When buffing off LSP, fog the surface with your breath. The little bit of moisture in the condensation is beneficial in several ways.
When buffing off LSP, fog the surface with your breath. The little bit of moisture in the condensation is beneficial in several ways.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikes4u2nvinmtl liked this post
Originally Posted by Accumulator
Until you pass out after doing half the car!
The best tip I have learned is to experiment with the products you have. You would be surprised how many uses a quality product if diluted at different ratios.I have been playing around with ONR a little bit it is amazing what you can do with just one product from glass to general interior clean up, somethings may need and extra wipe down. But you never know until you try, find a good product and learn what it can or can`t do.
Watch for a sale on a nailing compressor, the little ones that contractor use to power nail guns.
They are compact, they are 110v and small.
Put out 100psi and cost at most places, like Harbor Frieght $60 to $70, a $15 small 50 foot hose, a couple of quick couplers and a nozzle (might as well get one to fill tires as well) and save a ton over a couple of years.
Many uses will be found once you get one.
I have a big 80 gal tank, twin cyl 13cfm, 150 psi compressor for my shop, but use the little one when doing a car under the car port. They are not heavy, so easy to get out and use.
Grumpy
Originally Posted by loodi
There are plenty of body shop methods people wont want you to know, i think its stupid really.
Wetsanding by hand(this means blocking or freehanding), Like you said cut it, fold it to overlap so it wont come loose on you, and cross cut(Diagonal Motions) for maximum abrasion. Keep a spreader or squeege or air handy to get a visual, Constant flow of water is great for keeping it clean & avoiding pigtails, but its wasteful. Scuff pads work great for cleaning your grit paper wheter dry or wet.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Affordable/Mobile
Originally Posted by RaskyR1
Seriously? People do sometimes mention that, but I always figure they`re joking.
I mean...I did the Yukon XLD all the time and never thought anything of it :nixweiss
I assumed you were joking too!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RaskyR1- Heh heh, nah..I was serious! I really do fog the surface when I buff off my LSPs. Maybe it has something to do with how I find even KSG sooo easy to buff off :think:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
LOL...I think if my wife walked in the garage and saw me doing that she`d leave me!
What do you feel it adds?
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikes4u2nvinmtl liked this post
Originally Posted by RaskyR1
Heh heh, I bet Accumulatorette wouldn`t find that in the top ten of odd stuff she`s seen me do!
The little bit of moisture from the condensation seems to do a few things:
-Helps you see the LSP when you`ve applied it *really* thin
-Provides a little lubrication to make the buffing towel glide better
-Gives a tiny bit of...uhm...spit-shine-like effect, probably helping minimize streaking/etc. which I basically never experience
No, never experienced any downsides from that bit of moisture.
I really do think it`s beneficial; every time somebody says how KSG/FK1000P/476S/[whatever] is a little hard to buff off I wonder what they`re talking about as I`ve never experienced that even with goofy-thick applications allowed to dry for a long time.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikes4u2nvinmtl liked this post
Don`t chew gum, while brushing the carpet, with an open mouth. LOL
Coffee filters make great, cheap, lint free wipes and they work fantastically on glass and mirrors. They only cost a couple of bucks for a hundred or more, so its easy to keep them in the shop. I`ve also used a coffee filter and an iron on low heat to remove melted crayon from interior carpet and upholstery. Just place the filter over the waxy mess then run a low heat iron over it. The filter should wick up most of the waxy crayon.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikes4u2nvinmtl liked this post
Mr. Clean Magic Erasers work for getting wax or polish residue off of textured black plastic.
Of course, taping the trim makes it not get on it at all.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikes4u2nvinmtl liked this post
Just went through the whole thread, some great tips thanks guys!
Just wanted to mention that IMO when at the "2 bucket wash" part of your wash you should wash the car form the top down. So start with the roof, front and rear windshield (rinse), then rear trunk/hatch down to top of bumper and all side windows (rinse), then hood and front fenders (rinse), now the doors and rear quarter panels (rinse and repeat for the other side), now the rear bumper (rinse), and finally do the front bumper. IMO the front bumper is where the most dirt and contaminates will be and I wouldn`t want it done first because you are more likely to carry the particles along for the rest of the wash causing scratches.
Note: 9/10 times I am washing coupes (my own coupe or customers) sedans may need more rinses down between panels........just a judgment call I guess
When cleaning/conditioning - Never use a stiff bristle brush on a fabric convertible top. It will tear the fibers.
“Any man who can drive safely while kissing a pretty girl is simply not giving the kiss the attention it deserves.”
~Albert Einstein
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks