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  1. #16

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    let`s see......



    <ul>
    [*]When you are going to use your orbital, and the pad you`re about to use is dry, mist on a little detail spray - regardless of what compound you`re going to apply. This will reduce friction, scratching and pad wear before the material distributes itself around the pad.
    [*]When you use leather creme, apply it with your bare hands. You can better work it into the seams and crevices, and your hands will feel great afterwards!
    [*]When you clean your glass, use horizontal strokes on the outside, and vertical ones on the inside. Later, when you `re suddenly in the right light and notice any streaks, you`ll know which side they`re on. (Can`t take credit for this - learned it from a fellow autopian.)
    [*]When you use swirl mark removers or FI-II, or for that matter any product that is likely to include diminishing abrasives, work it and work it and work it! In my experience, it takes the PC on 6, plus pressure (reduce over time) plus time - more than you think. The difference is very noticeable - especially on black.
    [*]Keep a cheap 2" paint brush in your car - does a great job of getting dust out of hard-to-reach corners.
    [*]Keep a MF towel and a little bottle of detail spray in the car too. If you ever come back to find bird poop on the car, get it off immediately.
    [*]Before you use ANY new product, ask about it HERE!
    [*]Towels, Water Blades, Dusters do not scratch paint.<font color=red> Dirt you move with them does.!</font> Your goal should always be "maximum benefit with minimal wiping", whether it is washing, drying or buffing. However you must know that the "boundary layer" phenomenon means you can not get all the dirt off in the first place without rubbing with something. A pressure wash only leaves a thinner layer of dirt - it doesn`t remove it completely.
    [/list]

  2. #17

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    Nov 2001
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    In the garage(Logansport, IN)
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    One of the best things I have learned is............





    Not to tell everyone my little tricks..............:nono





    Bwahahahhahahaa
    DEDICATED TO THE PURPOSE BEYOND REASON... Oakley ..

    Bill 97 Camaro SS #1422
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  3. #18

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Maitland, Florida
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    A good boom box in the grage will seem to reduce detailing time by hours.



    A small stool on wheels prevents backache.



    I put a red "*" on the cuff of the wash mit used for top panels.



    I use B lue MF for B uffing

    G reen MF for G lass

    W hite MF for drying after W ash.







    2002 Titanium SE Miata

    2006 Lexus RX350

  4. #19

    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    Originally posted by Intel486





    Just a question... why would you do this every day for a week? All the engines I have done I have been able to get clean the first time.


    depending on how dirty the engine bay is, you may not get it clean the first time without scrubbing. by doing this over the course of a week, you can get the same results, but not have to put in as much labor into it.



    after the first pass on my engine that wasn`t cleaned for several college years, it was about 75% cleaner. over the course of the week is was about 90-95% clean. as I sprayed with water, clumps of the grease and drit that were on the engine just washed off. It was pretty nasty to see but satisfying.

  5. #20

    Join Date
    May 2003
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    my tip is not what to do on a car, but prep for the car.

    Be sure you have all your supplies ready, spray bottels filled up and ready to go. Stay organized and know where everything is. Know the car you are doing and products that will be needed.

    dont rush the job or your work will reflect it. Take your time and inspect every panel once you complete it. Keep the radio on for background music, this will keep you moving, I know jason dances to "it`s raining men" every time he details.

    be sure to take a break, dont kill your self, take your time on the car and you will see results that will amaze you & the customer.

    that is my tip that i think will help everyone

  6. #21

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    Jul 2009
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    I`ve learned a lot from this thread! :up



    -- here are my additions --



    ~ Cut Swiffers into 2 or 4 pieces & keep in glove box for quick dash touch-ups



    ~ When doing a complete interior/exterior detail - do the interior first as you are usually too tired/hot/sweaty/dirty when you are finished with the exterior



    ~V4M~
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  7. #22

    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Ontario, Canada
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    To see how much product that has been used for each application I measure the overall hgt. of the bottle and divide it up by the number of ounces shown. A pencile mark at those increments will allow you to visualize usage.
    05_Dakota Laramie-Red

    04_Pontiac Vibe-Black

  8. #23

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Q-TIPS and TOOTH PICKS IN THE BACK POCKET for those hard to reach areas that wax gets stuck in. AFTER waxing go over the car with a very damp MF towel,gives you a better SHINE

  9. #24
    Autopia fire/rescue. DaGonz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    When you are buffing your car, protect your clean wheel assemblies from any spatter by covering them with plastic trash bags..I take 4 large trash bags (the 33 gallon size) and put a slit up the middle on one side..I find this covers the wheels beautifully and keeps them clean and easier to do the final details on later!



    I also mask off any trim with a good quality masking tape...5 to 10 minutes of taping saves hours of getting wax off of mouldings!



    Got any large boxes? Cut them into panels..they are great for keeping clean if you have to get under the car for any reason.



    I have four sections of flat cardboard that I drive onto when applying protectants to tires...it keeps the driveway clean (now if only my son would remember to use them )



    You can also make wheel masks...cut out a circle of the diameter of your wheels, and put two holes in the center of the disc to get a handhold. Cover both sides with duct tape to protect the cardboard. I use them when I apply protectants...it ensures that you don`t get any product on the wheels. I have them made up in 14, 15 and 16 inch sizes.



    When vacuuming carpets, play the "bongos" on them...beating on the carpets with your hands will bring up dirt and sand imbedded in the fibers...you would be amazed at what you can get out of a "freshly vaccumed carpet!"



    I just got a new pressure washer, and the garden hose connection is underneath the unit. I took a short section (6 to 8 inches of garden hose with the proper adapters for each end) and attached it to the double female connection on the washer..it makes hooking it up a lot easier!.
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  10. #25

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    My tip is either take the time and do it right, or don`t do it at all!



    Better leaving a car dirty then it is to do it half assed, such as washing it with a hose, then driving away. Or wiping the dirt off with no water or just water!



    I know you all know this, but I can`t tell you how many people in my neck of the woods do this! Only 1 person on my entire block besides myself washes his car. :shocked
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  11. #26

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    Mar 2009
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    Never detial in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivits, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.

  12. #27

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    Originally posted by medic





    depending on how dirty the engine bay is, you may not get it clean the first time without scrubbing. by doing this over the course of a week, you can get the same results, but not have to put in as much labor into it.



    after the first pass on my engine that wasn`t cleaned for several college years, it was about 75% cleaner. over the course of the week is was about 90-95% clean. as I sprayed with water, clumps of the grease and drit that were on the engine just washed off. It was pretty nasty to see but satisfying.


    Well lets look at it this way.



    10mins a day for a week. Lets just cut it back to a 5 day week. That is 50mins of work.



    In 50 minutes I would be able to spray the engine down, scrub everything lightly with a nylon brush, let soak for around 7mins, hose out throughly, dry with towel, dry some more by running engine, and then dress everything with a waterbased dressing.



    Better to get it all out of the way at once than have to mess around with it every day.



    Originally posted by Volvo4Me



    ~ When doing a complete interior/exterior detail - do the interior first as you are usually too tired/hot/sweaty/dirty when you are finished with the exterior



    Best tip I`ve seen so far. Took me four complete details to realize this! I also hate doing interiors so after doing my favorite part, buffing of the paint, I`m not really motivated to do the interior and have to force myself to pull out the vac.



    Originally posted by James A

    Never detial in clothes that have hard buttons, snaps, rivits, etc. No belts just cotton tee shirt and shorts that have a draw string or elastic.


    Also, if you are gonna be using a buffer, orbital or rotary, then wear old clothing. Even with an apron on I still seem to get buffing compound or wax on my shirt. GRRRRR
    2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L

    Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.

  13. #28

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    A quick disconnect coupling threaded on to the end of the hose makes it quick and easy to sheet the water over the car after washing. Applying AIO/SG on the wheels while they are off of the car allows you to clean them once they are back on using just your usual car shampoo instead of a wheel cleaner although this might depend on your wheel cleaning frequency as to how good it works. Using 5 gln bucket dollies makes it easier to move two buckets around during a wash.

  14. #29

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    Oct 2002
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    Originally posted by Intel486





    Well lets look at it this way.



    10mins a day for a week. Lets just cut it back to a 5 day week. That is 50mins of work.



    In 50 minutes I would be able to spray the engine down, scrub everything lightly with a nylon brush, let soak for around 7mins, hose out throughly, dry with towel, dry some more by running engine, and then dress everything with a waterbased dressing.



    Better to get it all out of the way at once than have to mess around with it every day.



    Agreed, if you`ve got the time. This was a tip to get the engine clean over a spread out time instead of all at once. You could even do this over weeks to get the same result since dirt and grime doesn`t build up in an engine bay too quickly. Or, you can do this process while waiting 20 minutes for the SG to set before buffing off. You have to reapply the SG the next day anyway, so just think of it as a joint process.



    Really, it`s just personal preference:nixweiss

  15. #30

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    Originally posted by medic





    Agreed, if you`ve got the time. This was a tip to get the engine clean over a spread out time instead of all at once. You could even do this over weeks to get the same result since dirt and grime doesn`t build up in an engine bay too quickly. Or, you can do this process while waiting 20 minutes for the SG to set before buffing off. You have to reapply the SG the next day anyway, so just think of it as a joint process.



    Really, it`s just personal preference:nixweiss


    think I finally get your point now. Good tip :up
    2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L

    Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.

 

 
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