Tips applying Blackfire Sealant

[presidential_detail]

I remember the first time I used Wet Diamond (like over 3 years ago, I`ve been using it probably longer than anyone on this board ) I applied to 3 or 4 panels and came back and removed, it was very greasy and smeary. Didn`t give it enough time to set up properly.

Now I know to apply to the whole car and come back and remove, when you do this it is pretty much the easiest LSP you can imagine.

100% agree!

[imported_RaskyR1]

Don`t the directions on the bottle say to let it dry to a haze anyway?

[imported_akimel]

Don`t the directions on the bottle say to let it dry to a haze anyway?

True ... but there has been some conflicting advice given on this forum about the application of Wet Diamond. People are trying different ways to apply it and apparently getting good results whether the sealant is removed immediately or removed after it has hazed. For example, on June 11th Todd wrote:

Keep in mind that Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant, like other acrylic polymer sealants, is designed to be applied and removed WET. However, like you guys, my preference is too let it dry before removal, but regardless of the technique you choose, you will still get the great slickness, look, and durabilty.

The only down side of choosing to let it dry is that you must make sure it is completely dry before removal. Depending on how thin you apply it and the enviroment, this will take 15 to 30 minutes on average.

Personally, I apply to the entire car, using either my Flex3041VRG or Porter Cable 7242 with a Lake Country Concours Gold pad. 2 little drops will cover at least 1/4 the car.

And then on August 1st Todd wrote:

Wet Diamond is designed to be completely easy to use...

You can let it haze until it is dry to the `swipe test` and remove or

You can apply and remove it wet

Or in between...

Here is my experience with each method...

Haze... If you choose to let it dry to haze completely make sure to give it 30 to 45 minutes. This is not how the product was designed to work but it will. The touchy area is that once you have let it start to haze, it must haze completely or you might get very light `shadows` or streaking in the paint.

Apply it wet and remove... This has become my favorite method. Apply it to a `section` (roughly about 1/4 of the car) then remove immediately. Like other high quality acrylic sealants you will feel the surface increase in slickness as you wipe it off.

In between- This would be Angelo`s method. Apply it to the whole car then remove. The only problem is that if you take a long time to apply it to the whole car or you have a large car it might start to haze. If it starts to haze you have entered the `Haze` section. In this case just let it set up for another 20-30 minutes and your fine.

The polymers in Wet Diamond are sometimes referred to as German super polymers and it uses a very advanced delivery system. The polymers reach the surface of the paint almost immediately and begin to link almost instantly. This is why you can remove the product wet (what is gonna stick has stuck) with no degradation in durability, coating thickness, or looks.

I`m not picking on Todd here. I`m simply noting the absence of expert consensus about the best way to apply and remove Wet Diamond. I intend to apply Wet Diamond in late October or early November in preparation for winter. After reading this thread, I`m still confused about the best way to apply it. I guess I`ll just follow the directions on the bottle and take my chances.

Al

[Todd@RUPES]

Don`t the directions on the bottle say to let it dry to a haze anyway?

Here is the thing with the directions (which are correct by the way)...

Most people (i.e. the consumer) look to replace their existing process (and product) with a process that is similar but works better. Blackfire Wet Diamond is an incredible sealant, and for us (the forum guys) who like to experiment with different techniques and styles, it is a pleasure to use.

So in creating this amazing sealant you create a product that really doesn`t care how it is applied or removed, the material that contacts the paint begins to bond almost instantly.

For the average customer of Wet Diamond (the larger number we sell vs. the small relative number that visit any forum) they want a great product that replaces and improves upon the previous product they used. Since we feel Wet Diamond is a large step up from just about anything you can buy in a store, we printed the directions that seemed the most familiar. Apply; Let Haze; Remove.

It is simple, familiar, and allows the product to be stand on it`s own two-legs vs. a lot of hype.

Also this is not a knock on the general consumer, but a matter of demographics and numbers. Most people want a product that has great value and performs well; it has to be worth the cost: Regardless of whether you are a pro-detailer who wants something to show off their work or an enthusiast who wants a deep, slick, great protecting `wax` for their car, BF WD seems to fit the bill all around.

So there is no dubious marketing and mystical techniques: You don`t have apply it in a wet dress, standing on one leg, on the second full moon of the year. You don`t have to wipe it in a cross hatch pattern, twisting the towel 12 degrees per angle above the equator and sprinkle it with pixie dust, and it isn`t made by an imaginary man in a far away foreign land who mixed impossible numbers of an non-existent wax powder into.

If I had my druthers the directions would read like this: Apply to the car with an application that doesn`t scratch the paint. Do your best to apply it thinly and consistently. Wipe it off whenever you want with a towel that doesn`t scratch the paint.

[imported_Luster]

If I had my druthers the directions would read like this: Apply to the car with an application that doesn`t scratch the paint. Do your best to apply it thinly and consistently. Wipe it off whenever you want with a towel that doesn`t scratch the paint.

That`s good. That`s what I do!:thumbup:

[imported_akimel]

If I had my druthers the directions would read like this:[I] Apply to the car with an application that doesn`t scratch the paint. Do your best to apply it thinly and consistently. Wipe it off whenever you want with a towel that doesn`t scratch the paint.

Haha! Even a newb like me can manage this! :biggrin:

[imported_RaskyR1]

LOL! Thanks for the clarification Todd. The first time I applied it I wiped it off wet. Then for kicks I read the bottle and tried it the traditional way, and like you said, it always works great!

I personally like going around the whole car and letting it dry simply because I don`t like putting down the PC or applicator, and then grabbing a MF towel over an over.

[imported_Luster]

LOL! I personally like going around the whole car and letting it dry simply because I don`t like putting down the PC or applicator, and then grabbing a MF towel over an over.

Same here... Task-oriented!

[presidential_detail]

I personally like going around the whole car and letting it dry simply because I don`t like putting down the PC or applicator, and then grabbing a MF towel over an over.

This is how I got around to experimenting with longer wipe off periods. When I first got it I did a panel at a time, then a 1/3 of the car at a time, the the entire car at the same time..now Ive gone as far as doing the entire car and letting it sit for several minutes(up to 20) and not once has it gone bad on me. I actually prefer how it comes off after letting it sit for several minutes.

[imported_RaskyR1]

This is how I got around to experimenting with longer wipe off periods. When I first got it I did a panel at a time, then a 1/3 of the car at a time, the the entire car at the same time..now Ive gone as far as doing the entire car and letting it sit for several minutes(up to 20) and not once has it gone bad on me. I actually prefer how it comes off after letting it sit for several minutes.

Same here. I will usually do the windows while it dries.

[FJF]

I hope the receive my BF sample tomorrow, just in time for a long weekend. I`ll probably try it on my graphite grey Evo. It`s currently wearing a few coats of Trade Secret sitting on top of DG Track Claw. My plan is to clean the `nuba off with an AIO and lay down the BF. I have KAIO, JW PS, DG501, 3M AIO, and FK215. I think I`m forgetting another product or two. Regardless, any opinions as to the AIO to use before BF? I was going to use one of the first three that I listed, depending on the mood of the day.

[FJF]

The Wet Diamond arrived a couple of hours ago. I applied it with a 5.25" OEM gold pad on a PC. I don`t think it took more than 1/4oz to do the entire car, probably less. By the time the car was covered, the product began to haze lightly. It came off like butter - no effort at all. The sun isn`t out, but the paint looks very glossy ATM. Can`t wait to see it tomorrow.

[Street Dreams]

Okay I have some input on results which came from both methods of application.

On my own car which is flat black I applied the BF WD using the gold LC pad and a PC.

I let it cure for about 20 minutes and buffed off. I DID get some smearing on the finish and couldn`t understand why because once hazed it buffed off like nothing I have used before... super smooth, but later under the fenix LED I found smearing.

Now Bob on the other hand likes to apply and buff off right away and he told me that there were zero issues with smearing... porsche paint, mustang paint, ferrari paint... no smearing!

So my general consensus is that (as Todd explained) if you like to let it cure let it cure for 35+ minutes to ensure its dry and will not smear. But to be safe apply and buff off immediately.

My problem was simply that I did not let it cure long enough.

[Deep Gloss]

I love this stuff.. I have been playing with it for a few months and have put it on more than a dozen vehicles and have seen them come back for follow ups and the customers love it as well.

fwiw:I let it haze

[iCeMaN57]

I just placed an order for BF through PAC and I am rather anxious to use the products! I will be sure to share my results as well.