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  1. #1

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    Question What is Jewelling

    Hello Everyone,

    Anyone know what Jewelling is and have they tried it, and what do i need to accomplish this?

    This is some of the items i own, that might be needed for the jewelling, if its not here, please recommend and i`ll purchase it if i have to.

    I have the following polishers
    Flex XC3401VRG
    Porter Cable 7424
    DeWalt DW849

    Pads
    LC CCS pads Yellow to Blue
    LC Kompressor pads Purple to Gold

    Polishes
    Zaino ZPC
    Zaino ZAIO
    Menz Intensive and FpII
    Megs 205
    Klasse AIO


    Thanx In Advance
    Claude

  2. #2

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    I think its like tumbling.

    Maybe its like ornamentizing.

    Or maybe its like polishificating.

    Or perhaps its like refinerifying.

    I`m not sure. But I am sure Todd knows. Bryan probably does, too.





    note to Claude - this is kind of an inside joke, don`t worry, just having a little fun with it

  3. #3

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    test test test
    There are only three things you need to know about me. Gloss, Gloss, GLOSS!!

  4. #4
    GasserMike's Avatar
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    The way I understand jeweling is after you have polished your paint , come back with an ultrafine polish and pad and polish once more to get the ultimate finish possible . Once you jewel a finish you will know you are there and will understand the reason for the extra effort . Especially great on dark colors .

  5. #5
    Just a regular guy Todd@RUPES's Avatar
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    The act of final polishing on a rotary with a finishing polish and a low cut, low mechanical action pad has probably been around as long as people first started taking a `wheel` to their car.

    In the professional industry, such as in body shops, this term was often called `glazing`. The main confusion was the definition of the word glaze. To the best of my research, the world glaze was originally given to products that would protect paint but not seal it, such as on fresh paint. Older, single stage paints would often get little cloudy when they out gassed, so most glazes contained a light abrasive to restore the gloss of sheen of the fresh paint. I have heard some old timer`s refer to this as `rubbing out the paint` and often done by hand to achieve that flawless shine.

    Again, to the best of my research, in the old days fresh paint paint was `cut` using a compound that sometimes consisted of corn starch, and a light wool pad. To remove the compounding marks and finish in one step, the all in one glaze was perfect.

    As machine and pad technology advanced, glazes became machine applicable. Many of these glazes also contained a light `filling` agent, since the application by machine could leave light buffer trails in the paint. The term glaze no longer meant a hand polish that may have light abrasives to be used on fresh paint, but rather a generic term used to describe any act of final polishing. Some glazes had fillers, some didn`t. Some had protective qualities, some didn`t.

    As paint systems changed and became more difficult to work on, a new industry of refinishing and repairing paint systems emerged: The detailer. Detailers had started the only compounds and polishes available to them, the professional lines on the market.

    To separate industries emerged: The professional users which called the process glazing, and often used products who demanded particular polishes which allowed the car to look great leaving the shop, and only would purchase products that allowed for quick turn around.

    And the professional detailers who wanted to really focus on improving the paint`s appearance and found a lot of the body shop `glazes` substandard by default of the professional`s needs. The detailers started referring to this process as final polishing to separate themselves from the term of glazes. It should be noted that a lot of detailers still used a glaze for its appearance properties, but not to final polish paint.

    The recent explosion in detailers and enthusiast looking for the perfect shine has increased the numbers of people demanding more and using different terms, most companies still cater to the professional market, which is has a much larger share. The enthusiast who uses 32 oz`s of product in 2 years polishing their own and their friends` cars is far less then the number of body shops ordering 55 gallon drums every couple of months.

    In the professional world the word polish means to remove defects and the word glaze means to finish the paint out. Pad labels where meant to clarify this. Polish pads had various levels of cut aimed at removing defects and glazing pads had little to no cut aimed at finish the paint to the highest gloss possible.

    As the Internet influence grew, detailers and enthusiast used there own lingo. Polishing was finishing the paint and glazing was an optional step before waxing, to increase the shine. Some on line retailers of detailing supplies dropped the ball and did not do enough research on the pad`s original intent. This lead to a lot of detailers using professional medium step polishing pads to finish paint with a rotary, and never achieving the highest gloss possible.

    When I first joined a popular detailing forum I was somewhat confused by the number of people finishing the paint with medium step pads. Coming from a brief background using only Meguiar`s products (Meguiar`s is one company who has always recommended last step polishing with a final polishing pad with a rotary polisher). Advances in polishes allow more aggressive pads to be used with out scouring the surface, but would sometimes not give full gloss, or lead to very faint hologramming that isn`t always immediately visible.

    Since polishing with a medium cut pad and a final polish was deemed `final polishing` I started using the term `jeweling` to describe the act of using the correct `glazing` pad with the correct finishing pad. I did this only after a lot of people asking me why I wasn`t using a medium cut pad like everybody else. I think it is very cool that this term caught on, but it is no more then true, final polishing or `glazing`.

    You are simply taking paint to it`s highest potential by trying to remove as much abrasion as possible. It is unfortunate that some sites should have had better knowledge of the products they sell, CMA has always recommend final polishing with the correct pads for maximum gloss on a rotary polisher.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by th0001 View Post
    The act of final polishing on a rotary with a finishing polish and a low cut, low mechanical action pad has probably been around as long as people first started taking a `wheel` to their car.

    In the professional industry, such as in body shops, this term was often called `glazing`. The main confusion was the definition of the word glaze. To the best of my research, the world glaze was originally given to products that would protect paint but not seal it, such as on fresh paint. Older, single stage paints would often get little cloudy when they out gassed, so most glazes contained a light abrasive to restore the gloss of sheen of the fresh paint. I have heard some old timer`s refer to this as `rubbing out the paint` and often done by hand to achieve that flawless shine.

    Again, to the best of my research, in the old days fresh paint paint was `cut` using a compound that sometimes consisted of corn starch, and a light wool pad. To remove the compounding marks and finish in one step, the all in one glaze was perfect.

    As machine and pad technology advanced, glazes became machine applicable. Many of these glazes also contained a light `filling` agent, since the application by machine could leave light buffer trails in the paint. The term glaze no longer meant a hand polish that may have light abrasives to be used on fresh paint, but rather a generic term used to describe any act of final polishing. Some glazes had fillers, some didn`t. Some had protective qualities, some didn`t.

    As paint systems changed and became more difficult to work on, a new industry of refinishing and repairing paint systems emerged: The detailer. Detailers had started the only compounds and polishes available to them, the professional lines on the market.

    To separate industries emerged: The professional users which called the process glazing, and often used products who demanded particular polishes which allowed the car to look great leaving the shop, and only would purchase products that allowed for quick turn around.

    And the professional detailers who wanted to really focus on improving the paint`s appearance and found a lot of the body shop `glazes` substandard by default of the professional`s needs. The detailers started referring to this process as final polishing to separate themselves from the term of glazes. It should be noted that a lot of detailers still used a glaze for its appearance properties, but not to final polish paint.

    The recent explosion in detailers and enthusiast looking for the perfect shine has increased the numbers of people demanding more and using different terms, most companies still cater to the professional market, which is has a much larger share. The enthusiast who uses 32 oz`s of product in 2 years polishing their own and their friends` cars is far less then the number of body shops ordering 55 gallon drums every couple of months.

    In the professional world the word polish means to remove defects and the word glaze means to finish the paint out. Pad labels where meant to clarify this. Polish pads had various levels of cut aimed at removing defects and glazing pads had little to no cut aimed at finish the paint to the highest gloss possible.

    As the Internet influence grew, detailers and enthusiast used there own lingo. Polishing was finishing the paint and glazing was an optional step before waxing, to increase the shine. Some on line retailers of detailing supplies dropped the ball and did not do enough research on the pad`s original intent. This lead to a lot of detailers using professional medium step polishing pads to finish paint with a rotary, and never achieving the highest gloss possible.

    When I first joined a popular detailing forum I was somewhat confused by the number of people finishing the paint with medium step pads. Coming from a brief background using only Meguiar`s products (Meguiar`s is one company who has always recommended last step polishing with a final polishing pad with a rotary polisher). Advances in polishes allow more aggressive pads to be used with out scouring the surface, but would sometimes not give full gloss, or lead to very faint hologramming that isn`t always immediately visible.

    Since polishing with a medium cut pad and a final polish was deemed `final polishing` I started using the term `jeweling` to describe the act of using the correct `glazing` pad with the correct finishing pad. I did this only after a lot of people asking me why I wasn`t using a medium cut pad like everybody else. I think it is very cool that this term caught on, but it is no more then true, final polishing or `glazing`.

    You are simply taking paint to it`s highest potential by trying to remove as much abrasion as possible. It is unfortunate that some sites should have had better knowledge of the products they sell, CMA has always recommend final polishing with the correct pads for maximum gloss on a rotary polisher.

    Thanx Todd for spending the time to explain the process.
    Very educational for me and very useful.
    Have a great weekend

    Claude

  7. #7

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    Let me preface this post by saying I am referring to rotary polishing....

    To expand a bit on what Todd said (like he wasn`t thorough enough - lol), you`ll notice on other sites, guys will "finish" out with something like 106ff, and a white LC pad. In my opinion, these guys are going to get a rude awakening once the sun bakes that car a bit, and after the wax/sealant wears off.

    There was a period a while back when detailers were doing 2 polishing combos, and "thought" they had achieved perfection (which I don`t believe they really had:

    The first is where guys thought SIP on an Orange foam or PFW pad, followed by 106ff on a White pad would finish out anything. This is where a lot of guys started seeing defects coming back. The third step of a finishing pad, and a finishing polish was missing.

    The second scenario is where guys were using M105 with PFW, then following it with Ultrafina on a finishing pad. In this case, a middle step, such as SIP or IP with a medium cut pad was missing.

  8. #8

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    so let me get this perfectly clear as i have a jet black car that seems to be a little harder to get perfect especially at my skill level. after finsh polishing with the white pad, to get optimum shine i should follow that with a red, gold or black pad and super finish polish. the need to glaze is not necessary then... just top with a sealant or carnauba wax... right?

  9. #9
    TOGWT
    Guest
    Paint Burnishing (Jewelling)
    An optional step after finishing, done with a non-abrasive ultra soft pad and an ultra fine finishing polish, for the removal of any microscopic pad abrasion, which also reduces the chance of holograms and will increase the gloss of the paint by a final polishing step, taking the finish from 99.5% to 100%

    Typically the final step in surface polishing; using a finishing polish (Final Finish Polish / Super Finish 106FA) in tandem with a pad that has no abrasive abilities (CCS Gold Concours Finishing foam) you are just effectively burnishing the paint surface to a high gloss finish. Most finishing polishes are formulated with lubricating oils, which enable a longer working time.

    Spread a finishing polish using a non-abrasive foam pad at 900-1000rpm and then increase to 1200-1500rpm until it goes clear and then make few passes at 1000rpm.

 

 

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