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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Va.
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    I used Klasse (AIO, SG) for the first time this past weekend. This went on an 02 Maxima with Dark Blue Metalic. The previous coat was Meg Gold Class about 3-4 weeks old. I washed the car with Gold Class Shampoo (I thought about using Dawn but figured the AIO would remove the old wax). I applied the AIO with a Micro-pad as per instructions - nickel size drop, etc. The AIO went on easy and I applied a little pressure to aid in the cleaning. I tried to leave as little residue as possible. I changed from using the nickel size drop to a lesser amount more often as I seemed to `run out` of product before I thought I should - I used FI to keep the pad damp. The product went off easy (using a MT but I did not feel that it left much shine or depth - but I do feel it cleaned well.



    Next went on the SG - a fresh Micro-pad using FI. This went on easy as well and I left just enought residue that it could be seen. I finished the car and let it sit for 1 hour. I took off the SG residue with a fresh MT. I thought it was coming off fine and I could see some shine until I caught the surface in the light just right - that`s when I began to see the haze that would just not come off. Sometimes it seemded to move around as I buffed it. Anyway, I had read about this so I just kept wipping and finshed the car. I then used FI on the the spots that did not buff out (most of the car). The FI worked just fine and car looked good. It did not have the shine or slickness that it had in the past using Gold Class but again I expected that. I plan to apply another coat this weekend and another the following.



    My Concerns:



    1) Did the previous coat of Gold Class somehow affect Klasse ?

    2) Was an hour not long enough ? (65 degrees low humidity)

    3) Did using the FI to aid in removal diminish the SG protection ?





    Thanks for reading. Any comments are welcome.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    NJ
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    3,166
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    This mysterious "haze." In your case, I believe the oils in the gold class inhibited bonding and crosslinking of the KLASSE. Oils and polymers don`t mix!!!



    You should of dawn washed. AIO is a cleaner, but people use such thin coats I don`t know how they expect to get any type of cleaning out of it............



    My idea of a product that cleans is something like NU FINISH, in which you glob it on, and rub like crazy...........

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Hey Max we were up to the same thing this weekend. I used both of the Klasses on my white truck. I also had the same problem with wiping off the SG. Like you said I thought I had got most of it but when the light would hit a certain way I could see that I missed a lot. Using some QQ helped. What really worked though was the really early the following morning I went outside to my truck and found it coated with a uniform misty dew. I used a terry towel and with the help of the moisture from the dew I was able to wipe the rest off.



    btw this morning I could still see the swirls from the PC but only with the aid of the dew that had settled on the paint.



    If the treatment will last for six months I think it will be worth it. If it doesn`t I think that I`ll try Zaino. Long lasting protection is my number one goal for my truck because it stays outside and it is a big job to wax or seal it.



    Here`s a pic after the SG although the lighting isn`t too good.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    NJ
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    you are noticing the "gumming" effect from not letting the first coat cure before applying the second. Polymers are temperature sensititive, the warmer it is, the faster they cure. It seems recently (as it has been getting colder) that people have been having the hazing problem with KLASSE.



    So how long did you wait in between coats? Remember KLASSE is a hi solvent product, so enough curing time should be allowed between coats.



    It`s a shame after all this time, and questioning, no one from KLASSE, stepped in and answered these questions on cure time.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Posts
    6
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    Lately, after SG-ing the car, I find it looks better after the next wash. If I miss removing any small amounts of SG I try not to worry about it too much.



    I`ve also been applying a fresh coat of SG after every wash...I`m up to 3-4 coats right now, with a week between each one.



    The car looks amazing and I even had someone stop me yesterday and ask me what the heck I was using to get that shine! The depth is unbelievable and I love it just the way it is...forget the Blitz!



    Paul
    2001 Black Jetta 1.8T

    Luxury Pkg w/ 16" wheels

    Leather Interior

    Monsoon Sound

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    385
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    Truck looks great Short Cut!! It`s a `99 right??
    Jorge
    00 BMW 328CI

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    <blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

    <em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by Dave C. [/i]
    <strong class=`bbc`>Truck looks great Short Cut!! It`s a `99 right?? [/b]</blockquote>
    Good eye Dave! Thanks a bunch! I`ve had it for 3 years and 50k miles. It won`t fit in the garage so it stays outside. I was pleased with the Klasse treatment and took a Couple More Photos afterwards.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    I wonder if there are definitive answers for cure times on products like Klasse. It would be nice to know but I think there are too many variables. Perhaps someone can reach out to the Klasse folks for some insight.



