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  1. #16
    eggroll's Avatar
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    I went to the one on 91st and peoria. I don`t think they will be supplying it anymore because it was on clearance
    "A car doesn`t have to be the fastest or most powerful to be the love of your life" -Temperacerguy

  2. #17
    Jngrbrdman's Avatar
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    Originally posted by 2drtahoez71
    could you use CD2 anywhere else...like wheel wells maybe?
    You could. I prefer to use tire shine on wheel wells. Its easier to get up under there. CD2 is best on the engine where you can easily reach everything. Use tire foam or tire shine to do wheel wells if you want them looking really nice.

  3. #18
    Super Moderator Pats300zx's Avatar
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    Does NE1 know if they sell the kit at Autozone or just the cleaner?? I used this stuff this weekend and its amazing.... !!!!!!
    Only Z Best Detailing-Automotive Concours Detailing Services
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  4. #19
    Jngrbrdman's Avatar
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    The cleaner is just normal degreaser. Nothing too special about that. Its the shine part of the kit that is the bomb. I haven`t seen it sold together as a kit for quite some time. Just stock up on as much of the single can of Engine Detailer that you can find.

  5. #20
    TheSopranos16's Avatar
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    where can you/can`t you spray water in the engine compartment? I noticed you got the battery very clean, can you spray that? basically I have never done a engine detail before but I would like to learn how. I am def going to get some CD2 but I need to know what I`m doing as well. Any tips?
    2003 Nissan 350Z Touring - Super Black - 6MT
    "Most legit people I know, they`d go a hundred miles out of their way not to make eye contact with me" - Tony Soprano

  6. #21
    Jngrbrdman's Avatar
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    From my article on ocdetails.com and here:

    Engine

    Detailing a brand new car is actually harder than detailing an old beat up one. The main reason is that all you need to do is toss a bucket of water on an old car and its already looking better. Its tough to get a new car to look any better than it starts out looking. That is probably why the engine is my favorite part to detail. You need to do very little to get it looking better. Some of my methods may not agree with yours, but they are just my methods and I take no responisbility for anyone who FUBARs their car using them. Capisce?

    I start out by covering my intake. I`ve got a short ram air intake and the filter is exposed. I just wrap a plastic bag around it and that does the trick. Cover any other exposed filters and/or blow off valves as well. Some will say to cover the alternator and distributor cap and I can`t argue with them. You don`t want the water to corrode anything important. Tin foil is a useful product when you are covering things. It covers and protects for the purpose of detailing your engine just fine. My solution to covering half the engine in plastic and tin foil is just common caution. I don`t spray water in those directions. If they do get a little wet in the process of detailing, well.... I`m fairly sure that they aren`t made of sugar and won`t melt.

    After you have covered everything that needs to be covered I break out the foaming engine degreaser. I`m a big fan of Gunk brand engine degreaser. I like the foaming action. It helps me see where I`ve got it and where I don`t.

    I spray the firewall down really well with it. That is the hardest part to reach so I want all the help I can get. Basicly all the painted surfaces get sprayed with Gunk. I don`t really do much on the top part of the engine since that will be more meticulously detailed by hand. This is just for the harder to reach areas that show up more. Any painted surface will show up if its dirty.

    I only use water on the engine two times. Once is to spray off the degreaser. You should let it sit and do its magic for a little bit before you go blasting away with a water hose. I take this time to go get the hose and fill a bucket of soapy water. I`ve got a towel and a wash mitt especially for engines. I`ve got one for wheels too. I like to keep things seperate. Anyway, when I get back to the engine I`ll spray it down with a little more degreaser just to take care of some of the drips that you`ll see and then with low pressure I spray it off. I use my thumb to change the pressure of the stream. Sometimes you want to just rinse and sometimes you need a little blast. You aren`t putting out a fire here so don`t go crazy.

    I don`t use any attachments on my hose. In fact, I cut off the metal tip of my hose. I don`t want to run the risk of dinging the car with anything. I`d wear a total microfiber body suit while detailing if I could find one. I`m out of my mind insane though. Don`t follow my example when you see me dressed all in microfiber like I`m working in a labratory studying highly contagious diseases. lol

    I use the wash mitt to wash down all the painted areas that I can find. If the mitt can`t get under a hose or something, then I`ve got some towels that I use. I just use old microfibers that have been retired from my collection. Don`t be afraid to cut up your hands on this job. If you can see it, then so can the judges and you might as well try and reach it with the towel. I`ve been known to do some pretty wild things in order to reach spots on my car. Get creative and I`m sure you can do it.

    For the valve cover I use Simple Green and a tooth brush. Its amazing how clean it gets. You shouldn`t have to do it that way very often. Be very careful with the simple green too. Its pretty strong stuff and you might want to dilute it just to be safe. This stuff is not good on plastics and I would probably avoid aluminum with it too. Its a really strong cleaner.

    I really can`t explain much more about engine detailing than that. Just keep using the tools that you have till its clean. If you can reach it then clean it. If you can`t reach it then wrap towels around a tooth brush and try to reach it. Products that work well that you may not think about using under the hood are things like Tire Foam, Glass Cleaner, Armor All, and probably a few others that I can`t think of.

    The CD2 products I said to find are awesome. If you do a search on google for "CD2 Engine Detailing Kit" then it will take you to a link from the Wax Depot that carries it if you can`t find it in a store. K-Mart usually carries it. Anyway, the first part of the kit is a degreaser. Not necessary if you have the Gunk. However, the second product is incredible. Its an engine shine product that I`ve never seen the likes of before. It adds a non greasy gloss to the hoses and plastics that will blow people away. You could seriously just degrease the engine, spray it off with a hose, spray this detailer on it, and then walk away and people would think you spent hours under the hood. Its really that impressive. It will make your black valve cover or hoses or whatever under your hood just look outstanding. I spray it on and then smooth it out with shop towels. After I`m done with that I`ll use 4 Star`s Gloss Enhancer (a QD) and wipe down the painted areas. I use a little glass cleaner on my intake pipe because its chrome, but that`s about it for under the hood. The hood itself is another matter.

    The underside of the hood usually gets pretty gross. Clean that like you would clean anything else. Use a wash mitt and soapy water. You should actually probably do this before you do the rest of the engine. Integra drivers have it lucky because the hood will prop up at a 90 degree angle from the engine bay. That makes it way easier to clean under. Scrub scrub scrub and then QD when you are done. That will make an impressive hood. Just use your common sense and use the products you have available.

  7. #22

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    Jngrbrdman! I read this thread this morning and decided to try it.I went out and bought some gunk at wallmart for about $1.40 a can but didn`t find any CD2.I finally found some at Autozone and bought 2 cans.I got home and used the gunk first and then the CD2 and the results were great.My engine never looked so good.Thanks for the tip!!!!

  8. #23

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    I have heard that this CD2 is really great, but i have not seen it anywhere locally. I will defintely have to find some and try it out!! Thanks Jngrbrdman - Its a great review!
    1998 Acura 3.0Cl - Clean, just how I like it!

  9. #24

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    Jngrbrdman, I took all of your advice! I went out to Strauss Auto today where I found the Prestone foaming carpet cleaner, the gunk foaming engine cleaner, and the CD2 Engine Detailer. I haven`t used any of the products yet since its raining here in NJ and it looks like its going to stay that way for the rest of the week I will give them a shot and post my experiences when we get some sunshine!

  10. #25
    Ace Of Spades's Avatar
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    Another thumbs up from me! I too found it at autozone and tried it out. That`s great stuff. I didn`t even wipe it down after spraying it, I just let it soak in and it dried evenly. Looks great.
    I love the smell of EX-P in the morning.

  11. #26
    Super Moderator Pats300zx's Avatar
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    I finally found it at my local Autozone with the engine additives. Cost $3.99
    Only Z Best Detailing-Automotive Concours Detailing Services
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  12. #27

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    So what are the possible dangers in detailing your engine. There are all sorts of warning about covering it up. What will happen if you accidentally get this stuff somewhere its not supposed to be (distributor, or belts for example)? What`s the worst case scenario? And is water really that bad, if you allow your engine to dry propperly?
    Starting up mobile business...
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  13. #28
    COME AT ME BRO JaredPointer's Avatar
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    I know from experience water in the distributor cap will make the car quit. Just ask my ex-girlfriend. Her car quit on her on her way home after I had cleaned it up. She was none to happy about being stranded in the ghetto part of town. Ha! I think you would also want to keep it out of the fuse box area. You probably also do not want to spray directly in the alternator.
    I still don`t believe in grit guards.

  14. #29
    Jngrbrdman's Avatar
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    The risks really are minimal for ocassional exposure. After all, if the parts were really that fragile and easily damaged by water, then the engine bay would be sealed from any possible water damage from below. The danger lies in getting them wet frequently. Connections can rust and cause problems. We all know how well water and electrical systems work and play together, so that is basically the reason to cover that stuff up. I just avoid spraying water on anything electrical when possible. I do most of my engine detailing with a spray bottle, brushes and towels anyway. If all you focus on are cleaning the painted surfaces and cleaning off the plastics and hoses then it makes the job seem much more managable. Cover or avoid the alternator and exposed filters or electrical systems and do them by hand if they need cleaning.

  15. #30

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    I have to say.. This stuff works great... I got it at Autozone one day. I used Gunk to get alot of the nasty stuff off.. But this stuff got a nice shine in my engine.. Check out my gallery... i have before and after pics of it. later

 

 
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