I actually think it would be somewhat awkward to use a side handle when sanding wood. Be much easier just to keep your hand on the back of the head.
I don`t even use the handle with my DeWalt DA. I feel like I have more control.
I actually think it would be somewhat awkward to use a side handle when sanding wood. Be much easier just to keep your hand on the back of the head.
I don`t even use the handle with my DeWalt DA. I feel like I have more control.
USDM,
Glad to hear it`s working well for you! Once you get more time with it, I`m sure you`ll find all kinds of ways to resolve problems.
Sure beats holding my Makita! Sure, there are times the weight is needed for cut and control, but for light duty on stubborn scratches, I`d love to have that than draging out my 9227C.
Keep it up and I know you`ll get this thing down pat and be able to give others assistance in tips/tricks with it!
Regards,
Deanski
DR SHINE
Swanky Shine (tm)
What`s in YOUR garage? 997 Carrera S.
Fair enough.Originally posted by Intel486
I actually think it would be somewhat awkward to use a side handle when sanding wood. Be much easier just to keep your hand on the back of the head.
I don`t even use the handle with my DeWalt DA. I feel like I have more control.
I know when I used to work at my father`s shop full time, I used jitterbugs and pneumatic d/a`s. They weren`t much lighter but they were a bit more compact, so it was easy to use them by the head. Often, I would go so far as use them with one hand. But when it came to using the heavy stuff like grinders (the old school 20lbs Milwalkees`), I had to have a side handle. I did try a few times to use it without the handle, but I never really got a good hang for it (and I was very good with that sucker).
One technique I did try with the Makita is to hold it like I see some of the guys at the shop would hold a buffer; hands a long the body at the mid point. But I found that I still did not have real positive control over the machine. If i moved the machin too quickly, It would apply pressure to the pad, and flatten it a bit. I managed to flatten 2 Meguires polish pads when i used this technique. So there is definitely some weight at the fron of this machine as oppossed to a machine that has more even distribution like the PC or even most rotary buffers. When I tried that same style with the PC on a day when I was just beat, and the bursitus kicked in my right shoulder. I did pretty good, and the pads did not flatten.
Here`s a quick review from a woodworker. Not exactly car detailing, but I think he provides some further reference and perspective:Originally posted by Deanski
USDM,
Glad to hear it`s working well for you! Once you get more time with it, I`m sure you`ll find all kinds of ways to resolve problems.
Sure beats holding my Makita! Sure, there are times the weight is needed for cut and control, but for light duty on stubborn scratches, I`d love to have that than draging out my 9227C.
Keep it up and I know you`ll get this thing down pat and be able to give others assistance in tips/tricks with it!
Regards,
Deanski
[img]TOOL TEST: Tools of the Trade Reviews 6-Inch Right-Angle Sanders
From Stripping Varnish to Fine Sanding, Right-Angle Sanders Do it All
By Chris Kulczycki
I`ve done my fair share of sanding through the years, but it wasn`t until I built boats that I learned the true meaning of the word. Sanding projects were no longer measured in hours, but in long, dusty days and even agonizing weeks. I quickly learned to appreciate sanders that were not only powerful and smooth, but also quiet, vibration-free and fast. Right-angle sanders see heavy-duty use, from jobsites and cabinet shops to boatyards. You might use them to remove paint one day, to finish a built-in the next, and to buff a fine finish the day after that. We tested seven 6-inch, right-angle sanders — the Bosch 1370 DEVS, DeWalt DW443, Fein MSF636-1, Festool Rotex RO150E, Makita BO6040, Milwaukee 6125, and Porter-Cable 97366 — to see which ones could finish their work without finishing-off their operator.
