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  1. #166

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh
    -------------------





    The products information and instruction are found in the main category - Leather Products, Technical, etc.



    You will find the second thread as:



    Leather Cleaners and Conditioners (40 products), Repair (9 products), Auxiliary for Refinishing (5 products) & Color Refinishing (30 products) are listed in Alphabetical Order with Description and Instruction.



    Contact info removed by moderator. That makes two posters in this thread that have crossed the line. Everyone take note: anyone who posts a link to his website, contact info, or promotes his own product line will be banned immediately, no more warnings. -- Tort


    So. I guess he should have PMed me the info. I didn`t see any other posts edited, who was the other offender?

  2. #167
    jfelbab's Avatar
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    I mentioned this previously but after following this entire thread, I`m sticking with a cleaner that is the same pH as the material I`m cleaning, in this case the polyurethane topcoat on the leather. That topcoat is a nominal pH7, BTW.



    One reason for my decision is that I have an 18 YO vehicle that I clean regularly with a pH7 cleaner and the protected leather still looks factory new, no wear, no cracking, no hardening, no scum buildup. My own long term experience dictates that what I use works.



    Oh, one more thing about cleaning soap scum from a shower door and sink.



    TIP: If you wipe down your shower door with a clean (wrung-out) mf immediately after you use it you won`t have any soap scum build-up to worry about trying to remove later. The same holds true for your sink. If you wipe it down with a damp MF and then buff with a dry mf after use there will be no scum buildup. Try it and see for yourself.



    The same obviously holds true for the cleaner on my protected leather. After 18 years of using a pH7 cleaner I have no detergent buildup. That`s because I wipe off all traces of the detergent and buff the leather topcoat dry after cleaning.



    I believe strongly that the single most important thing we can do to preserve our protected automotive leathers is to keep them clean.

  3. #168
    Forza Auto Salon David Fermani's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfelbab



    One reason for my decision is that I have an 18 YO vehicle that I clean regularly with a pH7 cleaner and the protected leather still looks factory new, no wear, no cracking, no hardening, no scum buildup. My own long term experience dictates that what I use works.



    After 18 years of using a pH7 cleaner I have no detergent buildup.


    :showpics:hide::LOLOL
    Metro Detroit`s leader in cleaning, preserving & perfecting fine automobiles!

  4. #169

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    Great thread. Cant wait until the owners manual will tell me how to correct paint too.

  5. #170
    STUTTGART'S FINEST Deanski's Avatar
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    Holy Crap:







    This is getting nuts!



    Deanski
    DR SHINE
    Swanky Shine (tm)
    What`s in YOUR garage? 997 Carrera S.

  6. #171
    judyb's Avatar
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    Just been spending some time checking out Rogers fatliquoring claims with the American Leather Chemists Association (of which we are associate members) and came across this interesting quote:



    " Fatliquor is not volatile nor migratory, so leather is not going to lose it.

    However, along with the fatliquor, the other critical factor is moisture. Any leather is going to lose its moisture in a not car. Although leather seems dry, it is not. Of course too much moisture quickly leads to mold and mildew problems, so soaking it down is not reasonable. Ideally, exposure to humid atmosphere will help balance the effect of over drying on hot days. Leather is very dynamic with respect to moisture content, meaning moisture comes and goes easily under normal circumstances...."



    Hope this helps

  7. #172

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    Quote Originally Posted by judyb
    Just been spending some time checking out Rogers fatliquoring claims with the American Leather Chemists Association (of which we are associate members) and came across this interesting quote:



    " Fatliquor is not volatile nor migratory, so leather is not going to lose it.

    However, along with the fatliquor, the other critical factor is moisture. Any leather is going to lose its moisture in a not car. Although leather seems dry, it is not. Of course too much moisture quickly leads to mold and mildew problems, so soaking it down is not reasonable. Ideally, exposure to humid atmosphere will help balance the effect of over drying on hot days. Leather is very dynamic with respect to moisture content, meaning moisture comes and goes easily under normal circumstances...."



    Hope this helps


    ---------------------



    So, what is this white haze or film you see on this old brown leather surface?



    Please clarify?







    Roger Koh

  8. #173
    judyb's Avatar
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    As I have said on the other forum Roger this may be `spew` (caused by the inbalance of fatliquors in the leather) this is a specific problem with a specific product to solve it. This is a stabilisng product and does not replace the fat liquors.



    The fat liquors in `spewing` have become destabilised wither during the retanning process or subsequent environmental conditions. If fat liquors were lost on a regular basis all our leather would develop a white haze as a general rule.



    It could be any number of things form salts to talcum powder - a picture cannot always tell the full story and we would ned to examine the item to verify the correct proceedure for this particular case.

  9. #174

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    Thought I`d post my story here, hoping to get some intelligent responses..



    A couple weeks ago, I left my sunroof open over the weekend. I live in NC and it get`s pretty hot during the summer so I like to keep my sunroof open so it`s not a sauna when i get in the car on Monday mornings. Anyways, it ended up raining Sunday night and my 2005 VW Passat black leather seats got totally saturated in Rain water. I`ve been using leathrique over the past couple weeks just about every other day. The rain got so bad that it actually left bubbles in the seat, almost like a bubble pocket. What does the bubble pocket come from? Anyone know? My seats are literally hard as a rock..



    Here are some pictures for those who want to see the damage..





    *



    *


  10. #175
    I see you..... wytstang's Avatar
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    WOW hopefully some one can give some advice on how to deal with that.
    "Life is not measured by the breathes we take, but by the moments that take our breathes away" :punk:

  11. #176

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    I hate this thread. I personally do not believe it`s helpful one bit, and I am no closer to knowing what the best way is to take care of my Audi`s leather after reading it.



    I think I`m going to just use undiluted Purple Power and a wire brush. And condition it with gasoline mixed with IPA.

  12. #177

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    Quote Originally Posted by rlarsen462
    I hate this thread. I personally do not believe it`s helpful one bit, and I am no closer to knowing what the best way is to take care of my Audi`s leather after reading it.



    I think I`m going to just use undiluted Purple Power and a wire brush. And condition it with gasoline mixed with IPA.


    That`s exactly how I clean and treat my leather. My leather is 97 years old and still looks like brand new!!!!!! :woot:

  13. #178

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    [quote name=`Pardity`]Thought I`d post my story here, hoping to get some intelligent responses..



    A couple weeks ago, I left my sunroof open over the weekend. I live in NC and it get`s pretty hot during the summer so I like to keep my sunroof open so it`s not a sauna when i get in the car on Monday mornings. Anyways, it ended up raining Sunday night and my 2005 VW Passat black leather seats got totally saturated in Rain water. I`ve been using leathrique over the past couple weeks just about every other day. The rain got so bad that it actually left bubbles in the seat, almost like a bubble pocket. What does the bubble pocket come from? Anyone know? My seats are literally hard as a rock..







    ---







    Bubble pocket…leather hard as rock!



    When leather is wet (the pH of this damaging water is the culprit for certainly it was not leather-safe pH 3 - 5).



    That’s why most fashion leather jackets have labels that often read “Dry Clean Only”.



    So, non leather-safe water can be damaging to leather as in this case.



    The fatliquor has somehow diminishes (breaks bonds) with the protein leather fibrils.



    Therefore when the leather dries without the present of fatliquor that has lubricate these millions of fibrils that acts like connecting hinges becomes “hard as rock”.



    That`s the "Van der Waal Forces" phenomenon theory that works against you!



    Just like door hinges after floods refused to move - stuck!



    The bubble pocket comes from leather tension differentiation - requires hydration with relaxation thereafter fatliquoring to replenish what’s lost.



    If you believe so far what I say - I will follow up with the logical remedy.



    What do you think?





    Roger Koh

    Be Patience with me I’m just a Leather Doctor!

  14. #179

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh
    [quote name=`Pardity`]Thought I`d post my story here, hoping to get some intelligent responses..



    A couple weeks ago, I left my sunroof open over the weekend. I live in NC and it get`s pretty hot during the summer so I like to keep my sunroof open so it`s not a sauna when i get in the car on Monday mornings. Anyways, it ended up raining Sunday night and my 2005 VW Passat black leather seats got totally saturated in Rain water. I`ve been using leathrique over the past couple weeks just about every other day. The rain got so bad that it actually left bubbles in the seat, almost like a bubble pocket. What does the bubble pocket come from? Anyone know? My seats are literally hard as a rock..







    ---







    Bubble pocket…leather hard as rock!



    When leather is wet (the pH of this damaging water is the culprit for certainly it was not leather-safe pH 3 - 5).



    That’s why most fashion leather jackets have labels that often read “Dry Clean Only”.



    So, non leather-safe water can be damaging to leather as in this case.



    The fatliquor has somehow diminishes (breaks bonds) with the protein leather fibrils.



    Therefore when the leather dries without the present of fatliquor that has lubricate these millions of fibrils that acts like hinges becomes “hard as rock”.



    Just like door hinges after floods refused to move - stuck!



    The bubble pocket comes from leather tension differentiation - requires hydration with relaxation thereafter fatliquoring to replenish what’s lost.



    The “Van der Waal Forces” phenomenon theory applies!



    If you believe so far what I say - I will follow up with the logical remedy.



    What do you think?





    Roger Koh

    Just me Patience with me I’m just a Leather Doctor!




    Hey Roger, seems you know a lot about leather where as I don`t.. I`m desperate to getting my seats looking at least normal.. The leathrique is somewhat working but not at the pace I would like, it`s defiantly not doing anything to the bubble.. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

  15. #180
    judyb's Avatar
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    The damage has been caused by the over saturation of leather with water . Although water is generally good for leather when it is over soaked (as in the case here) it will excessively swell the fibres which then become distorted and when they dry back they remain in this distorted state.

    As the fibres of the leather have been damaged and stretched there is probably very little that can be done to restore these areas to their former state. Adding more and more products to these areas will not rectify the situation and could make it worse.

    Hope this helps

 

 
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