Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast
Results 91 to 105 of 107
  1. #91
    Mobile Detailing Services justin30513's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Blue Ridge, GA
    Posts
    2,233
    Post Thanks / Like
    I`m sorry but to ME, sealants and waxes are 80% beauty and 20% protection.



    I`ve worked on cars that have clear coat failure and have been sealed twice a year. On the other hand, I`ve detailed cars that have nothing done to them in 15 years and come out looking great.

  2. #92

    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    4,536
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Murphy
    I`m sorry but to ME, sealants and waxes are 80% beauty and 20% protection.



    I`ve worked on cars that have clear coat failure and have been sealed twice a year. On the other hand, I`ve detailed cars that have nothing done to them in 15 years and come out looking great.




    This then has more to do with a factory paint job than whether or not it has been waxed. Clearcoat failure may have more to do with bad UV absorbers applied in the factory.



    Anthony

  3. #93
    Mobile Detailing Services justin30513's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Blue Ridge, GA
    Posts
    2,233
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
    This then has more to do with a factory paint job than whether or not it has been waxed. Clearcoat failure may have more to do with bad UV absorbers applied in the factory.



    Anthony


    Totally agree. I still to this day wonder just how well waxes and sealant actually protect the paint. I know they help it stay clean and assist in cleaning.

  4. #94

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    86,975
    Post Thanks / Like
    IME even quality OE paintjobs can fail if not properly taken care of. My `93 Audi V8 was considered a high-end car in its day, but its paint has considerable damage (the kind you can only fix with a paintgun) from years of substandard care. OTOH, first-gen Mazda RX-7s and single stage Rhodium Silver Jags like mine were both notorious for rapid paint failure, yet my RX-7 and XJS still look showroom because they were always well taken care of.



    Actually, seems like every time I buy a used vehicle, it has serious paint and trim problems, yet my (often older, higher mileage) bought-new vehicles don`t have any problems like that at all. I can`t help but think there`s a correlation there :think:

  5. #95
    SuperBee364's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    4,710
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator
    IME even quality OE paintjobs can fail if not properly taken care of. My `93 Audi V8 was considered a high-end car in its day, but its paint has considerable damage (the kind you can only fix with a paintgun) from years of substandard care. OTOH, first-gen Mazda RX-7s and single stage Rhodium Silver Jags like mine were both notorious for rapid paint failure, yet my RX-7 and XJS still look showroom because they were always well taken care of.



    Actually, seems like every time I buy a used vehicle, it has serious paint and trim problems, yet my (often older, higher mileage) bought-new vehicles don`t have any problems like that at all. I can`t help but think there`s a correlation there :think:


    I had a co-worker bring his base/clear black Jag to my place for a full exterior detail. The rest of the car was ok, but he had advanced clear coat failure on the entire hood. This was a couple of years ago. Doing a few internet searches brought up quite a few complaints regarding CC failure on Jags.



    On topic, having the "sacrificial layer" of an LSP on the paint does help. Especially if the LSP is better at releasing dirt than the clear coat it sits on.
    Sage advice from Greg Nichols: "Hey, Supe? When you`re trying to get the air bubble out of your syringe of Opti-Coat, don`t point it at your face, mmmkay?"

  6. #96
    Mobile Detailing Services justin30513's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Blue Ridge, GA
    Posts
    2,233
    Post Thanks / Like
    So is an LSP protecting on a chemical or physical level?



    Is it like sunscreen or a clear bra? LOL

  7. #97

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    1,495
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by MDRX8
    What is Hydro Shine??? Link to the product???? Thanks


    http://www.automagic.com/2005-Flyers...e-Flyer-lo.pdf

  8. #98

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    86,975
    Post Thanks / Like
    SuperBee364- The old Jag Rhodium Silver was so bad that (according to my Jag dealer) they quit using it shortly after my car was built because they were having so many problems with it. I have numerous sections that were obviously repainted at the factory (and one more done presumably post-importation that I finally had to have redone)...one seriously jacked paintjob before it even hit the showroom...just figures that it`d end up being my keeper car



    I shudder to think what it`d look like without my attentions.



    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Murphy
    So is an LSP protecting on a chemical or physical level?



    Is it like sunscreen or a clear bra? LOL


    Both, at least if you`re using an LSP with UV-blocking agents.



    Another example of why this LSPing is necessary- my new `00 beater-Tahoe`s wiper arms are oxidized all the way thorugh their finish; I can compound away until I hit bare metal without effecting an improvement. And the plastic cowling under them is equally trashed. Too much UV exposure, and stains from bird-bombs/bugs that ate right into the material.

  9. #99

    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    34,077
    Post Thanks / Like
    Detailer`s Pride Poli-Coat has really impressed me. Really nice wet glow and pretty durable. Recently detailed a Jaguar I had applied Poli-Coat to in April and it was still beading very well (I don`t wash this car, based on all the dressing on the wheels, I am guessing the dealer washes it), looked great and had decent slickness.
    www.scottwax.com

    Certified Opti-Coat Pro/Pro 3 installer

  10. #100

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    209
    Post Thanks / Like
    I dont know how many times I have come back to read this thread due to my troubles finding the right LSP. I find my self pondering these same questions all the time:



    Are waxes or sealants even necessary with today’s modern clearcoats? If so, how?



    Are they adding longevity to its composition? Hence feeding, coating, sealing…



    Are they eliminating UV rays from fading the basecoat?



    Are they eliminating acids from rain, birds and insects from etching into the clearcoat?



    Do they create a sacrificial barrier that eliminates surface marring due to slickness? Even though initial slickness falls off almost initially after the 1st few washes, does that mean this so-called protective characteristic has diminished too?



    Is beading indicative of protection? If so at what capacity?




    Its hard for me to comprehend this after so many years of detain my own vehicles but its hard to dismiss.



    IMO the most important factors that prolong the life of the painted finish are:

    1. Like previously mentioned on this thread the quality of the paint and application at the factory during the manufacturing process of the vehicles.

    2. Car being kept in a garage.

    3. Frequent washing with proper technique to remove dirt and contaminants before they can bond or damage the finish.



    Next sealant up to bat for me is Optimum Opti Seal I am hoping this sealant can hit a homerun...I really look forward to applying it in minutes and not having to wipe off or buff because it flashes.
    Cris

  11. #101

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Athens, GR
    Posts
    519
    Post Thanks / Like
    It is indeed interesting read this one. As a chemical engineer I could look into this further from a chemistry/technology point of view. But I will devote my time for now to other things .



    However, I will just chime in based on my experience. I have only used fk1000p as sealant. I have used a couple of waxes from cheap (s100) to boutique-ish (rg55).



    Do *I* notice a difference? Yes and no.



    1000p I feel protects my paint from the elements, pollen, bird bombs etc. Removal of these prior to 1000p was neither easy not safe. Now I think things just slide of my paint.



    The no part goes to the wax. Apart from `warming` a little the glassy sealanty look of the 1000p and increasing beadind I am not sure it increases the protection factor.



    I have never used wax on its own, as I consider 1000p a must for protection especially during the hot summer months in Greece. If I had then I could give solid feedback on solitary wax performance.



    So, all in all, I see a need/benefit for some sealant/wax protection on well prepped and well maintained paint.



    Αχ αυτό το κλικ!!!

  12. #102
    CEE DOG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,354
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi guys! I got tired of reading after 5 pages for now. Just wanted to say one thing that I didn`t see corrected in the first 5 pages. Sealants and wax are not protecting against bird bombs. Coatings maybe so but sealants and waxes get burned through in a matter of minutes when faced with bird bomb. Maybe some birds... Depending on whether they had taco bell or not won`t go through but I have watched twice where the bird bomb went through and I wasn`t away from the car for long... Got it off quick and had to lightly polish later but it certainly ate throughout the sealant.

  13. #103

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by David Fermani
    Is beading indicative of protection?
    In the eighties I was using this soft paste wax stuff, which you wiped on and hosed off. No drying, just hit it with a hose. It was great, went on in a second, and did not bead. No water spots ever. The water just sheeted itself dry. It could almost dry itself in the rain. It was cheap but only lasted about a week.



    Now I use Zymol Carbon, but if I could find it I would use it again. Sheeting is way better than beading. Does anyone remember what that product was called?



    My guess is the product was primarily Teflon. It made water roll off, but could not stick to the molecules on each side of itself to form a longer lasting layer. It should have been perfect for used car lots.
    Quote Originally Posted by salty
    I was thinking of polishing without a LSP and after the polishing oils and initial slickness goes away, the paint might sheet water a lot better.
    It is like the emperors new clothes. High school kids want beading, when beading really is the problem. Why would anyone want to coat something with oils, just so it can make little beads containing harmful minerals, and focusing sunlight like a magnifying glass on there cars?
    Quote Originally Posted by GoudyL
    Yes, the water beading means the water is not touching the surface of the paint.
    Levitating or not, the beads are for sure sitting on top of the paint. It dries up and whatever was in it sits on top. It would be better if it just sheeted itself away, and whatever is in it, at the beginning.
    The best way to protect the paint, is to keep it on the car in the first place.
    The best way to protect from water spots, is to keep the beads off of the car in the first place.
    Quote Originally Posted by David Fermani
    .. when they do no more than leave .. oil on the surface. .. aides in washing and gives us the perceived notion that because the water is beading, there`s something on the surface that is preserving it.
    The water beading IS the problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Murphy
    The paint beads and it`s not falling off. What more can you ask for?
    You could ask for the water to fall off of the car in the first place. Water on the car is not so bad, it is leaving it there until it evaporates, that cannot be good, no matter what size and shape are the emperors beads.

  14. #104

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    86,975
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by CEE DOG
    Hi guys! I got tired of reading after 5 pages for now. Just wanted to say one thing that I didn`t see corrected in the first 5 pages. Sealants and wax are not protecting against bird bombs. Coatings maybe so but sealants and waxes get burned through in a matter of minutes when faced with bird bomb. Maybe some birds....


    I`ve had those "devil bird" droppings too, and they sure can eat through many LSPs in a heartbeat. But FWIW, I`ve *never* had any etc through heavily layered applications of either KSG or FK1000P. As I`ve posted before, I don`t even bother cleaning them off between regular washes any more.



    While there`s always that chance that *nothing* will protect against some awful dropping, I continue to be amazed by how well those two products can protect. Gotta get a lot of layers on there though...

  15. #105

    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Lake Hopatcong NJ
    Posts
    13
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Sumflow
    It dries up and whatever was in it sits on top. It would be better if it just sheeted itself away, and whatever is in it, at the beginning.The best way to protect from water spots, is to keep the beads off of the car in the first place.The water beading IS the problem.You could ask for the water to fall off of the car in the first place. Water on the car is not so bad, it is leaving it there until it evaporates, that cannot be good, no matter what size and shape are the emperors beads.[/SIZE]


    I have to agree, my Civic DD has been polished and never waxed by me and it always looks good, nothing really sticks to it! My GTO which is always waxed or sealed up shows the dirt and water spots much more!



    I think a properly maintained car (washed frequently, compounded/ polished when necessary, and maybe waxed with a cleaner wax annualy or every 6 months) is the basic key- Although my GTO gets FAR more attention then that, the above regimen is what I give to my parents cars and they look great!

 

 
Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst 12345678 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Best Waxes & Sealants
    By akimel in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 32
    Last Post: 11-17-2011, 09:56 AM
  2. Top 5 Waxes - Top 5 Sealants
    By DETAILKING in forum Waxes, Sealants, and LSP's
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 10-26-2009, 09:41 AM
  3. The best waxes and sealants?
    By imported_akimel in forum Waxes, Sealants, and LSP's
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 07-11-2009, 03:50 AM
  4. Spray WOWA sealants vs. paste waxes and liquid wax/sealants
    By Inzane in forum Car Detailing Product Discussion
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 12-05-2008, 07:07 PM
  5. Waxes and sealants
    By Knight in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 42
    Last Post: 01-08-2003, 10:10 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •