New $25 Rotary

**Eliot Ness** · 01-09-2005, 12:39 AM

Originally posted by Mosca

I`ve used mine and it`s just fine for the weekend warrior. ....

Same here..... hard to beat the price for an occassional user.

**imported_Sullybob** · 01-09-2005, 11:24 AM

You guys are killing me with this $25 dollar rotary. I have a Cyclo and I am thinking that this would be great for two reasons.

1. Some things the Cyclo just cant fix.

2. It seems that the rotary is faster for correcting defects.

I just don`t need to spend any more money on detailing products right not. Well, maybe for Fathers day.

**imported_Aurora40** · 01-09-2005, 12:13 PM

One question: So is the trigger just an on-off switch?

Ok, two: Is it made in America?

It`s kind of compelling because it`s just so cheap. However, the only buffing I`ve done to date has been with nicer ones with a variable trigger. I like the DeWalt 849 with the variable trigger and also the max speed dial. I find the variable trigger is useful for finessing (or what I think is finesssing with my noob rotary skills). I like being able to slow it down easily. I also think I`d like a tool lighter than the 849, which this CE isn`t.

However, my PC and Cyclo are on-off, so maybe it`s no biggie. But even at $25, if I don`t like it, that`s $25 that could be put towards something else.

**jimmybuffit** · 01-09-2005, 12:45 PM

The on/off switch is just that, but the startup is gradual. Also, it has a `lockon` button, so you don`t have to hold the trigger - kinda the oppposite of your`re looking for...

The speed wheel is right at your thumb, so it does offer that flexibility. I seldom run this beast over #2.5 anyway (1600?), so speed control is more in my `arm speed` than anything else.

BTW, since I started this thread, I`ve acquired a second - I use one for 6" foam pads and one for big honkin `old school` wool pads. Rather than changing backing plates, for $25 bucks, it is a real timesaver.

Jim

**imported_Aurora40** · 01-09-2005, 12:52 PM

Thanks Jim. Can you turn the speed wheel while it`s running without messing it all up? Or did you just mean it`s quick to stop it and adjust the speed?

I don`t really need a rotary, definitely don`t need one right now. Maybe I should just give it more thought and think about what I really want out of one. :wavey

Bob

**REX-RACER** · 02-10-2005, 02:27 AM

Could someone who has experience w/ both post a comparison between the Cyclo and the Chicago Electric? Price? Similarities and differences? Ease of use and ease of learning for the noob?

Since the PC is a $100 I may get one of these too just to have it around for when I become more proficient and encounter really problem stuff.

Thanx!

**jimmybuffit** · 02-10-2005, 07:00 AM

Would be sorta like comparing a jig saw and a drill.

They are completely different tools.

The Cyclo is is a fine dual head, dual action machine. Many feel it can be more aggressive than the PC, but not noticeably, in my hands.

By design, the dual action machines develop minimal heat/friction, and depend on the pad/polish combo to do the work.

Conversely, ANY rotary adds substantial heat/friction to the equation.

Frequently, I`ll use a rotary to remove severe defects, and finish the same surface with the milder DA.

There is a place for both in the detailer`s arsenal.

Jim

**REX-RACER** · 02-10-2005, 08:00 AM

Originally posted by Jimmy Buffit

Would be sorta like comparing a jig saw and a drill.

They are completely different tools.

The Cyclo is is a fine dual head, dual action machine. Many feel it can be more aggressive than the PC, but not noticeably, in my hands.

By design, the dual action machines develop minimal heat/friction, and depend on the pad/polish combo to do the work.

Conversely, ANY rotary adds substantial heat/friction to the equation.

Frequently, I`ll use a rotary to remove severe defects, and finish the same surface with the milder DA.

There is a place for both in the detailer`s arsenal.

Jim

Thanx for the info Jim! That makes sense to me.

So I gather from your response that the Cyclo is a tool like the PC only somewhat more powerful? So it would be kind of pointless to have a Cyclo and a PC and more useful to have a PC or Cyclo and a good rotary for the weekend warrior type?

**jakes29** · 03-17-2005, 10:22 PM

Ok...So I am going to get a chicago rotary. What size pads do I need and do I need an additional backing plate?

