Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Augusta, Ga
    Posts
    30
    Post Thanks / Like

    Poorboys question

    How hard is it to get a ready to wax finish from ssr2.5?

  2. #2
    ~werd to yo mutha~ Way2SSlow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Alpharetta, GA
    Posts
    1,849
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    Depends on how hard/soft the paint you`re working on is. I`ve had micromarring while polishing a Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura MDX with 2.5 and a polishing pad, but most of the time (using a polishing pad), it`s pretty much ready. If you`re looking for maximum gloss, I`d follow with a finishing polish on a finishing pad.
    ~werd to yo mutha~
    Wade

  3. #3
    Detail time! budman3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    2,308
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    Quote Originally Posted by Way2SSlow View Post
    Depends on how hard/soft the paint you`re working on is. I`ve had micromarring while polishing a Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura MDX with 2.5 and a polishing pad, but most of the time (using a polishing pad), it`s pretty much ready. If you`re looking for maximum gloss, I`d follow with a finishing polish on a finishing pad.
    What he said. If you work it in properly and use a polishing pad you can finish off LSP ready. Again, it all depends on the vehicle.
    "Whether you think you can or think you can`t - you are right " -Henry Ford

  4. #4
    @PoorboysWorld.com Pockets's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    West Nyack, NY
    Posts
    2,218
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    Quote Originally Posted by Way2SSlow View Post
    Depends on how hard/soft the paint you`re working on is. I`ve had micromarring while polishing a Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura MDX with 2.5 and a polishing pad, but most of the time (using a polishing pad), it`s pretty much ready. If you`re looking for maximum gloss, I`d follow with a finishing polish on a finishing pad.
    Right on man

    I usually like to follow it up with a finishing product (PP, PWS, SSR1) something like that just to get the finish that much smoother and slick

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Augusta, Ga
    Posts
    30
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    I was working on a 06 GMC Truck and was having micro marring after a white LC pad and ssr2.5. I may not have been working it long enough though.

  6. #6
    New Normal cwcad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Harker Heights, Tx.
    Posts
    3,973
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    From what you have described it would be a natural thing for me to go to SSR 1 or PP with a polishing pad and PC or rotary to take care of the micro marring of which you speak.
    cwcad

    DO WHAT YOU SAY.....SAY WHAT YOU DO!!!!
    www.ldkbox.com a blog about life`s details

  7. #7
    Detailing Gnosis Bunky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Hillsborough, NC
    Posts
    8,305
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    Quote Originally Posted by cwcad View Post
    From what you have described it would be a natural thing for me to go to SSR 1 or PP with a polishing pad and PC or rotary to take care of the micro marring of which you speak.
    In regards to PP, it is listed as more versatile and pad dependent.

    Pro Polish will give you a clearer and brighter finish to start with, and SSR1 will be a little more glossier ...the cleaing ability is about equal, but Pro Polish is a bit more versitile in that you can use different pads to achieve different results. SSR1 should only be used with either a polishing pad or finishing pad, never with a cutting pad.

    I know PP can be used as a paint clear but obviously seems to have some corrections. I have an opportunity to get a bottle in a trade and I was looking for more justification.

    Al
    The Need to Bead


  8. #8

    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Augusta, Ga
    Posts
    30
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    I plan on going ssr1 but after reading around alittle I really think I was not working the ssr2.5 enough and that is where my issue was coming from.

  9. #9
    Mr Detailer Stephan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Portland, Connecticut
    Posts
    2,813
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    perhaps you didn`t break down the polish enough and you still had some left on the paint.
    I like beer. On occasion I will even drink a beer to celebrate a major event such as the fall of communism or the fact that our refrigerator is still working.

    Stephan`s Detailing
    Portland CT.

    XBox Live - mr detailer

  10. #10
    Detail time! budman3's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Southern NH
    Posts
    2,308
    Post Thanks / Like

    Re: Poorboys question

    Here are a bunch of tips that I have compiled after reading and using SSR2.5. Be sure to visit blkyukon`s web site, he has great pictures showing the breakdown stages of SSR2.5 and when the polish has fully broken down, ready for removal:

    -Always use a polishing pad (or orange light cut ... if careful) with SSR2.5 (it`ll remove a ton of swirls, if not do another pass or bump up to another product)
    -DO NOT PRIME WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE PRODUCT ITSELF (very crucial)
    -Apply a thin bead of product around the pad for each section of the car or several dots around the pad.
    -Spread it at whatever speed you want, work it in at Speed 6.... don`t be afraid of speed 6.
    -Work it in until very clear (may take a few minutes... see pics in link below)
    -If the product begins to build up on the pad, brush off with stiff brush or wipe off excess polish with a terry towel
    -Wipe off
    -Admire no swirls
    -Go to finer polish (if needed- with the polishing pad you most likely don`t NEED to follow up but it wouldn`t hurt).
    -Do not use a new pad that hasn`t been washed- Pads come from the factory with small foam particles left in the pad that look like product dust.

    The orange pad will dry out the product faster so I usually use a white polishing pad. However, recently I used SSR2.5 with an orange light cut pad and was able to go right to wax.

    blkyukon has pictures of what the SSR 2.5 looks like through its polishing stages:
    Polish Break Down Stages - Poorboys SSR2.5

    *You may need to tweak your techniques when using SSR2.5 in different weather conditions. The product is still usable in the sun but workability will diminish slightly and it`s more apt to dry out faster.
    "Whether you think you can or think you can`t - you are right " -Henry Ford

 

 

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Poorboys Question
    By JSFM35X in forum Detailing Product Reviews
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 09-07-2010, 08:27 AM
  2. Poorboys Question?
    By cheapshot in forum Poorboy's World Forum
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-10-2009, 08:02 PM
  3. Poorboys Question
    By Nice-N-Clean in forum Auto Detailing 101
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 04-21-2005, 08:32 AM
  4. poorboys question
    By KleanFreak in forum Auto Detailing 101
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 03-22-2004, 06:12 AM
  5. Poorboys EX Question
    By Jim B. in forum Car Detailing
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-16-2003, 10:16 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •