Dual Action Buffer Help

[Josiah]

On the Lexus web site, they say this regarding the SC:

<blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

Water-Repellent Door Glass
BRIGHTEN UP A GLOOMY DAY. The SC 430 keeps visibility high even in a downpour thanks to the water-repellent glass on its doors. So even if it`s gray and rainy, everything appears a bit clearer.
</blockquote>
What is that all about? Should you use different glass cleaner on it, or is this just hype?
http://www.lexus.com/showroom/model/sc_exterior.html

[rstype]

Yea, while riding on my uncle`s LS430 in the rain, I noticed how the windshield and front windows had a slight Rain-X effect. No skipping wipers too...

[mx5]

Someone find out how long this lasts. Sounds interesting. Could be an added safety feature that should be used on all cars.

[jj300M]

The lexus glass uses a permanent, silica layer that increases the surface tension of the glass and allows water to flow easily off the surface. I don`t think it can be a retrofit modification.

[imported_Intermezzo]

This is straying from the original subject, but I had a problem tinting the rear window of a Lexus IS300 I used to own. The defrost lines were so thick it was impossible to lay down the tint film without any air right next to the defrost lines. Also, I couldn`t stand the car itself. Didn`t have the silky smoothness that Lexus is known for nor could it corner anywhere near its competition. Sorry, hope I don`t get flamed for saying that.

No I agree with that, the automatic transmission on the IS300 tends to slam into gear at around 10 miles an hour. The car was built to take the sporty market load off the ES300, but they skimped and used too many hard plastics

[rmccall6]

Yeah, the IS300 is not bad just not as refined as the competition. Lexus will be introducing an IS430 if anyone is interested, supercharged V8, shoud be around the time BMW releases their V8 M3.

[Gimlet]

Hey everyone! Thanks alot for helping me in my last post. Today I come hoping to find help on how to use my PC 7346. I am using LC pads (orange, white, gold, green, black, and red). As for products I am using Megs 205, Black Fire Glaze/finish, and Megs Wax.

I have looked at some posts and seen people using Painters tape on cars to protect emblems, lights, grills, and crevices.

Since I am starting a simple detail business (no insurance, so I let my customers know, and I dont try to do complicated work). So what advice can you give me? I already know to prep the paint with a CB, and put the cord over my shoulder. I use settings 4.5-6 for polishing. and 2.5-3 for waxing and finishing. Should I also incorporate painters tape or is it not needed. Also I am doing my girlfriend`s mom`s Jaguar XF this weekend which has a hood scoop so I am not sure if I need an tips to handle a hood with slopes. So if you cant tell I am a noob :cornut: and would like some advice to become a better detailer.

Thanks, any help is appreciated

Gimlet

[imported_light-zone]

When I first started out, I went to a local body shop and got an old car hood. It happened to be dark blue which helped to evaluate my work. I used this to practice not only my buffing technique, but to experiment as to which polishes and in what order were needed to achieve correction. It was a helpful process that only took a couple of days to work out. I was able to experiment without worrying about ruining someone`s car.

And in order for your business to succeed, you are going to have to rely on word of mouth advertising.

Good Luck!

[Puckman]

Just be careful if the hood scoops on the Jag are a different material than the surrounding hood material. I would bet they are and I`d tape them up when you do the hood and then do them separately with the DA and a 4" pad later.

Also, watch the "peaks" of the hood if there are any ridges or depressions in the sheet metal. Paint`s thinner in those areas. Has never been an issue with a DA for me though but I still treat those areas with caution whenever I use M105/205.

[PAR Detailing]

If you are going to buff tape off any areas you dont want to hit with a buffer. You never know what can happen and cause the buffer to hit an area that isnt supposed to be buffed. Tape up rubber molding and trim for sure. I like to tape up the door handles also and any side molding that is at risk for getting burned (I use a rotary for compounding alot so the risk is greater than when i polish with my DA)
It is better to be safe than sorry, 20 min of taping can save you hrs of cleanup or $$$ from having to fix the mistake

Other than that best of luck and come to everyone here with any other questions :thumbup:

Jon

[Puckman]

Tape up rubber molding and trim for sure. I like to tape up the door handles also and any side molding that is at risk for getting burned (I use a rotary for compounding alot so the risk is greater than when i polish with my DA)
It is better to be safe than sorry, 20 min of taping can save you hrs of cleanup or $$$ from having to fix the mistake

Jon

This is so true. If for nothing other than keeping your pads clean it`s worth it!!! The funny part for me is that I`ll remove the tape and then go over the previously taped trim with my DA, a 4" pad and an AIO product.

[imported_detailchick]

I was not aware that you could burn with a DA , has this actually happened to anyone ?

[PAR Detailing]

I was not aware that you could burn with a DA , has this actually happened to anyone ?

In theory yes you can burn with a da but it is much much harder. the reason I tape up when using a da is i dont want to stain trim with my compound or polish. I absolutely do it with compounding but also with polishing either because it is already on there or if its not I do it to cover my butt. It doesnt take that long and its not very expensive.

[imported_detailchick]

I see, thanks for taking the time to explain that PAR.
Yes compounds can stain and rather quickly too sometimes.