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  1. #16

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    Ok so I got my da and used it for the 1st time.I washed my car with citrus wash to remove all the wax then dried it. I used m205 with an orange pad. Did a few rookie mistakes. I did nit apply enough pressure and I was moving to fast while applying m205. I did the while car and saw minimal results. So then continued to apply wax.

    So a week later I started over I used a citrus wash to remove all wax then checked if it needed clay bar it was ok. Then i used meguiars UC and saw results. Then I applied natty blue wax and my car now looks amazing. I still notice swirls but they are minor and hardly noticeable.

    So i just bought the bfwd sealant for my car it should be here in a week or so.

    So when it comes in I will start all over and citrus wash it clay it if needed then use m205 to take of those minor swirls. Then apply the bfwd allow to dry 24 hrs then apply another coat in a day then let that dry then apply my poorboys natty blue wax.

    I hope using m205 another time won`t harm my paint. I don`t know how to tell if a car has soft or hard paint. It`s a 2011 mustang gt black color.

    This pic was taken a few days after used meguiars UC and waxed it. There is dust on it and it was taken from iPhone so not so great pic.

  2. #17

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    Speed of buffer for removing swirls was 5 on my porter cable da buffer

  3. #18

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    David, ::::

    Blk5.0, hardness is something you get a feel for with experience, as far as I`ve seen there isn`t really a way to quantify it.
    Connor Harrison

    Inspection -> Correction -> Protection

  4. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by th0001 View Post
    That is a really tough question to answer because there are a HUGE number of variables that come into play: how thick is the paint system, how much can be removed from the paint system before compromising it`s long-term durability, what methods are a being used to apply M205 (which greatly affects the amount of material removed) and so on and so on.

    Generally the clear coat on your car is going to be about 2 mils or 50 microns in depth. On a daily driven car which is exposed to UV light you don`t want to remove more than 15-20% over the life of the car. So the maximum amount of paint you can polish away is roughly .4 mils or 10 microns. Luckily most swirl marks are less (far less) than .5 mils or 2 microns deep. So you should be able to fully remove swirl marks at least 5 times on most paint systems.

    It is hard to determine just how much material is removed every time a particular product is used. Some paints are very soft so a lot (realtive) of material is removed. So paints are very hard so very little (relative) is removed. Than we have the huge number of variables in the application methods. Are you using a rotary at 2200 rpm with a cutting pad, a Dual-Action polisher at low speed with a finishing pad? By hand? Changing application methods could affect the amount of material removed (and thus the amount of time something could be used) by as much as 300%.

    Think of a tub of butter. If you lightly rub your hand over it, than you barely remove any of the surface. However if you dig in aggressively and really claw at it you could remove 1/2 the material in one shot. The product (hand) was the same, but the method was different.

    If you are careful and your swirl marks are not do to deep, you should have no problem using M205 many many times with out affecting the life of the clear coat. However if you attack your paint like the Hulk, than even a fine polish like M205 is going to wear it thin after a while.
    Its interesting that there are still well known detailers on the major detailing boards who suggest you can use M105 all the time without checking paint levels. And here you are, a proven high end detailer, suggesting to be careful with M205... Its incredible that there can still be this big a gap in terms of care...

  5. #20

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    If I had a black car with relatively soft paint. Id be getting 3m ppf put on the entire car after a full correction. That, or Id use Cquartz/Opti-coat/Nanolex etc as a protective coating...Some of them resist scratches very well, much better then typical sealants...

    I still prefer BFWD plus the Wet Gloss Spray(name?) as my goto, but on soft black I think Id have to concede defeat... Once its soft enough to mar with MF`ers, Id start to pull out what little hair I have left...

  6. #21
    Just a regular guy Todd@RUPES's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grease View Post
    Its interesting that there are still well known detailers on the major detailing boards who suggest you can use M105 all the time without checking paint levels. And here you are, a proven high end detailer, suggesting to be careful with M205... Its incredible that there can still be this big a gap in terms of care...
    While I wouldn`t advocate using M105 all of the time (in a reckless manner) products like M105 and M205 are only as aggressive as the user. M105, by function of the abrasives used, is more like a finishing polish that has the ability to be very aggressive vs. an aggressive compound that finishes nice.

