Paint Decontamination ABC Kit from Auto International deal

[gmblack3]

Today I placed an online order thru Auto international. for the following:



Alkaline Neutralizer - gallon

SKU: B-102-G



Acid Neutralizer - gallon

SKU: A-100-G



The price for both was going to be $54.82 plus shipping.



I called them to confirm the order since I never got an email. After checking my order and calling me back Beth was kind enough to inform me that they are having a special:



A gallon of each the A,B and C.

2 each 9x9" wash mits.

12oz sprayer for part B.

Applicator pad for part B

MSDS sheets for all 3 products

Instruction sheets for all 3.



Price $55.50+shipping.



Best to call for the special. I "think" she said its called the M35 special???? Talk to Beth. 800-543-7156

[JonP]

Cool deal, may have to give Beth a call. Thanks for the info.

[Accumulator]

Hey, that *is* a good deal...much as I bash the "C" it`s sure worth sixty-eight cents



I`d think twice about using a sprayer for the "B", that`s one product I *DO NOT* want to spray; I put mine in a squeeze botle so I can better control where it goes (or rather, where it *doesn`t* go).

[pingable]

It`s been awhile since I`ve use this stuff.



Remind me...just short of keeping it wet--dwell factor.

What do you guys do around door moldings and such. Just spray the molding down every couple of minutes as it dwells ?

[Accumulator]

It`s been awhile since I`ve use this stuff.



Remind me...just short of keeping it wet--dwell factor.

What do you guys do around door moldings and such. Just spray the molding down every couple of minutes as it dwells ?

I`ll just add more "B" as needed, if that`s the part you`re referring to. Never found moldings/etc. to be a real issue myself. But IMO you simply *gotta* use "ABC" in a reasonable-temperature environment; I sure wouldn`t want to struggle with keeping it from drying/flashing/etc.

[pingable]

The only thing I remember is don`t let that stuff go dry.....

Whereas I don`t see it going dry on paint....I`d hate to ruin the trim on it as well as there is quite a bit of black trim going on my DD.



Thanks.

[Accumulator]

The only thing I remember is don`t let that stuff go dry.....

Whereas I don`t see it going dry on paint....I`d hate to ruin the trim on it as well as there is quite a bit of black trim going on my DD..

I generally keep "B" off such trim (well, as best I can). I only use "B" on areas where I`m concerned about rust-blooms.

[pingable]

ABC guys....I dunno who`s smoking what, but I spoke to AI last Friday and wad discusssing part B. Bryan...if you notice in your kit, they have a scotch pad that is white....in which RK clearly said that using part B with that is great, it`s totally safe on the paint, it won`t mar, etc. While I`m sure the product itself is great, but I just ran the so called white pad across my arms and there is no way it`s coming 10 feet from the paint....



Bryan, were you a brave soul and used the white pads..



Accumulator - Interested read on part B & rust blooms. I never really developed an understanding between part A & B. Just short of C...which I used any wash I had, I didn`t take out the time to accumulate the knowledge between A&B, just short of knowing it was part of the decontamination system.



B -- only for rush blooms eh....

So do you use only A , followed by clay as a strong prewash/prep prior to polish ?

[gmblack3]

ABC guys....I dunno who`s smoking what, but I spoke to AI last Friday and wad discusssing part B. Bryan...if you notice in your kit, they have a scotch pad that is white....in which RK clearly said that using part B with that is great, it`s totally safe on the paint, it won`t mar, etc. While I`m sure the product itself is great, but I just ran the so called white pad across my arms and there is no way it`s coming 10 feet from the paint....



Bryan, were you a brave soul and used the white pads..

I saw that white pad when I unpacked the kit. I will try it out on my beater since I am going to polish it out anyway. But that will not be for 2 weeks.

[Accumulator]

Accumulator - Interested read on part B & rust blooms. I never really developed an understanding between part A & B. Just short of C...which I used any wash I had, I didn`t take out the time to accumulate the knowledge between A&B, just short of knowing it was part of the decontamination system.



B -- only for rush blooms eh....

So do you use only A , followed by clay as a strong prewash/prep prior to polish ?

I think of the "A" as just a super-shampoo. It will supposedly neutralize any acidic contamination (acid rain artifacts) but that`s never been a *huge* concern of mine...nice that it does it, but not my primary reason for reaching for the product.



Being the Acidic step, the "B" is the stuff that "burns out" any ferrous contamination and thus solves/prevents rust-bloom issues; no iron stuck in your paint, no iron there to rust.



Here`s a example of only using the "A": Many used Audis have compromised (clear anodized) aluminum trim, something I do *NOT* want to expose to anything acidic (acids getting into any breaches in the anodizing will "cloud" the aluminum, permanently). So while I`ll use the "A" (or maybe the equivalent FK stuff, I have some of that on the shelf for the next Audi project) to really, and I do mean *REALLY*, clean everything off for a "clean slate" starting point, that`s the only part of the decontamination system I`d ever recommend for a used Audi unless there are specific rust-bloom issues.



If a used Audi *did* have rust blooms, then yeah, I`d use the "B" on it, but man-oh-man would I be careful about keeping it off the aluminum trim pieces. But if no rust-blooms, then I figure "why bother".