    Pauls` response about washing is the clue that Klasse isn`t completely curing. The "OG detailerz" use the trick of spray water or rinsing the car after polishing. The reaction to water "cures" the product.



    I`ve has this problem of hazing for years using 3M pink and #7. Now that I`m using Finish First I don`t seem to have the same problems. But I`m not sure if that`s related to the product, the paint, or the weather conditions.
    There are only three things you need to know about me. Gloss, Gloss, GLOSS!!

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Post Office Box 9 Newbury, OH 44065 AIM:YoSteveDotCom
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    2,214
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    I personally don`t recommend using QD as AIO lube or for AIO/SG removal. I use distilled (or plain) water. As I said you can even breathe on Klasse and wipe it off.



    If you use a damp (well wrung) MF applicator sponge for your AIO it`ll help you get more out of the AIO. With the SG try to use the same part of the sponge, so by the second panel it`ll be easier to apply all around.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Sweet pics Short Cut!! The grille guard, headache rack, and running boards really compliment the truck!! Is it a 3/4 or 1 ton? 5.4, 6.8, or 7.3L?? (Don`t know the ci`s on the new motors although I think the PSD is a 444ci)
    Jorge
    00 BMW 328CI

  11. #11
    Jedi Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    I`ve used Klasse when the temperature was warm with low humidity and at lower temperatures. There is a big difference in the drying time of Klasse after application depending on the temperature like DetailKing has mentioned. Klasse is so much easier to remove when the temperature is higher with low humidity. I waited only 20 minutes to take the Klasse off and it was very easy with the aid of a dampened MF towel. I didn`t miss any spots. I did check the car the next day in the sun and didn`t notice and missed spots. On the other hand, at lower temperatures, it took longer for Klasse to dry. I waited 20 minutes and it was not completely dried. Had to wait 1 hour before it completely dried. Removal of SG was also harder and gummed up a little. Next year in the spring when it is time to detail again, I will definitely have to choose the best conditions to detail when using Klasse. The temperatures will be warmer and will aid in removal of SG. So to fellow Klasse users, postpone your detailing efforts for now and wait till spring time. If you must put another layer or just starting off with Klasse, then you will be spending a little more time on removal of Klasse.

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    <blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

    <em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by Dave C. [/i]
    <strong class=`bbc`>Sweet pics Short Cut!! The grille guard, headache rack, and running boards really compliment the truck!! Is it a 3/4 or 1 ton? 5.4, 6.8, or 7.3L?? (Don`t know the ci`s on the new motors although I think the PSD is a 444ci) [/b]</blockquote>
    Hope Max doesn`t mind our little side conversation. It`s a one ton V10 which is a 419ci if memory serves. I`m glad that I didn`t get the diesel. The 10 tows a 30` fifth wheel up and down California`s mountains just fine. When it`s not towing the extra hp is nice for passing in the mountains.

    Previously we always had a truck and a family car but this vehicle can serve as both. It will seat 6 men comfortably.

  13. #13

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    <blockquote class=`ipsBlockquote` >

    <em class=`bbc`>Originally posted by Short Cut [/i]
    <strong class=`bbc`>

    Hope Max doesn`t mind our little side conversation. It`s a one ton V10 which is a 419ci if memory serves. I`m glad that I didn`t get the diesel. The 10 tows a 30` fifth wheel up and down California`s mountains just fine. When it`s not towing the extra hp is nice for passing in the mountains.

    Previously we always had a truck and a family car but this vehicle can serve as both. It will seat 6 men comfortably. [/b]</blockquote>Cool!! I don`t see many Crew Cabs around these parts especially SRW Crews!! Also, the only 10cyl SD Pickup I`ve seen is my school`s 00` Deep Wedgewood Blue F-350XL 4x4 Crew that`s already pretty beat! Most SD`s here are V8`s (gas and a surprising amount of PSD`s).
    Jorge
    00 BMW 328CI

  14. #14

    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    I had the same issue when it is cold, Now I let the SG dry for at least an hour, then remove with a MF, damp on one side and dry on the other.

    Remove excess with the damp part, turn over and dry.... no haze, just shine! :bounce

  15. #15
    Jedi Master
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    Mar 2009
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    It`s best to have two MF towels on hand for the removal of SG. A dampened MF towel to get most of the SG off and the dry one to remove the little water droplets left by the dampened MF towel.

 

 
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