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  1. #31
    Long Time Member GearHead_1's Avatar
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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Here`s an artical that talks about an oil seperator on a Coyote engine. It`s an afttermarket Ford product which definitely means they`re aware of blow by in a boosted engine. Though this engine is not yet a GDI engine, it too has its own problems with boost and pushing oil.

    There`s been a lot of talk about this engine becoming a DI engine, apparently Ford left a space in the chamber that many assume would become an injection port.

    SEMA 2014: Ford Racing Pulls Out All The Stops For 2015 Mustangs - StangTV
    A society willing to trade liberty for temporary security deserves neither and will lose both
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  2. #32
    black bart's Avatar
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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Quote Originally Posted by GearHead_1 View Post
    Here`s an artical that talks about an oil seperator on a Coyote engine. It`s an afttermarket Ford product which definitely means they`re aware of blow by in a boosted engine. Though this engine is not yet a GDI engine, it too has its own problems with boost and pushing oil.

    There`s been a lot of talk about this engine becoming a DI engine, apparently Ford left a space in the chamber that many assume would become an injection port.

    SEMA 2014: Ford Racing Pulls Out All The Stops For 2015 Mustangs - StangTV
    Yep a common problem on Boosted engines.
    Took me a few try`s before I totally got mine cured.
    You think Ford would pay me anything if I told them how to stop it and never have a drop of oil blow out.
    Most drag cars just use a catch can but I did not want to go that route.

  3. #33

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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Good thread, Black bart linked one of the BEST DIY walnut blasting guide.
    Although i dont have the experience to perform one, however i do feel like this is something i`d have to do in the near future, as my Girl and I both own a Mini Cooper and her carbon problem has been haunting her for YEARS.

    But can anyone tell me how do i get the valves to close to clean each and individual valve lol?

  4. #34
    black bart's Avatar
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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    You will have to rotate the engine till the valve is closed.
    While it would be a lot more work but I believe removing the head is the best way to clean the valves.

  5. #35

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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    How do you rotate the engine lol?
    I am a beginner with this type of stuff

  6. #36
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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Quote Originally Posted by fenderpicks View Post
    Good thread, Black bart linked one of the BEST DIY walnut blasting guide.
    Although i dont have the experience to perform one, however i do feel like this is something i`d have to do in the near future, as my Girl and I both own a Mini Cooper and her carbon problem has been haunting her for YEARS.

    But can anyone tell me how do i get the valves to close to clean each and individual valve lol?
    It won`t be hard to tell. Just take off the valve cover and make sure the cam lobes are off the rocker/valve.

  7. #37
    black bart's Avatar
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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Quote Originally Posted by fenderpicks View Post
    How do you rotate the engine lol?
    I am a beginner with this type of stuff
    You can bump the starter or put a wrench on the crank pulley or use a screwdriver and pry on the flywheel teeth after removing the cover.
    Usually the crank pulley is the easy way.

  8. #38

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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    damn, i need to take some classes on this.

    I only know how to bolt on and off parts lol

  9. #39
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Fenderpicks -
    You can do this !
    Just need to find out where the big nut is on the CrankShaft Pulley..
    Get a pic from the Internet, ask someone who knows where it is on your cars to show you, then get the appropriately sized Metric Socket, a Ratchet or long breaker bar in 1/2" drive probably, and with the valve cover off, you can see while you rotate the crankshaft which valves are at the "top" (Closed)..
    That set is the one to clean next..
    Rotate crankshaft again, and repeat until done..

    I am also with Black Bart of the opinion, that the really best way to clean valves is off the car with the cylinder head on the bench..

    I need to watch that walnut shell blasting video...

    The awesome German Car Repair Shop I worked out of in WA had boxes of walnut shells, so I have to assume they were using them as well for cleaning but Im sure they would have removed the cylinder head/s to do the work..
    Good luck with this !
    Dan F

  10. #40

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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Shoot, I thought it was bad enough doing a timing belt every 60K miles, now I have to pull the heads and feed them walnuts?

  11. #41
    black bart's Avatar
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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Quote Originally Posted by Setec Astronomy View Post
    Shoot, I thought it was bad enough doing a timing belt every 60K miles, now I have to pull the heads and feed them walnuts?
    New cars use less fuel but more walnuts.

  12. #42
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Ford Engineers - Business as Ussual

    Just went through the entire article and read 4 pages of posts from the E90 forum as well.

    Seems like some people in the US are buying a similar tool from Harbor Freight, and the Adapter from BMW or ECS Tuning, or BavAuto - all US located tuners that have been around for at least 15 years or so...

    Looks like great cleaning from the Pics I saw can be accomplished without removing the Head, and several on the Forum showed before and after pics, and all said their Bimmer ran like new again after the work..

    So, you can do this but will need to get some gaskets for the intake Im guessing, the machine, an air compressor, and perhaps a few more tools ?

    All of this is Not that cheap, so you have to decide if its worth it or not to buy all this, take the top of your motor apart to get to the Intake ports, etc... Or pay the Dealer or perhaps an Indy shop perhaps a smaller amount, or best possible - get the Dealer to do it for free..
    Good luck !
    Dan F

 

 
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