    I am sure that a great many professional detailers (particularly those who are experienced with M105) have a good feel of what they are doing and may not find it necessary to monitor paint levels (based on their experience). But being a professional with 100s (1000s) of cars under your belt is a far different situation than an avid enthusiast who just wants their car to look great because they love their car (and does not want to damage it for the same reason).

    Because of the huge experience gap it is often necessary for enthusiasts to be far more careful, even when using a far less aggressive technique.

  7. #22
    Just a regular guy Todd@RUPES's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk5.0 View Post
    Ok so I got my da and used it for the 1st time.I washed my car with citrus wash to remove all the wax then dried it. I used m205 with an orange pad. Did a few rookie mistakes. I did nit apply enough pressure and I was moving to fast while applying m205. I did the while car and saw minimal results. So then continued to apply wax.

    So a week later I started over I used a citrus wash to remove all wax then checked if it needed clay bar it was ok. Then i used meguiars UC and saw results. Then I applied natty blue wax and my car now looks amazing. I still notice swirls but they are minor and hardly noticeable.

    So i just bought the bfwd sealant for my car it should be here in a week or so.

    So when it comes in I will start all over and citrus wash it clay it if needed then use m205 to take of those minor swirls. Then apply the bfwd allow to dry 24 hrs then apply another coat in a day then let that dry then apply my poorboys natty blue wax.

    I hope using m205 another time won`t harm my paint. I don`t know how to tell if a car has soft or hard paint. It`s a 2011 mustang gt black color.

    This pic was taken a few days after used meguiars UC and waxed it. There is dust on it and it was taken from iPhone so not so great pic.
    Given that you didn`t apply M205 in a manner for it to be aggressive enough to remove the swirl marks (too fast, too little pressure) I would say that you have nothing to worry about. The amount of total material removed with M205 (particularly when used too light/too fast) is going to be as close to zero as you can get.

    You have nothing worry to about (in that regard) so just focus on improving your technique/gaining confidence. The rest of the plan sounds great.

  8. #23
    GoFast908Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Street Dreams View Post
    - A gun
    - One bullet
    :iagree: :soldier:
    Jeff
    Immaculate Reflections Detailing

  9. #24

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    Thank you all for the help

  10. #25

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    I`ve been reading through the boards today putting together a order...
    M205 and some cyan & orange pads...my car is also has some of the minor wear...
    But I was wondering do you need to polish after the 205?? And if so what would you use?

    Thanks
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  11. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by SunDaze View Post
    I`ve been reading through the boards today putting together a order...
    M205 and some cyan & orange pads...my car is also has some of the minor wear...
    But I was wondering do you need to polish after the 205?? And if so what would you use?

    Thanks
    In most cases M205 should give you an LSP ready finish but if you want to kick it up a notch before LSP...
    I like Menzerna PO105 or PO85

  12. #27

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    After you get the paint where you want, you need to get your washing techniques down to limit the chance of inducing more swirls and marring. Use 2 buckets with grit guards and get good quality MF towels for drying and waxing. Use dedicated towels for everything and this will help to protect the finish you worked so hard to achieve.

  13. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk5.0 View Post
    I have a Black mustang I want to achieve the best look for my car. I have a porter cable buffer. I am looking for products such as sealants , waxs , polishes that all can be used together to bring the shine in my car.
    First: Polish
    This is great for the Newbie.
    I have found the Megs DA MF system does an excellent job removing swirls, scratches, correcting & polishing paint. The Megs DA MF is very easy & clean and only requires two different types of products & microfiber pads. A few new rules, a small learning curve and your`e turning our great results. The Meg`s DA MF system is completely different than what I`ve been doing using M105, M205 & polishing using the Kevin Brown Method (KBM).

    Meguiar`s DA Microfiber Correction System 5 Inch Starter Kit - This is a complete kit with everything you need for your PC to obtain excellent results.