**CRXSi90** · 03-19-2005, 12:21 AM

Hi Jake, I`ll try helping you out by telling what I have, and think works pretty well. To start with, the Chicago Electric (11 amp?) rotary comes with a 7" velcro backing plate. If you want to just go with that, you should get 7" pads. Bigger pads are harder to handle (they say). I have 6" Buff & Shine pads with a 5.5" velcro backing plate for my rotary. 7" > 6" I have been very satisfied with my combination. If you want to see some pictures of the backing plate and pads on the polisher, feel free to look at my gallery: http://autopia.org/gallery/showgalle...at=500&thumb=1

At the time of my purchase, I wasn`t aware that it came with a velcro backing plate, otherwise I probably would have just gone with 7" pads. Here is a 5.5" velcro backing plate that is intended for use with a rotary polisher which is very similar to the one I have. http://www.superiorcarcare.net/megui...ing-plate.html

One other word: I prefer flat pads to the "variable contact" ones (I have 6.5" ones of those). With flat pads, you can get the whole surface loaded up with polish, and for the most part, it will stay like that. With VC pads, I will sometimes pick up a `bead` of product from the paint, and I`ll end up with the outside of the pad being dry, so when I tilt the polisher, or apply more pressure, it is running dry on the paint. Also, I think they produce more sling because they expose the outer edge (if you do get it loaded with product), and it isn`t touching the paint. Maybe I have some flawed logic there, but thats my current opinion.

If you wanted, I am certain that you could aquire a 7" velcro backed polising pad locally, and test it with your 7" velcro backing plate. Then if you felt the need to go smaller, you could, or just stock up on more pads. I haven`t tried 7" pads, but I really should sometime! I didn`t think I could find foam, velcro-backed pads locally, but I did a little looking around, and found them for a pretty decent price, too. (Bumper to bumper, local chain I guess) I hope I was useful in helping you make your decision, rather than just confusing you more. I`m surprised no one replied before me, but if you have any other questions, feel free to ask. I hope you get into rotary polishing, it can be a lot of fun.

**jakes29** · 03-24-2005, 07:52 PM

CRXS...

Thanks for the useful knowledge. I purchased a LC 6.5" velcro backing plate bc a lot of folks said the backing plate that comes with the chicago is a POS. I also got some LC 7.5" foam pads to use.

I think this stuff will work. I have a lot of experience with a rotary so I can`t wait to try this out. Although I am used to working with wool so we`ll see what I can do with the foam pads. I`m pretty optimistic though:xyxthumbs

Thanks again

**CRXSi90** · 03-25-2005, 12:16 AM

Hey, thanks for replying, I`m glad to hear what you ended up going with. I know a bodyshop guy who uses only wool, which suprised me. He said he prefered wool, even after trying foam. Foam might be harder to use, and require more precision, but I think it probably produces better results.

Anyway, good luck, I hope it goes great for you.

**White95Max** · 03-25-2005, 11:55 AM

I ordered a Chicago rotary a couple nights ago. I got a 5" backing plate from Autogeek so that I could use my Propel 6.5" pads.

I also got some SSR3. I would hope I don`t get any customer`s with swirls that a rotary + SSR3 can`t handle. If that`s the case, I`m not even working on it.

**RCBuddha** · 03-25-2005, 11:58 PM

For Jimmy Buffit or anyone who owns a chicago rotary:

I couldn`t believe how cheap it was to pick this thing up! I just walked into the store and they priced matched the internet add that I had printed out. I also got the 2 year warranty. I plugged the machine in to test, and it seemed to spin smoothly. However, I do have some questions:

1. What RPM speeds correspond to what #`s on the chicago electric? I know that 1 = slowest, but does that mean that 1=1000 RPM?

2. The backing plate that comes with the machine seems dangerously close to the edge of the 8" meguiars pads I have. Should I get a 6" backing plate?

3. Is there any difference to using 6.5" pads and a 5" plate?

Thanks,

Buddha

**Eliot Ness** · 03-26-2005, 08:28 AM

Originally posted by RCBuddha

..........However, I do have some questions:

1. What RPM speeds correspond to what #`s on the chicago electric? I know that 1 = slowest, but does that mean that 1=1000 RPM?

2. The backing plate that comes with the machine seems dangerously close to the edge of the 8" meguiars pads I have. Should I get a 6" backing plate?

3. Is there any difference to using 6.5" pads and a 5" plate?

Hey Buddha, I have one and I`ll try to answer your questions.

1. Since that is the low end of the RPM range I have always assumed that 1=1000 RPM, don`t really know of a way to measure it off hand though.

2. I would get a different backing plate that matches up better with the size pads you use. I currently have a 3M BP that I use with the 3M pads I got in a kit a few years ago. Jimmy has some recommendations on BP`s/pads on one of his earlier posts in this thread (first page).

3. You may have better control with a smaller pad, it seems to be more a matter of personal preference. Autogeek is one place that sells a 5" BP for a rotary that should work fine with 6.5" pads, and my next order will be for one of those so I can use the pads I`m more familar with on both the PC and rotary.