need polishing advice

**masters touch** · 08-21-2007, 02:22 PM

Blue HHR - this car was an `05 so the paint was good. I used Poorboys SSR2.5 & LC`s white pad and it gave the car a good gloss but there were some light scratches that wouldn`t come out.

Gold Accord - it`s a `98 and the top is fading but the rest of the paint was good. This car had a lot of scratches and marks on it. I used a 2000 grit polish & orange cccs pad and it cleaned it up quite a bit. I can still see the micro scratches (cob webs) on it and some of the bigger scratches didn`t come out.

My question is...do I need to go to a more aggressive compound/polish? I don`t know whether to use a 1000 or a 1500 grit compound. I also saw a 600 grit compound, but I figured that`s for the worst of the worst.

**Beemerboy** · 08-21-2007, 03:07 PM

Originally Posted by masters touch

Blue HHR - this car was an `05 so the paint was good. I used Poorboys SSR2.5 & LC`s white pad and it gave the car a good gloss but there were some light scratches that wouldn`t come out.

Gold Accord - it`s a `98 and the top is fading but the rest of the paint was good. This car had a lot of scratches and marks on it. I used a 2000 grit polish & orange cccs pad and it cleaned it up quite a bit. I can still see the micro scratches (cob webs) on it and some of the bigger scratches didn`t come out.

My question is...do I need to go to a more aggressive compound/polish? I don`t know whether to use a 1000 or a 1500 grit compound. I also saw a 600 grit compound, but I figured that`s for the worst of the worst.

The fine scratches that you are seeing after the SSR and compound are a result of them...what you need to do is get a lighter polish to remove those...the SSR1 is a good choice if you have that....I would use a polishing pad on that then you can move to a sealant, paste wax of both....if you still have some minor scratches chances are they are not coming out or would require wet sanding...there is only so much that can be done in some instances....you might consider a hand glaze before the LSP to help reduce the effects of the scratches..most all of them have a filler and this will cover them up....I do it and ran a thread last week about it....you can look it up...fillers or no fillers

**budman3** · 08-21-2007, 04:06 PM

Polishing the paint with a PC 7424 can only do so much with deep swirls and scratches. Chances are what`s left after your harsh compound may be too deep to safely remove.

As for the HHR, Beemerboy gave you solid advice with the SSR1. If you take your time with the 2.5 and right before you remove the product move the buffer a little faster and lighten your pressure and you`ll likely lessen the micromarring that you see. It wouldn`t surprise me if you could go right to a wax if you do this. If not, SSR1 will clean up the rest.

**Beemerboy** · 08-21-2007, 05:06 PM

Originally Posted by budman3

Polishing the paint with a PC 7424 can only do so much with deep swirls and scratches. Chances are what`s left after your harsh compound may be too deep to safely remove.

As for the HHR, Beemerboy gave you solid advice with the SSR1. If you take your time with the 2.5 and right before you remove the product move the buffer a little faster and lighten your pressure and you`ll likely lessen the micromarring that you see. It wouldn`t surprise me if you could go right to a wax if you do this. If not, SSR1 will clean up the rest.

Thanks Bud and to back that up with a PC you are limited to the results...however pull up on it and let it spin moving slowly in small areas...I do 2 x 2 feet at a time...let the product work in to nothing left....that will be about as good as you can get with the PC...I have done so great work with mine

**CharlesW** · 08-21-2007, 05:07 PM

Since I don`t use any polishes more aggressive than SSR2.5 or any pads more aggressive than a polishing pad, I can`t speak from experience, but....
I have read where the PC has limited capability when used with aggressive compounds. Something about not having the power, speed and heat needed to break down the compounds.
I do know from experience that it seems to take forever to remove severe marring with the PC. It can be done, but what takes me 20 minutes would probably take an expert with a rotary 2 minutes.

Charles

**Troy@Protekt** · 08-21-2007, 06:50 PM

Assuming that you are using the DA properly for paint correction (2`x2` areas at a time, 15-20#s of pressure being applied, slow, over-lapping passes in a checkerboard fashion, speed on 5 or 6).

You can get more aggressive than the 2.5 with LC`s white pad. I would step-up to the orange pad and a more aggressive polish like ssr3, xmt4 or Optimum`s Hyper Compound. Work it in well making sure not to use more than recommended then follow up with a mild swirl remover and white pad.

Yes it will take you longer than if you were using a rotary but you can be effective at paint correction with a DA.

One more thing I will add. When I`m using the DA for paint correction I rarely take it off 6 and I am really liking the low-profile LC pads because of their ability to get in tighter spots and produce more heat. I usually change the pad a couple times when I polish a car. Working it at #6 is hard on the pad and switching pads is more effective IMO, and it also helps the pads last longer.