The PERFECT Drying technique

**imported_doug** · 12-04-2001, 10:24 AM

Ng - I think you can find them on the Meguiar`s site - http://www.meguiars.com

peterbum - I promise to try MT - I haven`t yet. I generally say nothing about stuff I have not used. I don`t claim my way is the only way, just a way that works. I am not sure whether "plushness" has any real advantage in buffing - the UW`s are certainly soft enough and do a great job. However I`d certainly like a towel that was a little softer than the drying towel I use. Do you use Miracle Towel for both drying and buffing?

Thanks...

**vettefan67** · 12-04-2001, 03:43 PM

Hey carguy. I use the sheeting method to get most water off of the car and then follow up with an absorber, followed with an MT quick detail to get any leftover water. MT`s are great for absorbing but don`t work quite as well when they are loaded with water. For this reason I usually pick up visible water and QD, then wiping gently with another MT.

I use MT`s for QD and buffing of light coats of product and Charisma towels for buffing of thicker coats of products. I do this really gently and then follow up with an MT.

**CJ from Granite Bay, CA** · 12-05-2001, 06:02 PM

This type of technique works well. I have been doing the same thing for a number of years. It sure cuts down on the amount of water that needs to be wiped off. One thing, you want to make sure the male end of the hose is made of plastic. This will protect the paint from being chipped in case the hose end hits the paint by accident. :up

**MnRiverman** · 12-04-2002, 09:05 PM

I just use my leaf blower and with the zymol carbon wax ont he car, it blows all the water off, I only really need to clean the windows.

**Rlockyer** · 01-13-2003, 04:21 AM

For a local source for MF I really learned a bit.

The towels at Kragen/Checker and Wal*Mart are "MicroFabric".

The towels at Target are "MicroBurst".

Pep Boys carries some TurtleWax 16x16 towels that are indicated as being MF, and they are packed in a sealed flat plastic container. I think they were around $3 each.

The Microburst at Target are also sealed, but the MicroFabric from the other places are stapled to a card and are intended to be hung from a peg. I shouldn`t have to mention how auto parts warehouses ship product to the stores... thrown into plastic totes that are never cleaned, and may have once contained starter core returns. :shocked

**416 Auto** · 01-17-2003, 12:07 AM

Awsome techniques guys. They work amazing, lot`s of time but awsome.

Thanks for the tips.

..............Clint

**captkirk2** · 02-03-2003, 03:42 PM

My favorite method is to spray ProActive (prowax.com) detailer on top of the water beads. It flattens them out and most of the water runs off. I use a waffle microfiber to finish the rest. Its real easy and you QD at the same time. ProActive leaves a real nice finish.

**junior** · 02-04-2003, 03:58 AM

...well sort of and it does work. I give the car a good wash and then use a low pressure, high volume water to sheet off the shampoo. It really does amaze me by how much water it gets rid of. After that, I just blot off the remaining water beads with Autoglym`s Aqua Dry Synthetic Leather Chamois.

I have to take extra care to dry the car as quick as possible so as not to leave behind water spots.

And BTW, thanks for the drying technique tip, carguy. :up

**Anthony O.** · 02-15-2003, 12:25 PM

Hey folks, great subject and wonderful input.

My process is in the wash itself. On those vehicles with grit and grime from a recent rain I always wash WITH a flow of water. Add a few drops of cooking oil to my water and soap and this helps to capture and rinse away the grit.

I discovered by accident the advantage of a "flowing" rinse one day when I also accidentally ran over my hose nozzle. The client came out and saw me doing the final rinse and was amazed at how quickly the car dried "itself" and gave me a "Man, you are awesome, where did you learn that trick from?" I didn`t have the heart to tell him......"Uh....just now when in my stupidity I ran over my nozzle!"

The final rinse is followed up with an electric, not gas powered, leaf blower. The gas powered is too loud and I fear gas and oil leaking on the car. The electric is enviro friendly and I can twist and turn it without fear of dripping gas on the car.

All that`s left is a few drips that can be, as Car Guy said, blotted up.

Anthony

**02 LTZ** · 02-15-2003, 12:58 PM

I recently purchased an interior dryer from Top of the Line to dry the interior of vehicles. But I have found another use for it also. I use it to dry the vehicle after I wash it. It dries it quickly and you have very few water spots left. All I have to do is dry the windows and I am done. I have found that it serves two purposes both inside and outside of the car.

**sheltem** · 03-07-2003, 03:21 PM

Anyone have any suggestions if I only have access to pails of water and not a hose?

**switerajaya** · 03-07-2003, 03:50 PM

you can do a search on QEW, I believe that is Quick and Easy Wash. It is a bucket method without using a hose.

**imported_m3driverker** · 03-07-2003, 04:15 PM

Been using that method for years. The best way!

**imported_Infamous** · 04-28-2003, 08:11 PM

So if I use the ``sheeting`` method, should I go straight to a leaf blower and then finish small spots with a MF waffle Weave? The part I hate most about washing a car is drying so this sounds good. By the time I`m done doing Carguys method then the other parts of the car will have water spots. It`s just to tough to do all this before water spots dry onto the car`s surface especially on a car that hasn`t been waxed.

**ashsarna** · 04-28-2003, 08:24 PM

Infamous,

use this method (I :up it). Try do it not in direct sunlight, better when the su is setting, this way you will not get any water spots. I also qd after a wash to revitalize the paint and prevent any water spots that exist.