Wanted to check back in to avoid playing the role of the Disappearing OP.
So, after all the great recommendations, I ended up with a bit of paralysis by analysis for what to go with for my next high-lumen light. I also was able to remedy the battery situation with my little mighty-mite light so I`m no longer rotating batteries every 20 minutes of burn time. With a fresh set of batteries, I`m also able to add my back up flashlight (the other small but bright LED lenser) into active duty for those times I keep wanting to have 2 flashlights in action.
Ultimately, for a high lumen light, I`m leaning towards the BLF light mentioned earlier. I already have a battery and charger for it, so it`s a minimal investment for what looks like a nice light.
Also wanted to update - I got my little Milwaukee Rover pocket floodlight. Overall, I like it. I wanted to get this one after liking the light color, spread, and brightness from the Milwaukee underhood light I picked up not that long ago. I was hoping the little Rover would function as an inspection light for when I do PrePurchase Inspections to help look for signs of bodywork, but so far (at least in the middle of winter with filthy cars) it hasn`t panned out the best for that. On high the light ends up being too bright and widespread, not allowing things like paint imperfections and orange peel to pop like it does under the wide beam setting of my LED Lenser.
The Rover works really well for lighting up under the car when used with a pivoting magnetic flashlight holder (the 2 magnets on the light itself don`t always allow the best beam aiming based on the rapidly decreasing number of magnetic surfaces on cars these days). Also works really well for interior work; the side profile allows it to aim up a bit when laying on the floor which helps a lot. The TrueView light really does help wiring colors pop like they advertise.
I still need to try and share some pictures of the different lights and their beam patterns, but stupid work keeps getting in the way. (What`s with all these cars that need fixing?). It`s also a bit of a challenge as it seems like my phone keeps pulling out more detail in the pictures than you see in real life. I guess in a row of comparisons you`ll still get the general idea.
So - more updates as I can get them! Thanks again to all for the help.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikesnickclark08 liked this post
Oneheadlite- Ah, interesting about the Milwaukee...never *really* know until you get something and try it.
Wanted to check in again - Finally added another flashlight to the arsenal.
While I was originally looking to try something new, I ended up picking up a Coast HP5R from my Cornwell guy a couple weeks ago. So far I`m really happy with it.
Specs: 160 Lumens on high (though it`s brighter than it`s rating lets on), 19 on low. Strobe if that`s your thing. 4.875" long, just over 1" w at widest point. 2.6oz. Came with 2 (usb) rechargeable batteries, can plug in to recharge into the light or direct into the battery. Battery life for me has been great, I can get through a full workday or more of frequent use on high. Lens has slide focus that locks in place, going from wide flood to tight spot.
Fun part is: So far I`d say it`s the best light I`ve had for analyzing paint condition/defects. The combination of light temperature, brightness, and the slide focus make it incredibly easy to evaluate a good size area. Other lights have been too bright and just kinda blow it out, or have the wrong temp which just didn`t jive for defect spotting.
If I had to put any negatives to it, it`s just a bit fat at the lens end to comfortably have in your shirt pocket. I still end up doing it as rapid access to a bright light is important to me. Also, even with the locking slide focus, it`s easy to shift it a bit as you squeeze the light. Not a big deal once you get used to shifting your grip.
I`ll get some pictures up of it`s defect illumination when I get a chance.
Ah, that`s great!I know *exactly* what you mean about Inspection Lighting being too bright, but I can`t think of the TEMP/COLOR ever factoring in, at least not that I noticed. Hmm...am Imissing something? Yeah, I know how it matters for checking the color of the paint/matching when repainting, but not with regard to defects.
The combination of light temperature, brightness, and the slide focus make it incredibly easy to evaluate a good size area. Other lights have been too bright and just kinda blow it out, or have the wrong temp which just didn`t jive for defect spotting.
I`m no expert, Could be completely in my head. I guess I just associated the color/temp with the Milwaukee True View LED`s not working as well (for me) for defect spotting, even at a lower brightness setting. Maybe it`s a focus issue?
I need to try to get a bunch of pics and use the Tapatalk app to get some pictures up of what I mean.
Well, that *is* a valid factor IMO, you see something or you don`t (no matter what somebody else might see/not).
My SunGun is supposedly good color-wise *for matching* and it spots certain types of marring *great* but I never believed the two to be related. And it`s not all *that* great for some other types of marring or for texture (kinda funny given its bodyshop-use orientation).
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