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  1. #16

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    Wow very nice DavidB. I`m new to all this detailing and trying real hard to learn as much as I can to repair my own vehicle. My thing is the brushes at the coin-ops look a little shady, I don`t know if they are paint safe etc. Chemicals to be are sub-par to about par but its cheap and convenient, I`m just concerned about creating tiny scratches.



    Thanks again DavidB.

  2. #17

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    Those brushes are going to DESTROY your paint. I tried polishing out my buddy`s eclipse the other day and it was a nightmare. He took it to the local wash station and used the brush because it was convenient too. If you can afford it, get some waterless wash product. ONR, HD Free, etc... You will find that this stuff is just as convenient and MUCH safer for your paint.

  3. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by TypeRlover
    My thing is the brushes at the coin-ops look a little shady, I don`t know if they are paint safe etc.


    Even if they were paint safe when new, you have to assume they have been used used by a bunch of Ya-Hoos to scrub the mud and gunk off of their ATV and 4x4. So, now they are nothing more than sandpaper on a stick.



    I suggest you take these essential items to your coin-op wash when you go:



    - 3-5 gallon bucket

    - Wheel/fender brush

    - Sponge or wash mitt

    - All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) of choice

    - Waterless car wash of choice in spray bottle

    - Drying towels



    When you get to the coin-op, pull into the bay with the most shade and get your cleaning supplies out (minus the towels and the waterless wash) and put them by the coin-op machine.



    Before putting money in the machine, spray all four tires and wheels with your APC. At the same time, do a quick walk around and lightly spray any heavy areas of bugs or road grease. Now, turn the dial to "High Pressure Rinse" put your money in the machine. Before rinsing the vehicle, stick the nozzle in your bucket and fill it. Now, rinse your car, making sure to get up under the wheel wells, grill areas, and under the bumpers. If you still have time on the clock, turn the dial to "Spot Free Rinse" and finish rinsing with deionized water.



    The bucket of fresh water is for scrubbing your tires and wheels a second time if needed. You way also need this fresh water to clean your door jambs or to give your towels a good rinsing before your go. In other words, be prepared and leave your dirty water with the coin-op.



    Now you can use your waterless car wash product to finish cleaning and dry your car. Simply spray it liberally over a panel and wipe it dry.



    On your drive home, water will blow out of all the nooks and crannies back onto the side of your car. Don`t worry about it. When you get back home, park your car in the garage or a shaded area area and give it another light wipe down with the waterless wash spray or your favorite detail spray. By now, your tires will also be dry enough to dress.



    Stand back, pop a cold beverage. :goodjob

  4. #19

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    Jul 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidB
    Even if they were paint safe when new, you have to assume they have been used used by a bunch of Ya-Hoos to scrub the mud and gunk off of their ATV and 4x4. So, now they are nothing more than sandpaper on a stick.



    I suggest you take these essential items to your coin-op wash when you go:



    - 3-5 gallon bucket

    - Wheel/fender brush

    - Sponge or wash mitt

    - All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) of choice

    - Waterless car wash of choice in spray bottle

    - Drying towels



    When you get to the coin-op, pull into the bay with the most shade and get your cleaning supplies out (minus the towels and the waterless wash) and put them by the coin-op machine.



    Before putting money in the machine, spray all four tires and wheels with your APC. At the same time, do a quick walk around and lightly spray any heavy areas of bugs or road grease. Now, turn the dial to "High Pressure Rinse" put your money in the machine. Before rinsing the vehicle, stick the nozzle in your bucket and fill it. Now, rinse your car, making sure to get up under the wheel wells, grill areas, and under the bumpers. If you still have time on the clock, turn the dial to "Spot Free Rinse" and finish rinsing with deionized water.



    The bucket of fresh water is for scrubbing your tires and wheels a second time if needed. You way also need this fresh water to clean your door jambs or to give your towels a good rinsing before your go. In other words, be prepared and leave your dirty water with the coin-op.



    Now you can use your waterless car wash product to finish cleaning and dry your car. Simply spray it liberally over a panel and wipe it dry.



    On your drive home, water will blow out of all the nooks and crannies back onto the side of your car. Don`t worry about it. When you get back home, park your car in the garage or a shaded area area and give it another light wipe down with the waterless wash spray or your favorite detail spray. By now, your tires will also be dry enough to dress.



    Stand back, pop a cold beverage. :goodjob


    sounds like a good idea, but how does the waterless wash stuff work when your have a soaked MF from the rinsing???



    i assumed waterless washes worked best with a dry MF and a surface prepped with the waterless wash solution.



    could you explain the waterless wash method after doing the deionized rinse a little better?











    when i did use these bays, i would go in, do a spray and high pressure rinse like you mentioned, but would put a minimal amount of money in..... then i would use my buckets and do a nice wash since i was already there... and then use the deionized water to rinse, pull it out (couldnt dry in the bay). go ahead and dry it, do my post wash wax is needed, and use the detailer or waterless wash to catch streaks from water coming out of cracks later....



    but yeah, +1 on not using the brushes there... friend did that once and i laughed at him and asked him how he liked the swirls and scratches.... he replied "oh dang, so you saw my car?".... i never saw it either, but he thought i did since i told him the brush would do that.



    the sad thing is, a lot of those places have quality brushes, some even have BHB type brushes, but they get ruined after the first guy comes in and brushes off his wheels and tires with it then leaves it sitting there since you are unable to actually rinse it

  5. #20

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    Sep 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleaning Fool
    I ave to admit, I purchased 16 oz of Chemical Guys Waterless wash. I have 4 cars and keeping them clean can be a chore and its time to try an alternative to washing, especially with winter coming soon.


    I bought some about 2 months ago and I will have to say in my opinion this stuff works great. Anybody else out there like this?

  6. #21
    Detailing Gnosis Bunky's Avatar
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    I think a rinseless wash is as eco friendly as a waterless. The difference is the amount of water can be as little as what is used to flush a toilet one time.

    Al
    The Need to Bead


  7. #22

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    Nov 2009
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    I can add to the conversation on the WW and RW. I recently bought a 2009 Infiniti G37x (with the self healing clear coat) and have only ever washed it the ONR one bucket mehod (w/grit in place of course.) If the car is well covered in dirt I have dedicated an extra MF to getting the lower areas out (and if the MF picks up and holds any particles I just swap it out with a fresh MF.) I`ve had it under halogen to really get an idea if there was any swirling or marring and so far it has come out perfect every time.



    I did also get a bottle of Chemical Guys Waterless Wash and tested it out this morning on a somewhat dirty area of my rear bumper. I basically sprayed the area I wanted to test, let it sit for about 10-15 seconds and then wiped with a Plush MF. Then I waited another 10-15 seconds and buffed out the haze that the WW left. It did get the area clean and it was very smooth to the touch so it did do its job. The problem I have with the WW is that you will run out of clean MF area on your towels a lot more quickly than if you went with ONR.



    I`m in the Northeast so I`ve been driving the new ride in bad weather for a majority of this month and every time I can pull it back in the garage and really give it a good quality wash without breaking out the hose is a great thing. ONR followed by a waffle weave to dry one panel at a time is a great way to go.

  8. #23

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    I am glad ther is a forum for this process and I wonder if anyone is using the process in earnest for the environment and truly know that it is GREEN and if there is anyone that has a business for dry detailing in florida thank you all for truly making a stand for our kids future.

  9. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by drywashmaster
    I am glad ther is a forum for this process and I wonder if anyone is using the process in earnest for the environment and truly know that it is GREEN and if there is anyone that has a business for dry detailing in florida thank you all for truly making a stand for our kids future.


    Their are a number of businesses using this model. An international franchise operation that uses it is Prontowash. See www.prontowash.com.

  10. #25

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    Mar 2006
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    I tried CG ONE when it came out...it seems they`ve relabeled it and pushed it harder now calling it a waterless wash...hopefully it is actually a better formula now.



