Reload Problems

[CEE DOG]

Read those

But this is still oeiginal version

Got 2 bottles of 14 v1 still on shelf

Hi Ronkh, Joseph T asked me to pop over and help you out. Reload version your using should have no issues if used as described below.

Note, streaks are either product not buffed off or product re-deposited by a towel with reload in it instead of a proper dry final wipe towel.

With Reload it cures to the paint much stronger than wax so the difference in application is that you need to wipe it off completely before it flashes off on its own.

1. Shake well
2. Spray only the amount needed for one section (not an entire panel)
3.-IMMEDIATELY spread the product out with a short nap Microfiber Towel (high quality though) and immediately buff in completely and off.
4.-IMPORTANT: Use a separate towel (preferably a high quality absorbent towel) This towel is to stay using dry sides throughout as your final wipe towel. With this towel immediately buff the area once more to be sure no streak remains
5.-Move to next section and repeat.

Note, any drops that blow onto other areas of paint may become streaky if left there awhile. As mentioned - one area and move on (not an entire hood) please let me know if this helps.


OK, now onto removing it after it was applied incorrectly. This is the hard part. Reload is VERY durable and your correct its not going to simply be wiped off using IPA or Eraser. Please give me a call and we can walk through what you have available and how we can go about removing the streaks.

High spots from Reload WILL wear off on their own but as I understand it you don`t have time to wait for such things. Give me a ring - 386-259-0759

[Ronkh]

Hi Ronkh, Joseph T asked me to pop over and help you out. Reload version your using should have no issues if used as described below.

Note, streaks are either product not buffed off or product re-deposited by a towel with reload in it instead of a proper dry final wipe towel.

With Reload it cures to the paint much stronger than wax so the difference in application is that you need to wipe it off completely before it flashes off on its own.

1. Shake well
2. Spray only the amount needed for one section (not an entire panel)
3.-IMMEDIATELY spread the product out with a short nap Microfiber Towel (high quality though) and immediately buff in completely and off.
4.-IMPORTANT: Use a separate towel (preferably a high quality absorbent towel) This towel is to stay using dry sides throughout as your final wipe towel. With this towel immediately buff the area once more to be sure no streak remains
5.-Move to next section and repeat.

Note, any drops that blow onto other areas of paint may become streaky if left there awhile. As mentioned - one area and move on (not an entire hood) please let me know if this helps.


OK, now onto removing it after it was applied incorrectly... This is the hard part. Reload is VERY durable and your correct its not going to simply be wiped off using IPA or Eraser. Please give me a call and we can walk through what you have available and how we can go about removing the streaks.

High spots from Reload WILL wear off on their own but as I understand it you don`t have time to wait for such things. Give me a ring - 386-259-0759

Did all of that Corey

[GearHead_1]

Car looks like crap !

Yep
Just.. lazy...

Easy answer as per previous conversation, time for a new Vette.

See this thread post #68:

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...tml#post525985

The only one that won`t be happy is the EX who will no longer be able to afford her car.

[Ronkh]

Easy answer as per previous conversation, time for a new Vette.

See this thread post #68:

http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...tml#post525985

The only one that won`t be happy is the EX who will no longer be able to afford her car.

[Luvmyvette]

Hey Ron,
Sorry to hear about your problems. That stuff is tricky and not very user friendly. And it`s such a crap feeling to see all your hard work ruined by an uncooperative product. Anyway, after I coated with CQUK this past summer I had a similar problem with the Reload but it wasn`t as bad after dilution. But for the problem spots left from reload and for any CQUK high spots I found (almost every time I looked at it from different angles in different lighting when I took it out) I used Adams Revive Hand Polish. I would spot polish with the revive on a MF buffer pad by hand and it removed it quite nicely with little effort. I recently bought their blue hand applicator pad and it works, as well. It looks like you have widespread problems vs. my spot issues but the revive was easy to work with and it beat going through the buffer routine. It`ll be more like putting on a coat of wax. Hope that helps. Good luck.

[MarkD]

I never tried this product, but would assume it is outstanding. (As it should be for the price.)

I say try a topper with the Synergy you have on hand. Simply hand apply. If that doesn`t cut it, only then would I go to cleaners, and all the other rigamorole.
Mark

[GearHead_1]

So Ron, do we have to put a top coat (LSP) on top of the coating. Why not just use a sealant to begin with? Does anyone besides myself envision the LSP is now destined to have areas that wear differently from the get go? A little coating here, a little sealant here, a little wax here and some tire gel here. I`m kidding of course but I don`t know that this would instill confidence for the user. You spend the $$$`s for a coating you kind of expect it to be the LSP or maybe that`s just me.

[mnehls86]

Wash with APC a few times? Remember the 2013 Reload fades with APC faster than 2014. APC test starts at 6:08

[Jsmooth]

Hi Ronkh, Joseph T asked me to pop over and help you out. Reload version your using should have no issues if used as described below.

Note, streaks are either product not buffed off or product re-deposited by a towel with reload in it instead of a proper dry final wipe towel.

With Reload it cures to the paint much stronger than wax so the difference in application is that you need to wipe it off completely before it flashes off on its own.

1. Shake well
2. Spray only the amount needed for one section (not an entire panel)
3.-IMMEDIATELY spread the product out with a short nap Microfiber Towel (high quality though) and immediately buff in completely and off.
4.-IMPORTANT: Use a separate towel (preferably a high quality absorbent towel) This towel is to stay using dry sides throughout as your final wipe towel. With this towel immediately buff the area once more to be sure no streak remains
5.-Move to next section and repeat.

Note, any drops that blow onto other areas of paint may become streaky if left there awhile. As mentioned - one area and move on (not an entire hood) please let me know if this helps.


OK, now onto removing it after it was applied incorrectly. This is the hard part. Reload is VERY durable and your correct its not going to simply be wiped off using IPA or Eraser. Please give me a call and we can walk through what you have available and how we can go about removing the streaks.

High spots from Reload WILL wear off on their own but as I understand it you don`t have time to wait for such things. Give me a ring - 386-259-0759

Ron Call Corey!!! He is the man! I know he can get you through it!

[MarkD]

So Ron, do we have to put a top coat (LSP) on top of the coating. Why not just use a sealant to begin with? Does anyone besides myself envision the LSP is now destined to have areas that wear differently from the get go? A little coating here, a little sealant here, a little wax here and some tire gel here. I`m kidding of course but I don`t know that this would instill confidence for the user. You spend the $$$`s for a coating you kind of expect it to be the LSP or maybe that`s just me.

In the last 12 or so months, there`s no doubt that I`ve thrown more money, and more products at my crapbox Kia Spectra, than what the whole darn car is worth. It looks basically good considering it`s 14 years old, it`s my testing easel, and I`ve sampled quite a bit.

As for Reload, I know it is claimed to contain ceramic nano goodies, but I wouldn`t go so far to really call it a coating. Although in a side by side, the Reload may actually last longer at protecting than so many other so called, and marketed "Coatings". I assume the main design goal of Reload was a maintenence product for CQuartz Coatings.

While I have CQuartz on one vehicle already and would probably very seriously consider using it on a future vehicle no matter the cost, I just don`t know? This old school boy has almost come full circle again, realizing that many of the old school products have stood "the test of time".

[RaysWay]

So Ron, do we have to put a top coat (LSP) on top of the coating. Why not just use a sealant to begin with? Does anyone besides myself envision the LSP is now destined to have areas that wear differently from the get go? A little coating here, a little sealant here, a little wax here and some tire gel here. I`m kidding of course but I don`t know that this would instill confidence for the user. You spend the $$$`s for a coating you kind of expect it to be the LSP or maybe that`s just me.

Ya I know what you mean about the coating wearing differently. But even with a coating on as the LSP, I think the best looking car is a fresh waxed car. For a "fresh waxed" look....you just have to wax it. I don`t think my car looks as good 2 months later with a naked coating, compared to my car that`s been freshly waxed. I`m all for waxing coatings. Besides, how else am I supposed to use up all this wax??

[GearHead_1]

Good point and more importantly, why is the King of Wax Wasting using a coatingesque product anyway?

[GearHead_1]

As for Reload, I know it is claimed to contain ceramic nano goodies, but I wouldn`t go so far to really call it a coating.

True enough, kind of a blurry line on the category.

[Ronkh]

On my cell and only have a min
Suffice to say I just offered my zupply of reload to someone
Just slightly pissed
Will answer all posts later

[Stokdgs]

I am so sorry that this product is causing you so much headache/heartache...

It has always been amazing to me to read how many steps you have to do and go through each time you do anything to this product...

My old-school-Opti-Guard from 3+ years ago has never given me a bit of trouble like your coating product...

I just wash it occasionally, using Reset now, and blow dry it (its black so I want to hurry), and occasionally, wipe it down with something like Optimum Opti-Gloss QD or Blackfire`s version, with only a few towels, and certainly not as difficult as your product, and I still get very clear, glossy, can see every tiny metallic particle in the paint, everywhere on the Grand Cherokee..

No zillion towels, that harden up , none of this extra work, just put this product on correctly, cured it, drove probably 12 thousand miles, and its still there and is so user friendly..

I am sure there will be tons of room for a dozen coatings, etc., whatever you want to call them, every year, but perhaps we need to look back - way, way, back - at who started this process (after Sal Zaino), and see who is still working great after what a decade ??

All I can think of is that perhaps you have too much product on your paint now, and its not all playing well together...

Perhaps mnehls86 is the most correct - wash, wash, wash, with APC...

Your coating should still be on there but all the other stuff on top should be gone...

Need a clean palette now..

Good luck, mi Amigo !!!
Wish I could help !!
DanF