Differences between SSR2 and SSR2.5?

**thedallashilton** · 10-14-2007, 12:41 PM

What`s the differences between these two and what type of CCS pad is recommended(polishing, light cutting)?

**budman3** · 10-14-2007, 01:02 PM

Originally Posted by thedallashilton

What`s the differences between these two and what type of CCS pad is recommended(polishing, light cutting)?

There is a big difference between the two. SSR2 is more along the lines of SSR1 with a little more abrasive to it. SSR2.5 is just a work horse and will remove a ton of swirls.

SSR2 should only be used with a polishing or finishing pad...

You can use SSR2.5 with a light cut pad (orange w/ LC) but it may dry the product out faster than with a polishing pad.

SSR2 has been sitting on my shelf for a while lately. The SSR2.5 and SSR1 combo is easy to do and very effective.

**audiboy** · 10-14-2007, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by budman3

The SSR2.5 and SSR1 combo is easy to do and very effective.

I couldn`t agree more.

**thedallashilton** · 10-14-2007, 01:22 PM

So the SSR2.5/SSR1 combo is the combo i`m going to try. So i would use the SSR2.5 first to remove the swirls and scratches. Then follow up with SSR1 for what reason? I would imagine the SSR2.5 overshadowing the the SSR1 in terms of swirl, scratch, and oxidation removal. So I wouldn`t find the SSR1 necessary. It just seems to me sometimes its hard to tell the difference in light swirls to "regular" swirl amounts and in light of the is new info you are telling me, SSR 2.5 would be "standard procedure". Also, will this combo too often take a lot paint off the vehicle? Thanks guys!

**audiboy** · 10-14-2007, 01:29 PM

Just imagine the process of using sand paper. You`d want to use the most abrasive product that you need and then step your way down to end up with the best looking finish as possible. The SSR2.5 will remove a lot of the defects in your paint and the SSR1 will clean it up from there. All you need after that, in most cases, is a good LSP.

**budman3** · 10-14-2007, 03:04 PM

To add to what AB said, SSR1 may not be necessary in a few cases but no matter what it`ll be beneficial. SSR2.5 is a strong polish and chances are you`ll have some micromarring left from either the polish or pad that you choose. The SSR1 will clean up whatever is left after you do the heavy cutting. Plus it`ll add a little gloss to the finish as well.

I have gone from a polishing and even a light cut pad with SSR2.5 right to LSP with great results. SSR2.5 has diminishing abrasives in it ... so the longer you polish (without going too far) the smaller the abrasives get. If you stop polishing before the product has broken down, you`ll have micromarring, which can be cleaned up with the SSR1 with a finishing or polishing pad.

**thedallashilton** · 10-14-2007, 11:42 PM

So you think a polishing pad with SSR2.5 will cause less marring than with a light cutting pad? Autogeek said there is no need for a finer polish afterwards and that its ready for a wax right after, i`m guessing even when using a light cutting bad for more effective swirl removal. there is the link: Poorboy`s World SSR 2.5 Medium Super Swirl Remover 32 oz

**cwcad** · 10-15-2007, 07:42 AM

Originally Posted by thedallashilton

So you think a polishing pad with SSR2.5 will cause less marring than with a light cutting pad? Autogeek said there is no need for a finer polish afterwards and that its ready for a wax right after, i`m guessing even when using a light cutting bad for more effective swirl removal. there is the link: Poorboy`s World SSR 2.5 Medium Super Swirl Remover 32 oz

Often times the finish is adequate to go from SSR2.5 to an LSP. But not always. It depends on the skill of the operator. It also depends on the condition of the paint. Nothing is written in stone when it comes to the proper finish. It would be my opinion that if SSR2.5 has a good finish that SSR1 would have a better finish if used to complete the paint correction process.

Another point to remember is to use the least aggressive product first when trying to correct paint. One can always increase the product abrassiveness to get the correction needed.

**JaredPointer** · 10-15-2007, 08:05 AM

Originally Posted by thedallashilton

So you think a polishing pad with SSR2.5 will cause less marring than with a light cutting pad? Autogeek said there is no need for a finer polish afterwards and that its ready for a wax right after, i`m guessing even when using a light cutting bad for more effective swirl removal. there is the link: Poorboy`s World SSR 2.5 Medium Super Swirl Remover 32 oz

I think that would really depend on the pad used in conjunction with the 2.5. I have gone straight to LSP when using a polish pad and when pressed for time. In my opinion, it is by no means the route to go for the best possible finish. I like to do a final polish with a lighter polish to really bring out a glass-like finish, but I don`t always have the time for it.

**black bart** · 10-20-2007, 05:46 AM

Originally Posted by JaredPointer

I think that would really depend on the pad used in conjunction with the 2.5. I have gone straight to LSP when using a polish pad and when pressed for time. In my opinion, it is by no means the route to go for the best possible finish. I like to do a final polish with a lighter polish to really bring out a glass-like finish, but I don`t always have the time for it.

I agree I always use a final polish I guess it depends on how well you want it to look.
With whatever I use I like to finish with either PB-PP or Menzerna final polish.