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  1. #16

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    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by gewb View Post
    Hello Goliath -

    If you are having the Llumar paint film applied, do NOT put on a sealant or wax on the areas to be film coated as the shop will attempt to REMOVE everything with alchohol and maybe other chemicals.

    Best thing to do is a reasonable correction on the scratches and a good polish over the area to be filmed, drive to the shop and take some IPA and quality MF cloths. Tell the shop that you will do the wipe down per their instructions...let hem do it only if there is no alternative but give them your clean MF cloth to do it!

    After you get the car back, then apply your sealant and top coat.

    Regards,
    GEWB
    Gary , if I understand you correctly, you are saying to use your own sealant over the dealer applied product right ? the dealer applied applications are normally guaranteed for five years with recoats if needed,wouldnt this interfere ?

  2. #17

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    Mar 2009
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    So here`s the deal. I used some UC on my hood (yes, after a small test area) and it really worked well. I had to use an orange pad in a couple places to really cut and I have removed the scratches to the point where they are BARELY noticeable. ***NOTE*** I could continue to work on these but given it is a new car, I don`t want to burn through the clearcoat with less than 500 miles (maybe it wouldn`t, but I`m a chicken). Second thing to note, I tried to f/u with ScratchX 1.0 but I actually had to remove some haze with the UC (maybe it`s just too old, I don`t know). So I ended up going over the whole hood, after polishing out some areas with UC and an orange CCS pad, with UC and a white CCS pad. There is a slight compound haze so I`m gonna hit it with some SwirlX when later this weekend after I purchase it. The haze is only noticeable in certain angles and it is there even with just the white CCS pad, so on dark cars I can definitely see where you need to f/u to remove the haze.

    Rock on!

  3. #18

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    Mar 2009
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    UC is pretty good stuff. I first used it when I ran out of 105 about 1 fender short of completing a job.

    Sounds like things are working out.

    TL

  4. #19

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    So, I polished the hood (the only area I`m currently working) with some swirlX with a White CCS pad. I think it made a difference but flourescents don`t seem to show micro marring (or whatever) very well. At this point, I think I see a halo around everything from staring at the reflection of the lights in the hood. I used speed 5 and put less pressure than when I used UC. Of course it`s raining and overcast tomorrow. Maybe I can use a flash light to see what`s really going on.

  5. #20

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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by RED JEWELL SS View Post
    Gary , if I understand you correctly, you are saying to use your own sealant over the dealer applied product right ? the dealer applied applications are normally guaranteed for five years with recoats if needed,wouldnt this interfere ?
    No, I looked up the product Goliath mentioned - it is a film. If a true film then what I posted would be correct. However, if "film" is a sealant then you are correct.

    Regards,
    GEWB

  6. #21

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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by gewb View Post
    No, I looked up the product Goliath mentioned - it is a film. If a true film then what I posted would be correct. However, if "film" is a sealant then you are correct.

    Regards,
    GEWB
    Yea, this is an actual (plastic of some type) film by llumar.

  7. #22

    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Most plastic films do hide light scratches, I would ask the installer, he should know what to expect.

 

 
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