Originally Posted by Dsoto87
---------------
Please buy a bottle of distilled water, any brand and read the pH yourself with a pH meter.
Question is: Is Distilled Water = Pure Water?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Originally Posted by Dsoto87
---------------
Please buy a bottle of distilled water, any brand and read the pH yourself with a pH meter.
Question is: Is Distilled Water = Pure Water?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Oh my, I got your point, but I don`t think you`ve got torts point yet.
By the standard pH scale, pure water=7. there`s no arguing that. That means pure H2O with no other type of dissolved solids or chemicals.
Maybe your going by some non standard pH scale. I don`t know.
If distilled water doesn`t have a pH of 7 than its not pure.
Originally Posted by Dsoto87
---------------
If distilled water is not pure water, What it pure water?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
H2O=pure water. Just because it is distilled doesn`t mean its pure.
Liquor is distilled multiple times to make it more pure.
You talk about how you calibrate multiple pH readers yet you don`t know where to find pure water. The manufacture usually can supply you or any science supply store should have it.
Originally Posted by Dsoto87
--------------------
The tap water reading average pH 7.
The distilled water I buy by drums does not average pH 7.
Which is pure and which is not pure?
Tell me where you people buy pure distilled water that reads pH 7.
I will buy by the drums!
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Has anyone compiled a list of vehicles which came from the factory with coated leather?
No need for a list - this is simple to test. [We generally test with a foam cleaner rather than "pure water" (!) as it has a higher level of surfactant and will overcome any issues with leather that has been waterproofed]
Put some foam cleaner on the surface of the leather and leave for a few seconds. If the foam remains on the surface then you have a coated leather. Most auto leather (about 99%) falls into this category.
If the foam leaves a dark patch then you have a leather that is absorbent and it will have little surface coating. (There is generally some clear coat finish on the surface as pure aniline would not be used as it would be totally impossible to keep clean).
If the leather is absorbent due to the break down of the coating this should be pretty obvious as it would show cracking, ingrained dirt etc. but high wear areas may give this reading on occassions - just do several tests on different areas and see the results. This would certainly be the time for restoration if this was the case.
There are always some special editions which catch us out every now and again but aniline style leather is fairly rare (King Ranch use it I know) - protection is crucial in these cases to make them more practical to look after.
Nubuck/suede which would give a very absorbent reading are thankfully rare. These are generally waterproofed and if you test with water it would bead up on the surface and give a false reading which is why foam gives a better test.
The colour of the seats will also be an indication of whether the leather is coated or not. Generally speaking aniline style leathers (non coated) come in very earthy natural colours. If leather is cream, beige, yellow, red, blue etc. this has generally been pigment coated to achieve that colour (there are of course with leather always some exceptions to this rule and nubuck/suede can be any colour)
There is a simple 5 step test you can follow which gives a very accurate reading of the type and state of the leather you have before starting any process:
Visual
Touch
Scratch (uncoated leathers scratch more easily)
Moisture (as above)
Microscope
These give a very accurate picture of the leather, how it will react to cleaning and indicate any problem areas you might have before you start.
The microscope test will also show any areas of micro cracking which will determine (particularly on cream leathers) how clean the leather will look after your cleaning process. Micro cracking on pale colours always makes it look slightly dirty but no amount of cleaning will get these areas free of all the dirt and this is the correct stage to consider some low level of restoration.
Cleaning is as much about the state of the leather you are dealing with and the method you use as well as the product. All three will determine the results you get not one taken in isolation.
Hope this helps
pH of pure water is not defined to be 7. I don`t know why people keep saying that???
Imagine the joy in calling Leather Masters for product support?
But thanks for clearing things up before I made a purchase!
Judy- sounds like most leather interiors won`t truly benefit from a "feeding" with fatliquor as they are coated, correct?
Detailing Technology - specialista vernice di correzione
Entertaining thread in a way, Judy (IMHO) wins the debate with that last post. Doesn`t mean I agree 100% for reasons already stated several times.
Originally Posted by wfedwar
Maybe because it is by definition.
pH
WikiAnswers - What is the PH level of pure water
pH - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The pH Scale, What is pH Scale? - TutorVista.com
CHEMISTS! Why is the pH of pure of water not 7? - Yahoo! Answers
Our Technical Director used to be LM Tech Dept Head in the early days of LM/Stainsafe in the USA and in those days you would have got good product support but I am not sure who is around these days to give that level of expertise. Something we major on over here as all our technicians know they can phone for support and advice any time.Imagine the joy in calling Leather Masters for product support?
Judy- sounds like most leather interiors won`t truly benefit from a "feeding" with fatliquor as they are coated, correct?
Correct. The best way to make your leather last longer and in good `condition` is to clean it on a regular basis so that dirt is not allowed to damage the finish/pigment on the leather.
The simplest way to make it easier to clean is to protect it which will also stop dye transfer from occuring on pale leathers.
Hope this helps
There is much to cover, although this simple thread is only “Leather Cleaner Recommend”.
We have gone into such details, as defining this and that - mind boggling.
Might as well throw in the essential that we can profit from it!
Academic is one thing, what’s practical is availability, profitability and leather-safe both to the user and the environment therefore product used should be:
1: Leather-Safe (otherwise neutralize to leather neutral)
1: Non Hazardous
2: Non Carcinogenic
3: Non Fire Hazards
4: Non or low VOC
5: Non Toxic
6: Ecological Friendly - biodegradable
I believe you will be interested to discuss the “How-To” of these topics as well, to boost your confidence as an auto leather service provider, that you will be confident to take in autos of any make with high-end leather interior without those “plastic-like impervious urethane topcoats” - like the “King Ranch” mentioned by judyb above.
The General Structure of Leather Cleaning & Conditioning Auto Leather Interior for discussion is as follows:
You may add what’s missing of peculiar leather service request from customers from the past to the below:
1: Spots & Stains Removing
Bleaching Dye Stains
Blood Stains Removing
Ballpoint Ink Stain Removing
Dye Transfer Stain Removing
Permanent Marker and other Solvent-based Stain Removing
Oil and Grease Stain Removing
Protein-based Stain Removing
Spew Removing
Wine, Coffee, Tea and other Tannin Stain Removing
Metallic Stain Removing
Urine Stain Removing
Oxidized and Hydrolyzed Yellow Effect Removing
2: pH Neutralizing
Low acidic exposure - example maybe battery water (rare).
High alkaline exposure that result in - brightness, streaks, tackiness, sliminess, etc (common).
3: Antimicrobial Treatment
Controlling Bacteria Activities - flood damaged leather interior
Controlling Mold Infestation - flood damaged leather interior
General Sanitizing that retards microbial activities
4: Deodorizing
Body and Animal Odor Removing
Smoke Odor Removing
5: Preconditioning - Severity and Types of Soiling
Super Cleaner for Greasy Soiling
Strong Cleaner for Heavy Soiling
6: Cleaning
All Purpose Leather Cleaning
7: Acidify Rinsing to Leather-Neutral
All Purpose Leather Rinsing
8: Hydrating
Hydrating Dried Leather - Helps separates crush and stick together leather fibrils thus opens up the inter-fibrillary spaces for leather seating breathing comfort.
Water marks from flood damaged leather interior.
9: Structure-Conditioning
Softening and Strengthen Leather - Helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.
10: Leather Protecting
Protecting against UV, Stains, Sticky Soiling, Wear and Tear.
11: Sensuous Leather Scenting
Imparting a Classic Leather Scent - “the scent of leather is more leathery than the leather itself” - it charms both man and woman through the centuries...a priceless commodity of olde!
12: Feel-Conditioning
Imparting a tactile feel - Buttery, Draggy, Waxy or Silky - remember the video on “fatliquoring” mentioning that leather feels “buttery” - have you experience it?
By the way there is a General Leather Repair & Refinishing Structure too - if you are interested!
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Why not put some cream on it and have the cat lick it off, cleans, non toxic, blah blah
Very funny!
SPCA approved?
I must then add:
No Cruelty to both Man and Animal when performing Leather Cleaning and Conditioning related task!
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Originally Posted by JuneBug
----------
Opps!!
You should also define your "cream"
Be specific, do your cream penetrates, pH value, waterbased or oilbased, etc.
"LOL"
funny!
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks