Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    nonwelder's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,036
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hello all!

    I got my PC and got a chance to go after the car today. Did the SMR, some One Grand Omega Glaze, and Souveran. For the most part, I am smiling big! However, I still have a few places with swirls. So, what`s my next step? Should I go for FI-II? I want something safe, as I am not an expert with the PC. Thanks for your help!



    Brett:up

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    2,320
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you have the 3M Finesse It II handy go for it. If not you can make a few more passes with the 3M SMR. Which pad did you use for the SMR? If you have the PC kit from CMA, you can step up to a firmer pad, assuming you used a polishing pad, you can go to the firmer foam cutting pad, and if thats not enough try the lambswool polishing pad, always follow up with a fienr pad/product if any haze is present.



    Several applications of a lighter product can equal one application of a more barasive product, just takes more time and enery with the lighter/finer product. In this case the finer product is 3M SMR and the courser product is 3M Finesse It II.



    Good to hear you like the finish/results.



    Jason

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    199
    Post Thanks / Like
    Three passes of SMR with the yellow and white pad didn`t do it for me but, FI-II on the yellow pad followed by SMR on the white was the way to go for me.....

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Red Stick/Nawlins
    Posts
    2,917
    Post Thanks / Like
    Try a few more passes with 3mSMR before moving up to a more abrasive product.
    2005 F-150 Reg Cab Flareside 5.4L

    Chemical Engineers: More refined than the rest.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    18
    Post Thanks / Like

    detailing in tight and small areas????

    I am looking for some advice on paint correction in small and hard to get areas with or with out using my Flex XC3401 VRG. Example: I have an 08 Toyota Tacoma and i want to correct the paint behind my door handles that has many scratches from finger nails. Also what about the A pillars? i need to remove the swirl marks and polish it, should i use my flex with 5.5 inch flat pad or something by hand? if by hand what kind of applicator should i use? Lastly, When correcting the area in and around my body lines should i tape of the edges of the body line? and if i cant get my Flex to lay flat when trying to correct inside of the body line ( I`m referring to the body line toward the bottom of the truck) what approach should i take? Thanks in advance.

    Current Ammo for the job

    Flex XC3401 VRG
    M105,M205
    BFWD
    Megs gold class nuba
    LC 5.5 flat pads: yel,org,white,blk,blue

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    741
    Post Thanks / Like
    For the door cups behind the handles, take a soft cotton cloth and Meguiars 105, and rub the area from the top and the bottom. It is ok to use a little pressure, and keep the compound damp enough to work for a bit.
    Clean out the area with a clean microfiber and see how nice it looks !
    For A Pillars between the front and rear doors, etc., its a good place to use a 4" foam pad or even a 3" if you have a rotary with the appropriate sized backing plate.
    Since you only have 5.5" pads, it will be harder, but not impossible. Just make sure you tape off any plastic and rubber moldings around the A pillars.
    This paint here is sometimes a little fussy because the pillars are usually plastic so it heats up faster and doesnt dissipate heat as well as metal.
    You can try to use a soft cotton or microfiber pad with something less abrasive, perhaps your Meguiars 205, be gentle here, its hard to say how much actual paint is on these pillars.
    Flex came out with a smaller believe its 4 3/8" backing plate for using the smaller 5" pads, so that might be a good thing to think about getting sometimes, and of course some 5" pads..
    I never tape body lines or body panel edges; just let up on pressure and speed when you get close to them and go over quickly. Edges are so sharp that they cant possibly ever really get dirty anyway, so they don`t really need correcting like the surrounding areas may need.
    Your Flex 3401VRG (I also have one of these), will be just fine in those areas.
    Just try to keep the pad as flat as possible, but don`t worry if you cant. I use the edges all the time to help speed up correction of badly swirled, scratched areas, but finish by going over those areas with the pad as flat as possible.

    Good luck with your project !
    Dan F

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    18
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the help and advice...

 

 

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. How do you polish in tight areas?
    By Rexsy in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-12-2008, 06:49 AM
  2. Tight Areas?
    By aquatic wonder in forum Boat, Motorcycle, and RV Detailing
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-08-2007, 05:04 PM
  3. Using a dremel to polish small/tight areas?
    By evo77 in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 06-08-2007, 11:08 PM
  4. cleaning tight areas on car
    By asm505 in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-06-2006, 03:01 PM
  5. How to use PC in small/tight areas?
    By DrewD in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-26-2002, 08:53 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •