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[gmblack3]

Thanks John for the great report.

[TigerMike]

Q: How durable is CS? Is CS a booster?



A: I’ve seen several remarks about CS having 3 months of durability, or being a booster product. Based on my uses, CS is as durable as other sealers in the Zaino line up. It’s the first ‘spray on’ pure sealer that I’ve used. I’ve had CS on freshly polished paint (on my Black Tahoe roof) for 4+ months and it’s still slick and the beading is strong. The only thing that has touched the paint is Z7 soap, water, and a WW drying towel. No QD, No Booster.

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for. I am more interested in the CS now, after clearing up some of these things. Would you happen to have any pics of the beading at this point? I suppose it would work atop cured Duragloss 105 sealant?



Regards,



Mike

[mgm2003]

Thank you, exactly what I was looking for. I am more interested in the CS now, after clearing up some of these things. Would you happen to have any pics of the beading at this point? I suppose it would work atop cured Duragloss 105 sealant?



Regards,



Mike

Mike, It`s supposed to rain this Saturday and Sunday. I have CS over PS on my hood, CS over Z-AIO on the vertical panels, and the roof is still `virgin` CS. If the weather holds true I`ll take a few shots to post up.



I have DG 105, but have not tried CS over it, but based on the other products that I`ve used I don`t see you having a problem as long as you apply CS over cured DG. Make sense?

[TigerMike]

Mike, It`s supposed to rain this Saturday and Sunday. I have CS over PS on my hood, CS over Z-AIO on the vertical panels, and the roof is still `virgin` CS. If the weather holds true I`ll take a few shots to post up.



I have DG 105, but have not tries CS over it, but based on the other products that I`ve used I don`t see you having a problem as long as you apply CS over cured DG. Make sense?

That would be a great help to see your shots, I would appreciate it!





Cool, that`s what I thought on applying it over another sealant...just wait until it is fully cured, then apply. Makes good sense to me. Thanks for your help, much appreciated.



Regards,



Mike

[imported_memnuts]

Excellent summary of 32 pages and your experiences, MGM. :xyxthumbs

[mgm2003]

Thank You.



CS had a learning curve, and I`m trying to share.



For example, when I first used CS, I tried applying it with a German foam, Meg`s foam, Zaino cotton, and MF applicator -and got varying results from all of them. It drove me NUTS! I tried several more times, and still, it stumped me. Sometimes it was *Perfect* others it was not. After a lot of trial and error I found..... for CS to dry optically clear you need to have a few things in place:



a) Dry surface.

If you pick up water drips, or apply to damp paint, CS repels the moisture and doesn`t dry properly.



b) You have to wipe ALL polish residue off of your paint -or- BETTER stated, QD or ISO your surface prior to applying CS. I got lazy, and it caused problems.

I thought I was removing all residue from my paint after polishing, but when I shut my garage doors, turned off the lights, and placed a flashlight on my paint in full dark, I had very faint polish residue in places, which was smearing over the paint during CS application. An ISO wipe, or Z6 wipe takes care of it.



c) Start with a fresh applicator.



That means a brand new, never used, never washed applicator.



Applicators that had been washed out or used with other products, etc... would all transfer to the paint and cause a haze. Since then, I`ve been using 1 applicator for my paint, glass, lighting, and trim, and another for my wheels. I keep them in a zip lock bag. If they pick up dirt, etc.. I retire them to tire dressing chores.



If you think about it, CS REALLY shows just how well you prep your surface. If you leave something behind, it will show it. It`s actually helped me pay more attention, because I tested A LOT on black paint, and you guys know how unforgiving black is.

[imported_Bence]

This new applicator part is a massive :grinno:

[imported_memnuts]

John,

I had similiar trials with different applicators, even though Sal instructed to use cotton (new) applicators. I too was curious and wanted to test other possiblities.



Sponge(new) - failed - the cheapest alternative for one-time usage.

MF (new) - ok but too expensive to use a new one after each session.

Cotton - works great. Easily found locally with good quality.



This is a very important point presented by John (MGM). An old but clean appearing applicator will produce a hazy or not CS clear appearance from embedded residual (wax, sealant, QD, detergent, water contaminates, etc).

Beta-testing can be soooo frustrating some times. Our errors will save others from similiar misfortunes.

[imported_memnuts]

This new applicator part is a massive :grinno:

This product will be massive and a 50 cent applicator will not even lessen the:woot2: if one chooses to insert this product into their arsenal.

[mgm2003]

This new applicator part is a massive :grinno:

Bence, Maybe it`s `routine` for others, and not for me. When I wash applictors by hand, then double wash them in the machine with detergent & vinegar 99% of the time they work fine for reuse on most any product. CS was the exception for me.



Sorry if I re-stated the obvious for many. It wasn`t `clear` to me for a while.

[MattPersman]

good info, that new applicator deal may not appeal to everyone. I am not sure it does to me really yet.



the product sounds great, except for the new applicator each time. call me a cheap ***, but I don`t like the ZFX thing either but at least an applicator is cheaper than the vials



thanks for the honest detailed information :xyxthumbs

[imported_memnuts]

good info, that new applicator deal may not appeal to everyone. I am not sure it does to me really yet.



the product sounds great, except for the new applicator each time. call me a cheap ***, but I don`t like the ZFX thing either but at least an applicator is cheaper than the vials



thanks for the honest detailed information :xyxthumbs

This is how Zaino functions. Test products to the Nth degree and after instruct everyone how to properly use them to achieve maximal results.



This information will be in the instructions and likely on the website. Like some beta testers, people will not adhere to this requirement (testing for faults) and than jump up and down that the product did not function as stated. It would best that this "non-adhering" to instruction user not purchase this product.



The only non-detailing analogy I can think of is someone not purchasing a hi-performance automobile because it requires premium fuel. Sometimes there is a small additional price for performance. Ante-up or buy the econo-box if the price per gallon is the deciding factor or the hi-performance machine and use regular fuel and never feel its full potential. :nixweiss

[mgm2003]

good info, that new applicator deal may not appeal to everyone. I am not sure it does to me really yet.



the product sounds great, except for the new applicator each time. call me a cheap ***, but I don`t like the ZFX thing either but at least an applicator is cheaper than the vials



thanks for the honest detailed information :xyxthumbs

MattPersman:

I don`t use a `new` applicator each time.



I`ve been getting 5+ uses per applicator on the paint, and 3-4 on the wheels, per each side of the applicator. I store them each in separate zip lock bags for re-use, and haven`t found myself spending a lot of $ on applicator pads . I hope this helps, or at least adds some clarity.



One other thing to add, on an above post from me regarding QD & ISO wipes..



I use ISO to wipe the paint after *polishing*. If you ISO wipe over a LSP, you risk removing the product. In all other cases, I QD (prefer Z6, but others work also), before applying CS.

[wannafbody]

Does CS work best by spritzing it directly on the paint or by spraying it on the applicator?

[mgm2003]

Does CS work best by spritzing it directly on the paint or by spraying it on the applicator?

Misting directly to the paint works best for me.



I`ve primed the pad with CS before starting, and also started with a dry pad, and can`t tell much of a difference.