    Second: Seal
    This is NOT for the Newbie.
    After you polish the paint to perfection rather than using a wax or sealant I might suggest Optimum Opti-Coat Permanent Paint Coating 2.0. It`s harder than your clear coat and LASTS! This is not a wax or a sealant. It is a permanent coating. Before using this product practice with a few sealants first!

    As a matter of fact, after Opti-Coat 2.0 cures the ONLY way to get it off is to polish it off! With a thickness gauge you will find Opti-Coat 2.0 will actually ADD to your paint thickness. Once it`s cured it`s VERY difficult to scratch or swirl. Remove all waxes & sealants before applying Opti-Coat 2.0.

    NOTE: Be sure the paint is polished to perfection BEFORE applying. If you have scratches or swirls they will show. Opti-Coat 2.0 is optically clear and you will NOT be able to do any correction without spending the time, effort and energy to completely polishing the Opti-Coat 2.0 off the paint first.

    Black is a beast!
    When it`s bad it looks worse than any other color. When it`s excellent it`s the very best color ever painted on a vehicle!
    Two new products have just arrived on the market and from now on detailing with a DA has become a brand new world.

    Final Thought: IMHO - It should be illegal to sell a black vehicle to a person that has Obsessive Compulsive Disorder.


  14. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Merlin View Post
    First: Polish
    This is great for the Newbie.
    I have found the Megs DA MF system does an excellent job removing swirls, scratches, correcting & polishing paint. The Megs DA MF is very easy & clean and only requires two different types of products & microfiber pads. A few new rules, a small learning curve and your`e turning our great results. The Meg`s DA MF system is completely different than what I`ve been doing using M105, M205 & polishing using the Kevin Brown Method (KBM).

    Meguiar`s DA Microfiber Correction System 5 Inch Starter Kit - This is a complete kit with everything you need for your PC to obtain excellent results.

    Second: Seal
    This is NOT for the Newbie.
    After you polish the paint to perfection rather than using a wax or sealant I might suggest Optimum Opti-Coat Permanent Paint Coating 2.0. It`s harder than your clear coat and LASTS! This is not a wax or a sealant. It is a permanent coating. Before using this product practice with a few sealants first!

    As a matter of fact, after Opti-Coat 2.0 cures the ONLY way to get it off is to polish it off! With a thickness gauge you will find Opti-Coat 2.0 will actually ADD to your paint thickness. Once it`s cured it`s VERY difficult to scratch or swirl. Remove all waxes & sealants before applying Opti-Coat 2.0.

    NOTE: Be sure the paint is polished to perfection BEFORE applying. If you have scratches or swirls they will show. Opti-Coat 2.0 is optically clear and you will NOT be able to do any correction without spending the time, effort and energy to completely polishing the Opti-Coat 2.0 off the paint first.

    Black is a beast!
    When it`s bad it looks worse than any other color. When it`s excellent it`s the very best color ever painted on a vehicle!
    Two new products have just arrived on the market and from now on detailing with a DA has become a brand new world.

    Final Thought: IMHO - It should be illegal to sell a black vehicle to a person that has Obsessive Compulsive Disorder.

    Thank you for the tips. I was thinking of the new da system. Is it paint friendly. My concern is ****ing up my paint from trying all these different products trying to remove swirls. Also I love the bfwd the way it makes my black car look. Is it possible to use the new da system and bfwd or is not needed?

  15. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk5.0 View Post
    Thank you for the tips. I was thinking of the new da system. Is it paint friendly. My concern is ****ing up my paint from trying all these different products trying to remove swirls. Also I love the bfwd the way it makes my black car look. Is it possible to use the new da system and bfwd or is not needed?
    The DA MF system works great. The MF finishing wax D301 is actually a polymer not a carnauba with a very fine S.M.A.T. D301 as a finishing product looks pretty good to me. You can top D301 with BFWD and it should look even better. To apply BFWD I would suggest a LC 5.5" flat blue pad.

 

 
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