I am powering up.. I also just do not want all these extension cords all over the Shop floor, getting in the way, getting stepped on, etc.., possibly damaging them, etc... Then, you have to pick them up and clean them, so they will be nice the next time you use them..
Well, I hope that works out OK...I can`t help but think "oh man, what a mess that could be!", but as I`ve been posting..hey, I`ve been wrong before
Glad to hear you have the 20A breakers! For the compressor, what I was thinking is that even a really cheap/[crappy] one is better than nothing when you just need to inflate/dust/blow out something. I never ask much of my little ones, but I`m really glad I have them. My big, permanently mounted Craftsman can run "real equipment", but IMO there`s no need to wait to buy some big "real compressor" setup since the little ones can be so handy.I want to pick up a compressor but I don`t know what brand, or size tank to get. I already put in 20 Amp breakers, outlets already.
I`d just get whatever HF has on sale for ~$40, a cheapie hose/blowgun set to go with it, and see whether my advice wasted your ~$45. I bet you`ll decide it was money well-spent, but I guess that`s easy for me to say
Oh goodness, I didn`t expect anything like that! None of mine have ever been that loose...My Shop Vac lid rattles a lot when clamp on. When vacuuming sawdust I can see the dust coming out from the lid...
No surprise that the Dyson is better, I still think of Sharks as a cheapie knock-off company (that`s *NOT* intended as a flame, they do build some good stuff these days, unlike when they were first getting started...
Even though Dyson claims a 31 ft cord I got a longer reach with my Shark.
Since Shark been around for 16 years, they should know what there doing. My opinion, Dyson is better...
And, heh heh...after only 16 years I still think of them as absolute newbies comared to, say....Hoover.
Sorry, I was unclear By "semi-permanent" I just meant that I keep it plugged in to its own extension cord all the time and never move it beyond that area of the house (it`s in the subbasement where I store the lawn/garden/etc. equipment). That *might* be a 50` extension cord, I don`t remember as it`s in a "winder" and has been like that for decades. It`s LONG though, and/but no problems running that vacuum...The wall mounted shop vac, is it mounted where it doesn`t have to be moved to vacuum, by using a long hose?
I do have a pretty long hose on it, connected sections that`ll reach pretty far. To compensate I use a narrow-opening nozzle when necessary (that probably makes the vac work really hard but again, no problems) but I take that off for leaves/etc. and it still sucks `em up OK.
Eh, I guess this is where I say "do as I say, not as I do" and recommend that you find that "what gauge cord?" formula so you can figure it out properly. I`d sure hate for "doing what Accumulator does.." to result in something awful...I looked at the vac yesterday there`s a sticker saying, 120 volts, 60 Hz, 8 Amps. I don`t know if this means anything.
The extension cord I`m using is a Coleman Cable Yellow Jacket, 14/3 by 25 ft. Home Depot website says 15 Amp max...
I oughta quit using "Shop Vac" as a generic term for my Craftsman Wet/Dry VacuumsJust in case your wondering Shop Vac model number 85L450.
By looking at Shop Vac accessories online. It doesn`t seem like the Shop Vac brand are as popular as their once was.
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Likes, 1 Thanks, 0 Dislikescarnage thanked for this post
I *vaguely* recall that happening to me when I was a kid, back in maybe the `60s/early `70s, but not in recent memory. So no, it`s simply not an issue with any of my numerous vacuums/extractors. Eh...lucky me, no explanation but I`ll take it
EDIT: maybe my hoses are long enough, and/or the vacuums heavy enough, that it doesn`t happen. Wracking my brain for an explanation...
Hello, Carnage !
I hope this finds you and yours well !!
I only use 12awg extension cords in the Shop for all equipment, including the Metrovac Vacuum, the Metrovac Master Blaster, the Steamer, and the Extractor.. I want the bigger gauge wire and the thicker insulation..
My small air compressor, which I only use for airing up the tires, etc., I use the same 12awg extension, because I have several of them and they are easier to use.. Because they are heavier, if they are wound up in large coils, they will uncoil easier and lay flat better.. For a bigger air compressor, it would only be best to use a heavier extension cord if you had to use one..
I would never use a 6-outlet strip anything... This puts all the heat on that strip and as you found out, it is the weak link and will be dangerous if it catches on fire...
No Air Conditioner should ever be run on 14awg or smaller wire... Notice how thick the electrical plug wire is from that machine?? Yeah, it is like that for a reason.. It Needs more juice to run and not overheat itself and implode on you.. Especially since this machine will run for hours on end cooling the room, right ?
The only adapter I have ever considered using to power up more than 1 machine on the same extension, would be this --
https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket..._browse-bin%3A
This is a 12awg adapter, but you still have to watch it, and not just trust blindly that it will never fail.. Especially if it is made in China..
It will always be best to have a few dedicated electrical circuits if possible, so that you can plug different items into each of these, and they run through 12awg wires directly to separate circuit breakers on the Power Panel..
If this is not possible, you have to be mindful of how many things are running on that 1 circuit breaker.. It will usually break the circuit if it gets overloaded, then gets too hot.. You don`t want this to be the normal ever..
Yeah, I have seen a lot of Shops with those extension cords all over the place !! Drives me crazy!! Eventually they all get damaged, the wires get creased, start to break, and then blows the breaker in the panel..
Then, they probably just throw the extension cord away and get a new one from the cabinet..
I will never do this ! But that`s just me..
Dan F
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I think the paper cartridge filter is kind of durable. It should survive the Metro Sidekick, hopefully. The paper filter that wraps around the foam filter, those might not survive compress air or the Sidekick.
My filter part number is 9030400 Type U. I don`t know how to post pictures yet. A Google search the part number should bring up a picture of the filter.
I was looking at a 25 to 30 gallons compressor, for air tools, plus other stuff.I`d just get whatever HF has on sale for ~$40, a cheapie hose/blowgun set to go with it, and see whether my advice wasted your ~$45. I bet you`ll decide it was money well-spent, but I guess that`s easy for me to say
I was planning on buying 1 compressor for everything. Then I thought about why should I turn on a big compressor for doing something small.
Does Shop Vac brand have a seal in their lid for any of their model? My precious Shop Vac had 3 clamps holding the lid on instead of 2 like today. I don`t know how good of a seal the extra clamp would make.Oh goodness, I didn`t expect anything like that! None of mine have ever been that loose.
I think the same about Shark, cheap knock off. Shark does stand behind their products. I had the vacuum hose crack twice on a Shark Rocket. They replace the whole head under warranty, no question ask. I had no problems when Shark was Euro Pro.No surprise that the Dyson is better, I still think of Sharks as a cheapie knock-off company (that`s *NOT* intended as a flame, they do build some good stuff these days, unlike when they were first getting started.
Hoover and Bissell been around for over a 100 years. Anyone in the vacuum manufacturing business is a newbie compared to them.And, heh heh...after only 16 years I still think of them as absolute newbies comared to, say....Hoover.
There`s no need to write sorry.
I was going to write if you`re using a long hose, if the performance is being effected compared to a shorter hose. You answered my question without me even asking.
I can`t find the formula online to figure out what extension cord gauge I`ll would need for a certain tool. A lot places are using chart, that are separating extension cords and tool into categories. Home Depot has "Shop Vac" into the 12/3 gauge cords.Eh, I guess this is where I say "do as I say, not as I do" and recommend that you find that "what gauge cord?" formula so you can figure it out properly. I`d sure hate for "doing what Accumulator does.." to result in something awful.
I`m guilty for doing the same thing. I capitalized the S,V in shop vac, meaning the name brand then using lower case lettering for generic term.I oughta quit using "Shop Vac" as a generic term for my Craftsman Wet/Dry Vacuums
Yesterday I went to a vacuum store. I can by hose by the foot in different diameter, length, as long as the ends can come off my hose. In my case the hose ends are permanently attached. He also mentioned that smaller diameter hose has better suction than larger hose according to his meters.
Thanks for the quick rundown on what you`re using.
The house wiring is from the 70`s. Back then each room will be on the same breaker, but only half the room. Then the other half of the rooms will be on another breaker. Everything is shared. I have about 3 to 4 circuit breaker controlling the whole house. My friend found 1 circuit over loaded. I had the panel updated with a 200 Amp main breaker. I added a couple 20A outlets throughout the whole house. It helps but I will still trip breakers.
The appliance cord I was using for the air conditioner is 12 AWG, my mistake. It`s a Ace Hardware cord.
The 6 outlet power strip I was using a Dirt Devil upright vac. The Ace Hardware store clerk told me these upright vac draws 13 Amps by itself. If their was anything else plug in I`ll be over the rated Amp/draw. Then a possible fire. He wasn`t surprise to see the strip all burnt, but he was nice enough to exchange it for me under warranty.
Now I`m using the new strip for my DVD player, cable box, clock.
With the Yellow Jacket extension cords the 14/3, and 12/3 both says max Amp 15 A. Do you know why the thicker (12/3) have the same Amps rating as the 14/3?
Do you feel comfortable using extension cords with large air compressor?
What brand name extension cords are you using?
The shops I see now the cords are tape to the floor everything is kind of neat, clean. I think insurance companies are forcing these shop to practice safety.
One aspect of this shop vacuum hose thread that seems to be important is suction and, hence, air flow. While trying not to get too technical about it, this suction amount is measured in inches of mercury or in/Hg. This measurement is derived by how far in inches the heavy liquid mercury can be moved up a tube when suction is applied to it. This is "different" than air flow, which is cubic feet per minute, or cfm and is how much air (cubic feet being volume) can be moved through a opening (orifice) in one minute of time. You have all seen pictures in vacuum cleaner advertisements of a particular make and model of vacuum cleaner being able to lift a bowling ball up. Suction is air flow, but in reverse, because it creates lift, hence the in/Hg measurement, with the Hg being kind of the weight part of it with how far a suction can lift it up the tube. There are four things that have an effect on creating this suction in a shop vac:
1) The power (horsepower) and speed (revolutions per minute) of the electric motor
2) The impeller mechanical design and housing that produces the actual suction
3) The filter media, which will limit the canister air movement and cause air resistance
4) The hose media and nozzle attachments, which also causes air resistance
There is a reason Dyson spent millions of dollars on design and trial-and-error development of item two: the unique and patented super-efficient lightweight impeller and housing design for a consumer vacuum.
The Metro has a more powerful and "robust" motor design, item 1, than most shop vacs, and its metal construction verses molded plastic canister and housing of typical shop vacs, but it is also the reason it is more expensive. You do get what you pay for, sometimes.
My long-winded point is that filter media is overlooked and keeping that clean to provide less resistance is sometimes forgotten, or the media type itself. I have Sears Craftsmen Shop Vac that can be fitted with thee different filter medias:
1) Standard paper (AKA, Original Equipment of Manufacturer that came with it
2) Upgraded paper for fine debris, like fireplace ash
3) HEPA-grade media for ultra-fine debris, like sheet rock particle board dust
With each "upgrade" in a filter media, the more resistance in air flow it creates, and hence its reduction in suction. I "learned" this from a HVAC service tech, who informed me my allergen-rated furnace filter will greatly reduce my furnace fan motor life due to its higher air-restriction because of the finer media needed for its allergen rating.
I use the"upgraded paper" filter on my Shop Vac because I deal with dried clay debris or home construction debris in the carpets of vehicles I clean, so it is not sucked through the filter and exhausted into the air in my garage when vacuuming. Its a small trade-off I am willing to live with. With that, though, I do try to keep my filter clean as possible. I clean it after every dirty job, if possible, even just knocking out the trapped dirt in the filter. The other thing I do is to wash (scrub and clean) the inside of the nozzle attachments periodically and the hose as well. If you use your shop vac as a carpet extractor OR vacuum when your carpets are damp, you probably have solidified mud in both the nozzle attachments and hose. While it may offer a minimal amount of air movement resistance, keeping your filter media clean and the hose and nozzle attachments clean can help contribute to optimal shop vac suction performance. (Which only proves that you REALLY are an Obsessive-Compulsive Detailer, Captain Obvious!)
Edit: I forgot to post this tip about keeping a filter clean when vacuuming a REALLY dirty environment, like dried clay silt after a flood or a lot of fine/short animal (darn cats and dogs!) hair, is to wrap paper toweling (like Bounty, but not the hard, brown or white hand toweling) around the filter, just enough to encircle the filter once and tape it on with masking or duct tape along the edges seam and then to the filter at the top and bottom. Yes, it restricts the air flow a lot, BUT it makes for easy clean-up of the filter. You may even find it necessary to put an new piece of toweling on should you do a lot of vacuuming. Just a hint that might save your from having to discard/throw-away a shop vac filter after such usage.
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Lonnie- You`re posting *so much* good info! I...assume...that people know a lot of things that they might not, and you`re bringing up a lot of that stuff in a very clear, informative manner.
Yes indeed, the right filter is worth figuring out/using. And IMO keeping the hoses/nozzles of extractors/wet-vacs clear isn`t OCD at all, just regular maintenance; flushing them out at the end of each job only takes a moment (I haven`t had to actually *clean* an extractor hose/nozzle yet, and I use mine a lot). Once you let [stuff] dry in them I bet it`s a huge PIA!
Heh heh, I`ll argue that one! Any time I miscommunicate I`m gonna consider whether it`s *my* fault, and that time I think it was. I set my Communication Bar awfully highOriginally Posted by carnge
Speaking of which I`ve gotten into the habit of capitalizing certain nouns rather than sticking with the proper generic/proper name conventions. No, that`s not a good thing..
And heh heh...yeah, my local vacuum shops will build hoses too, but like your place and "removable ends", there are always some little details that prevent me from getting exactly what I want..."oh, you want a power wire for the motorized attachment...sorry.."
Maybe my hoses don`t accordian-tug the units because they`re so old! I am pretty careful about not tugging on them too hard though, an expensive lesson related to my Daimer steamer made me awfully conscious of what can happen and with hoses for the older Hoovers N/A I gotta be very gentle.
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You`re inline with my thinking, Lonnie.
Last year, when I decided to by a smaller wet-dry vac for detailing, I searched the `net for specs to make my decision. The mfr`s publish HP specs, but that doesn`t really tell the whole story about performance. Example: One of the highest-rated 5 gallon units is the PowrFlite, from a company that makes commercial and industrial equipment, with only 1.4 hp, but 114 cfm and 100" lift. I know the Rigid units are popular, but I could never find either a volume or lift spec, so I kept looking.
Of all the brands I could find specs of, the highest numbers were on the Vacmaster Beast, at 102 CFM and 86" lift, at just about half the price of the Powrflite, so that`s the direction I went and I don`t regret my purchase at all. Ironically, the best price was from Home Depot, obviously home of the Rigids. Paired up with a Rigid Detailing kit, I`m set for a while. If it craps out tomorrow, I`ll still be debating value between it and a PowrFlite.
Bill
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For MORE info on a shop vac for the do-it-yourself weekend warrior, see the thread:
Vacuum for the weekender
In the above linked thread, post No. 23 from SuperBuick talks about an English (United Kingdom or UK) vacuum company named Numatic and their specific model "George" as his vac of choice.
Sorry, no links to Numatic due to forum rules, but it is worth Google-ing "Numatic George GVE370" for yourself. Expensive though and funky-looking; kind of like Mini-Coopers. Leave it to the Brits!
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