Wetsanding

**ultrajim49** · 01-06-2003, 08:54 AM

Those who read my review of the BO6040 ( http://www.autopia.org/forums/showth...threadid=16906 ) know that I have a hood to test things on.

The center part was my test area for wet-sanding.I have never done this before, but learned a lot since then:up .

The sanding paper = Picture 1:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showp...papass=&sort=1

Picture 2: after sanding:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showp...papass=&sort=1

I let the sanding paper soak in plain water for a half hour.

With a sponge I wet the area to be sanded, as I was sanding, the surface dries, therefor I held a spritz-bottle with a soapy mix(just like claying) to wet the area again.

I folded the sandingpaper around a kitchen sponge to get a better grip and for better distributing the "force".

I think a rubber sanding block would have been better still, for a more even finish.

Picture 3:compounding:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showp...papass=&sort=1

After drying the surface you need to compound to get the sanding marks out: 3M fine cut with wool pad (Makita-wool pad)

As you can see there is a haze left by the compound.

Perfectly normal.

Picture 4: polishing:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showp...papass=&sort=1

To get the compounding haze out you need to polish: 3M machine polish, and Megiuars polishing pad

the apearance improves greatly.

Picture 5:glazing

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showp...papass=&sort=1

Glazed this hood starts to look like something "Autopian", allthough you can clearly see scratches wich go straight through the clear:sosad

Picture 6: the result after waxing:

http://www.autopia.org/gallery/showp...papass=&sort=1

After Meguiars Gold Class paste wax: shows that imperfections (scratches) are not hidden with waxing

That`s about the best I could get that hood

What have I learned?

I have learned that wetsanding isn`t something to be afraid off, providing you use the wright steps in the wright order, this is VERRY agressive , and will surely take alot of clear away, but sometimes something as abrasive as this might be nececeary(sp?)

Christiaan

**Lowejackson** · 01-09-2003, 10:21 AM

Excellent article :xyxthumbs

The before and after pics are amazing.

Steven

**ultrajim49** · 01-09-2003, 03:45 PM

Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay OT:

Hi , Lowejackson

Congrats on your 1000th post the night before your wedding:xyxthumbs

:bounce = for tomorrownight?

On topic: thanks for the heads up

Christiaan

**jerry@robs** · 02-17-2003, 04:43 AM

Great post dude...

I wetsanded my hood a year and a half ago and I love how it looks now...

**ultrajim49** · 02-17-2003, 04:53 AM

Looking mighty good:xyxthumbs

Christiaan

**AndreaBees** · 02-19-2003, 08:12 PM

cvcaelen: did you use your Makita orbital to conpound, polish and glaze the wetsanded areas? I always thought you needed a rotary to remove sanding marks.

theveed: where`d you get fine grit sandpaper here in the phils?

**jerry@robs** · 02-19-2003, 09:53 PM

Green: You can get them in car paint stores. Simex has them as well but of course they overpriced it a little, but it`s still cheap at P20 a piece... compared to the outrageous UniGrit papers.

**ultrajim49** · 02-21-2003, 02:09 AM

Originally posted by green

cvcaelen: did you use your Makita orbital to conpound, polish and glaze the wetsanded areas? I always thought you needed a rotary to remove sanding marks.

theveed: where`d you get fine grit sandpaper here in the phils?

Yes, I did,

the Makita has not the speed of a rotary, but with it`s forced rotation and a 750Watts motor(you can put pressure on the orbital) and some time, it works

Mind you, the hood was BNR(beyond normal repair

)but I could get the most of the scratches out.

The sanding marks were completely removed with the compound

Machine polisch could be buffed to a high shine.

If only the freezing would stop so I can give my car "the treatment"

Christiaan

**jerry@robs** · 02-21-2003, 02:18 AM

Originally posted by cvcaelen

If only the freezing would stop so I can give my car "the treatment"

Christiaan

Bah Chris... you`re hard core enough to treat your car even if the weather is chilly...

:xyxthumbs

**ultrajim49** · 02-21-2003, 02:27 AM

Originally posted by theveed

Bah Chris... you`re hard core enough to treat your car even if the weather is chilly... :xyxthumbs

minus 4 centigrade at noon realy is a tat too cold,

this week-end however we`ll have a heatwave:8 Centigrade :bounce

Christiaan

**ByndCln** · 03-05-2003, 05:36 PM

All I can say is wow :shocked .

Great step by steps, now I am tempted

Not that good yet though.

maybe on a beater

**imported_Kyle** · 08-01-2003, 09:00 AM

interesting thread!

I have lots of swirls that I couldn`t get rid of with DACP,#9+pc.

I wasn`t happy with the result of DACP and wondering if I should try wetsanding this time. Do you think it`ll work? I`m too scared to use wetsanding

**Gonzo** · 09-12-2003, 07:13 AM

Looky here:

http://www.sisweb.com/micromesh/mmr_sheets.htm

for super fine papers

**spetulla** · 12-01-2003, 11:56 PM

i just got two packs (25 sheets in EACH pack) of unigrit 2000 and 3000 for 20 SHIPPED from a guy on ebay who sells them. Might wanna look into that. I got mine so he is legit.

**madazskunk** · 12-02-2003, 12:13 AM

Originally posted by MildSeven

interesting thread!

I have lots of swirls that I couldn`t get rid of with DACP,#9+pc.

I wasn`t happy with the result of DACP and wondering if I should try wetsanding this time. Do you think it`ll work? I`m too scared to use wetsanding

Try using 3m medium cut compound. I have gotten good results with it and yellow pad on pc. This is the most aggressive product I have tried with the pc and it handles it fine. I don`t know how much more aggressive you can get with a pc but medium cut is not a problem at all.