Finishing Quality
The finishing quality of all the tools was very, very close. Choosing the right paper and speed enables any of these sanders to leave a nice finish. If pressed, I`d give the Makita, Festool, and DeWalt tools a slight edge in finishing quality. But in addition to the normal random orbital action found on all of the models, the Festool and Makita tools have another setting that provides more aggressive action. Festool calls this "combined rotary and eccentric action," while Makita labels it "forcible rotation mode." In both cases the pads rotate while adding an eccentric motion to the action. This removes materials faster than regular random orbital action. It doesn`t leave as smooth a finish and tends to grab the wood, but it`s a good feature.
Vibration, Feel, and Switches
In most tool tests I consider a tool`s performance more important than ergonomics. But since I use right-angle sanders for long stretches, comfort is critical. In fact, I`d choose a model that`s quiet, vibration-free, and comfortable to hold over one that`s faster or even more durable.
The Makita and Festool sanders stand out as particularly vibration free and quiet, perhaps due to their larger size and weight. The Porter Cable sander is only a hair behind them. The Fein and DeWalt tools are also good in this regard. But Bosch`s mechanical noise was unpleasant, and Milwaukee`s vibration level was the highest of the bunch; I could feel the effects of this tool after an hour.
The tool bodies vary in shape from the short, bulky Porter-Cable to the long, thin Festool. All the tools were comfortable to hold with the following caveats: Fein`s body is well-shaped, but made of slippery plastic; Porter-Cable`s may be too thick for small hands; and DeWalt`s switch falls right under your palm. The Makita and Festool sanders felt the most comfortable to me.
The heads on most of these sanders are shaped so you can hold them one-handed, like a large palm sander. This is useful for working on horizontal surfaces. I like DeWalt`s rubber bonnet for this task. I found the Milwaukee tool`s head got too hot to hold.
Six of the tools have sliding, lock-on, or rock-on power switches. Only the Milwaukee sander uses a paddle-type switch that you have to hold because there`s no switch lock. This limits the ways you can hold the tool. The Festool was the only sander I managed to switch off accidentally. Its switch is located right where my thumb falls and a little downward pressure rocks it off.
All the sanders have well-designed, comfort side handles that mount on the left or right of the tool heads. The Festool, Makita, and Porter-Cable sanders came in carrying cases, which is a nice bonus.
Favorites
I`d be satisfied with any of these tools, but I do have my favorites. Tool prices range from about $150 to $500, but I didn`t find that performance related directly to cost. In fact, my top pick isn`t the priciest. My first choice is Makita`s BO6040 because of its smooth, powerful, and pleasant performance. The Festool Rotex RO150E is a close second; it`s a super tool and the only problem I had was with the switch location. Porter-Cable`s 97366 is right behind; it`s a great sander at a great price. DeWalt`s DW443 comes next, I didn`t find much wrong with this tool, but the company could improve the switch location. Fein`s MSF636-1 left an excellent finish, but I wonder why such an expensive tool lacks speed control and has such an awkwardly shaped head. Bosch`s sander noise was a negative, as was the ease at which its dust bag fell off. Milwaukee`s 6125 sander follows them all across the finish line.
Chris Kulzycki is a boat builder and writer in West River, Md. He was an instructor at the Wooden Boat School for 10 years.
[/img]
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=111879
these are available in the U.K.
sorry for hijack..........
just shipped a pc from states for about 100 us cheaper.
but it looks a good alternative.
hmmm. with the conversion rate, it would still be cheaper to get either the pc or the makita in the us (assumming you lived in the us).
hey leadfoot, you guys still use pounds or the euro?
still the pound (dunno how much longer though).
the pc is much cheaper to import.
but not having to buy a transformer knocks about 80 dollars of the price of any US power tool.
It also means that warranties will be valid.
If I hadn`t already bought a PC I would have had a good look at the makita.
Cool.
Well guys, finally go the handle and the hex key. However, the
numbers don`t match the numbers on the invoice :huh
I am going to try these things out tommorrow, and see what`s what.
The handle fits, so I am happy about that. For anyone interested, the # is 9227cy, so if you already have a 9227cy buffer, then you should be able to switch the handle from one to the other.
Last edited by usdm; 07-17-2004 at 06:14 PM.
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