Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 33
  1. #16

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Millersburg, OH
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks Accumulator for the welcome!



    I have a 6.8 V10 mod motor in my F250 and the first time I cleaned the engine I had an issue. Could tell right away it was misfiring when I started it up. Threw the scanner on a found which cylinder it was and cleaned/dried it all up. I hang out at Ford Truck Enthusiast a lot and it`s a common issue with the mod motors. I`m always careful around COPs in my other cars but I guess I needed to be extra careful.

  2. #17

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Portland OR
    Posts
    12,745
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Monster-4
    Thanks Accumulator for the welcome!



    I have a 6.8 V10 mod motor in my F250 and the first time I cleaned the engine I had an issue. Could tell right away it was misfiring when I started it up. Threw the scanner on a found which cylinder it was and cleaned/dried it all up. I hang out at Ford Truck Enthusiast a lot and it`s a common issue with the mod motors. I`m always careful around COPs in my other cars but I guess I needed to be extra careful.


    All you need to do is to start your car before rinsing off the engine. I never had any issues and am clueless about mechanical stuff.

  3. #18

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Millersburg, OH
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    I personally would not run an engine and spray it down with water. While many things might never happen there are just too many things in my mind that could happen. Anyway Ford`s Modular engines in the Super Duty line of trucks (F/E/Ex trucks with 5.4 V8 and 6.8 V10) have a mechanical fan and it would fling water all of the place while running.

  4. #19

    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Portland OR
    Posts
    12,745
    Post Thanks / Like
    I learned it from a BMW master technitian. I wash engines daily and never any issues.



    Quote Originally Posted by Monster-4
    I personally would not run an engine and spray it down with water. While many things might never happen there are just too many things in my mind that could happen. Anyway Ford`s Modular engines in the Super Duty line of trucks (F/E/Ex trucks with 5.4 V8 and 6.8 V10) have a mechanical fan and it would fling water all of the place while running.

  5. #20

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Millersburg, OH
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Not trying to argue but I still fail to see how a running engine will prevent the typical problems associated with washing (i.e. electrical issues) but if it`s working for you I wouldn`t change.

  6. #21

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1
    Post Thanks / Like
    It is really hard to associate how a running engine prevent the problems in washing. I hope the subject will be clearly discussed.

  7. #22

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    1,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Soooooo do you guys use different dressings for metal and the rubbers? I mean I hear people use 303 aero for the rubbiners or AA tire foam or CD2l, but I have a tuner who has metal intakes and upgraded turbos .... wondering what to do about getting them sparkling

  8. #23

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    86,984
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Alexshimshimhae
    Soooooo do you guys use different dressings for metal and the rubbers? I mean I hear people use 303 aero for the rubbiners or AA tire foam or CD2l, but I have a tuner who has metal intakes and upgraded turbos .... wondering what to do about getting them sparkling


    Sometimes you can use the same dressing stuff for metal and rubber/plastic, but that`s primarily with matte/satin-finished metals. I don`t like the dressing-on-polished/glossy painted- metal approach, but others do it.



    For other metals, use metal polish or stuff made for paint (be careful with M105/M205). Just don`t get aggressive on anodized aluminum or you`ll polish the anodozing right off.

  9. #24

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    1,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    I gotta find out what material it`s made out of then...If i use separate products, I should for instance cover the parts i`m going to use metal polish for, for instance the get 303 to spray down the rubber portions, take off the coverings and then polish off the metals?

  10. #25

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    86,984
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Alexshimshimhae
    I gotta find out what material it`s made out of then...If i use separate products, I should for instance cover the parts i`m going to use metal polish for, for instance the get 303 to spray down the rubber portions, take off the coverings and then polish off the metals?


    I hardly ever (can`t remember the last time) spray products if I`m remotely worried about overspray. I use some kind of application medium like a cloth or a swab.



    And I usually polish the metal first, but that`s just me.

  11. #26

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    1,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    metal first and then rubber spray everything?

  12. #27

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    86,984
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Alexshimshimhae
    metal first and then rubber spray everything?


    First, clean everything. Then polish the metal. Then polish/wax/etc. the painted surfaces. Then apply dressing to the rubber/etc. using applicators/swabs/etc.



    If there are "weird surfaces" that you want to use dressing on, do those separately. Example- the outer cases of alternators sometimes respond incredibly well to the Autoglym Bumper Care (who woulda thunk it?), odd situations like that need to be dealt with on a case-by-case basis and sometimes you don`t know what`ll work/not until you try it.

  13. #28

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    Posts
    1,174
    Post Thanks / Like
    I was afraid that you were ganna say that...not that i`ve done man engine details like ever lol but seeing why people would charge 100 bux for a proper engine detail... sigh...ESPECIALLY for those with cyborg like rocket science get ups under the hood =[

  14. #29

    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    9
    Post Thanks / Like
    What a great writeup and thread. I have a CTS-V that I daily drive and after two winters, it`s time to tackle the engine. I`d prefer a pro to tackle it because I`m so scared of putting water on the engine. After reading this thread, however, I feel that maybe I can tackle it after all. We`ll see.....there are still a few weeks of cool weather to do planning before I attempt it.



    Thanks again!

  15. #30

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    86,984
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by bob_r
    What a great writeup and thread. I have a CTS-V that I daily drive and after two winters, it`s time to tackle the engine. I`d prefer a pro to tackle it because I`m so scared of putting water on the engine. After reading this thread, however, I feel that maybe I can tackle it after all. We`ll see.....there are still a few weeks of cool weather to do planning before I attempt it.



    Thanks again!


    I saw your post about finding a pro to do it, wish I knew somebody (but if I knew any pros that I thought were OK I might let `em do my beaters ).



    As long as you`re approaching this cautiously, I don`t think you`ll have any problems. You don`t sound like somebody who`s gonna spray the engine compartment with a big stream of water from a hose or anything like that.



    If you work small areas at a time, with brushes, rags, small sponges, swabs, or somesuch it oughta go OK. Limit the area of operation to something you can easily manage. That alone should let you limit the amount of water you need to worry about.



    If anything "electrical looking" makes you wonder, just wrap it up with aluminum foil and deal with it later in some careful manner.



    Consider the use of solvents (PrepSol/Pre-Kleano/etc., products used to clean surfaces prior to painting- check the yellow pages for your local autobody/supply store). Solvents evaporate cleanly so there`s no rinsing and they can really clean greasy things up.



    I would *NOT* use much in the way of dressings as they often attract dust/etc. making subsequent cleanups tougher. Yeah, I do go both ways on this one, but I know what will/won`t work with my vehicles and the way I use them. For now, you might want to just get things clean and use something *minimal* on rubber stuff. Plastics will often shine up a little with a leaves-stuff-behind Quick Detailer ("QD") and you can generally get QD anywhere/everywhere without causing any issues so there`s no need to be uber-careful with it (well, within reason).

 

 
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-15-2011, 05:57 PM
  2. Autopia Guide to Detailing: Introduction to Detailing
    By Bobby G in forum Guide to Detailing
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-30-2010, 11:48 PM
  3. Hlp Pls- Password for the Autopia guide to detailing guide?
    By frazman in forum Machine Polishing & Sanding
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-03-2006, 03:08 PM
  4. Autopia Guide to Detailing, V2.00
    By goixiz in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-06-2003, 07:34 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •