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  1. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Striker
    I heard that Leather Masters CONDITIONER is water based and this is what im looking for. Can someone confirm this and direct me to the proper link? I see that they have a couple different conditioners and im not sure which one to go with.


    Go with the Protection cream.

  2. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by jfelbab
    Woolite and water; 1:10 for gentle cleaning and 1:6 for a stronger cleaner. I mix up these two dilutions in spray bottles for the cars I do.



    For commercial products I look to Leather Masters. They make a Strong Cleaner and a Soft Cleaner. I`ve used both and it is what I use on my own cars.



    I follow with Leather Masters Protection Cream which is not oily or slippery.



    Leather Master Products


    Is there a specific woolite I`m suppose to get? I think there are different types.

  3. #18
    Forza Auto Salon David Fermani's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfelbab

    The fact that it dries and is not oily is the main reason I like it. Most other conditioning products I`ve used are oily and actually leave the leather tacky or slippery.




    Woolite 10 to 1 leaves a slick and soft residue behind. I usually had to wipe/flush it off a couple times for it to feel bare. That`s the residue that I feel makes resoiling return faster than normal.
    Metro Detroit`s leader in cleaning, preserving & perfecting fine automobiles!

  4. #19

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    Thanks guys. So a regular leather cleaner is nothing like leather master....



    I dont see any info on dilution. Was this stuff made to be use as is? Is it a put in a spray bottle type of thing or pour and scrub type of thing?

  5. #20
    jfelbab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Fermani
    Woolite 10 to 1 leaves a slick and soft residue behind. I usually had to wipe/flush it off a couple times for it to feel bare. That`s the residue that I feel makes resoiling return faster than normal.


    After applying the cleaner and working up a foam I wipe down with a damp MF. I follow with another damp (wrung out) microfiber to be sure to remove all traces of detergent then I use a dry MF to buff dry. No matter which cleaner you use I believe you should be sure to remove all traces of the detergent.



    The usual conditioning products are the things I feel make for faster re-soiling. These conventional conditioning products seem to leave a tacky or oily surface that attracts and holds dust and dirt. The LM protection cream doesn`t do that and that is why I am so fond of using it.

  6. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Striker
    I heard that Leather Masters CONDITIONER is water based and this is what im looking for. Can someone confirm this and direct me to the proper link? I see that they have a couple different conditioners and im not sure which one to go with.


    Leather Masters Vital Conditioner, followed by the Protection cream. The conditioner is water-based, I`m not sure about the protection cream.

  7. #22

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    That sounds promising! Imma go git some.

  8. #23
    CEE DOG's Avatar
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    I bought Lexol Cleaner and some Lexol Conditioner based on a lot of stuff I read. I thought this was great but I haven`t used it yet and I saw this thread. Anybody got any comments from experience?

  9. #24
    judyb's Avatar
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    LM products are all water based including their fluorocarbon protector - this was one of the first fluorocarbon protectors on the market and whilst it is not the strongest one there is it is a far better option than no protector or using `conditioning` products. LM Strong Cleaner is perfectly safe to use on auto leather at full strength and does not require any dilution. Leather Vital does not contain any protection element and is merely a `feel good` factor for leather. It should be used in addition to Leather Protector.



    Woolite is not recommended for use on leather as it cannot be rinsed off. It is designed to clean clothing and fabrics in a situation where they can be fully rinsed free of the detergent after cleaning. As this cannot happen with leather it will leave residues on the surface that will attract more dirt which is what does the damage to leather finishes.



    Hope this helps

  10. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by judyb
    LM products are all water based including their fluorocarbon protector - this was one of the first fluorocarbon protectors on the market and whilst it is not the strongest one there is it is a far better option than no protector or using `conditioning` products. LM Strong Cleaner is perfectly safe to use on auto leather at full strength and does not require any dilution. Leather Vital does not contain any protection element and is merely a `feel good` factor for leather. It should be used in addition to Leather Protector.



    Woolite is not recommended for use on leather as it cannot be rinsed off. It is designed to clean clothing and fabrics in a situation where they can be fully rinsed free of the detergent after cleaning. As this cannot happen with leather it will leave residues on the surface that will attract more dirt which is what does the damage to leather finishes.



    Hope this helps


    So, since Woolite is not good for leather seating. Why does everyone always use? Is it because it`s cheap. Do the detailers not care that they are decreasing the wear life of the seats? Also making the seat more ap to stain easier, as you said. What do you recommend as a good leather cleaner and conditioner?

  11. #26
    STUTTGART'S FINEST Deanski's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by judyb

    Woolite is not recommended for use on leather as it cannot be rinsed off. It is designed to clean clothing and fabrics in a situation where they can be fully rinsed free of the detergent after cleaning. As this cannot happen with leather it will leave residues on the surface that will attract more dirt which is what does the damage to leather finishes.



    Hope this helps


    So I guess you`ve not looked at a Lexus manual or other manuals from auto mfg`s suggesting to use a mild detergent or Woolite.



    I`ve used it for years on many vehicles with no ill effect and yes, it can be "rinsed" in that white cotton towels are used to gauge the level of dirt as I rinse with distilled water mist.



    Cleaners for leather are nothing more than a soap, coloring fragrence and maybe some glycerin.



    I`m not knocking LM product as I too use the products with great success.



    Yes, Woolite is cheap, at hand. I`ve yet to see any degrading effects by using it properly, which inclused drying the leather seats prior to any "treatment".



    Deanski
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  12. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darkstar752
    Leather Masters Vital Conditioner, followed by the Protection cream. The conditioner is water-based, I`m not sure about the protection cream.


    What`s the difference between the two? Im gonna assume that they work together as a combo.

  13. #28
    jfelbab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Striker
    What`s the difference between the two? Im gonna assume that they work together as a combo.


    Leather Vital Conditioner

    Leather Master Vital



    Protection Cream

    Leather Master Protection Cream



    Use the Leather Vital if you want softening of older leather. Use the Protection cream to preserve, and well... protect your leather.



    LM has a pretty complete line of products, BTW.

    Cleaners, Protectors, Ink lifters, Dyes, products for Nubuck, Suede, Oiled leathers,

    leather repair kit, vinyl repair kit, leather cleaner, leather cleaning, leather dye & paint

  14. #29

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    I concur, go with LM Strong and Protect cream, I dont use the Vital.



    I dont use woolite because of the rinsing concern. Though I still wipe the leather down with Distilled water after the strong cleaner.



    To me I treat woolite like dawn. Woolite is meant for sweaters as dawn is meant for frying pans.

  15. #30
    STUTTGART'S FINEST Deanski's Avatar
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    If those of you who choose not to use Woolite, but use a "Leather Cleaner" what to you think is in it? It`s still a mixture of water, soap, coloring, fragance, and other agents.



    Bottom line, you`re still cleaning with a "soap" type detergent. And, most leather cleaners do not instruct rinsing afterwards.



    But those that do rinse, you`re doing the correct way in making sure all cleaner is off the leather. Best way to judge is with 100% white cotton towels to inspect how much dirt or cleaner is left. It also aids in drying the leather as well.



    Bottom line, you want to get whatever you used off the leather along with any dirt to better protect the skin.



    You want to be absolutly sure the leather and whatever is below it is dry before any treatment. And with todays leather, go very lightly. Only the areas where there is quite a bit of wear will absorb more conditioner seeing that the protection that was once on the leather has now worn off.



    LM products work very well and can maintain leather in the best shape possible. Use it sparingly and follow the directions carefully. Do not over-apply any conditioner no matter which brand it is. Treat the leather as if you were applying a sealant, less is better.



    As for other leather products that once were used in tack rooms, it became a marketing idea that they can use it on automotive leathers. They have reformulated it, but it still remains as a tack room leather cleaner/conditioner for unprotected leathers. Some swear by it, but that`s due to treatment of older leathers that had no protection.



    Always use a leather product for it`s intention. Automotive cleaner/protectants for the car and keep the others for home use only.



    So far, I`ve used LM, Zaino, Sonus, 1Z all with very good results and for different reasons. Zaino has a very distinct leather aroma. Sonus does not, but draws it`s smell from the liquor used in tanning of the leather. 1Z has a more mild leather aroma and a more creamy format to it.



    As long as you get all the dirt, oils, sweat etc off leather, you`ll be presearving it longer!



    Deanski
    DR SHINE
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    What`s in YOUR garage? 997 Carrera S.

 

 
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