    The old CG ONE wasn`t too bad, but I still wouldn`t ditch ONR for it.



    ONR is still my `minimal water` wash for winter time and when the car just isn`t *that*dirty...which is a lot of the time. Plus, it`s great on trips since I can take two small, short, plastic garbage cans with me and do a two-bucket wash in a parking lot. Get some weird looks, but it works and I have a clean car for the duration of the trip.



    Tried the Dri-WashNGuard products back in 1993-4 or so...really really didn`t like it then at ALL. Kinda can`t believe they`re still around, so hopefully they`ve had some formula advancements as well.

  11. #26

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    Sep 2007
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    My winter wash procedure for use in my unheated garage in Toledo, Ohio:



    1. Mix ONR with warm water in 5 gal. bucket.

    2. Transfer some of the mix to a good pump-up garden sprayer and move to the cold garage with both sprayer and bucket solution.

    3. Spray a good size area with the warm ONRand follow with gentle agitation from the bucket with MF covered sponge.

    4. Dry with clean MF.

    5. Dirtiest areas last.

    6. QD optional if not too cold. I use DG AW but it freezes if too cold.



    I love that ONR.

  12. #27

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    Just my opinion I have been in the car wash business for 16 years or better i do not think my higher end cars would like me dry washing there cars becaus any way you won`t to word it is still a dry wash you can not convince me spraying a product on a dirty car and using friction will not harm paint.I would love to see u clean farmer jon`s truck with out soap or rinsing. just curious how in the world can u clean the wheels fender wells and tires without a pressure washer or water hose. By the way 2 shops located side by side one called Dry wash and detaling. The outher called Car wash and detaling I know witch one I am going to.

  13. #28
    dervdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mblgjr



    Tried the Dri-WashNGuard products back in 1993-4 or so...really really didn`t like it then at ALL. Kinda can`t believe they`re still around,






    One of the first waterless I tried must be 20yrs ago was some stuff called Zoig, maybe before its time eh?

    Its a porn site now ! :grinno:

  14. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by sparklescarwash
    Just my opinion I have been in the car wash business for 16 years or better i do not think my higher end cars would like me dry washing there cars becaus any way you won`t to word it is still a dry wash you can not convince me spraying a product on a dirty car and using friction will not harm paint.I would love to see u clean farmer jon`s truck with out soap or rinsing. just curious how in the world can u clean the wheels fender wells and tires without a pressure washer or water hose. By the way 2 shops located side by side one called Dry wash and detaling. The outher called Car wash and detaling I know witch one I am going to.


    Whether we like waterless washing (dry washing sounds like you are using a dry microfiber to wash) or not, we better get used to it. More and more area`s environmental laws are banning hose washes and I believe some on here have said some areas don`t even allow hose free washes like ONR. I don`t see this movement changing any time soon.



    In Farmer Jon`s truck example, Farmer Jon would need to take his truck down to the coin operating places and spray off his truck first. (The coin op`s are generally not affected by the bans since their run off does not going into storm drains) After spraying off his truck he could then do a waterless wash fairly safely. Again, not as good as a bucket wash but the environmental regulators don`t really care.

  15. #30
    Superior Shine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sparklescarwash
    Just my opinion I have been in the car wash business for 16 years or better i do not think my higher end cars would like me dry washing there cars becaus any way you won`t to word it is still a dry wash you can not convince me spraying a product on a dirty car and using friction will not harm paint.I would love to see u clean farmer jon`s truck with out soap or rinsing. just curious how in the world can u clean the wheels fender wells and tires without a pressure washer or water hose. By the way 2 shops located side by side one called Dry wash and detaling. The outher called Car wash and detaling I know witch one I am going to.




    I`d be embarrassed to admit I had been in car wash business for 16 years and had never taken advantage of the latest products and processes to get vehicles cleaner, faster, all the while putting more $$$$$ in my pocket.



    You need to come out of the darkness and see the light brother.
    The second mouse gets the cheese!

 

 
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