Polish/polishers, time to up my game. Let’s talk

[nan_wpg]

Hi guys. I’m new here.

Here’s the deal, my vehicles aren’t high end, and they are daily drivers. But they always look nice, and clean.

Vehicles are purchased new, and washed “properly” as best I can. Interiors are thoroughly cleaned once a year, and as needed. Engines are given a bath with simple green and rinsed, air blown dry, and sprayed with 303 protectant. Usually 4 times a year.

paint is “polished” with klasse AIO, and topped with klasse sealant. I use a porter cable (Of,course after iron removal, claybar, etc. Once a year. Beadmaker (or optimum spray wax) is used as a drying aid all year.

im happy with how my rides look. Sure there are mild swirls here and there, but only if you look for them in sunlight.

basically In good,with “shiny paint, black tires, clean windows”.

I spent years chasing “the best”, and “the newest” products, and processes. This is what I arrived at.

so why am I asking for opinions? Well, I’m getting older, and I’m starting to value my time and money as I age. By this I mean my priorities are 1. Easier on the body, 2. Faster (or more efficient), and 3. Quality (save money in the long run). My grandfather always said “cheap products are for rich people” meaning buy once cry once.

for example I bought a kranzle pressure washer, and hose reel. In my experience it will cheaper than replacing cheaper washers every year or two. The hose reel allows a permanent set up that can be deployed and put away in less than a minute. Absolutely worth every penny.

I bought a nice commercial quality steamer. Again, it dramatically sped up the interior work. I used to hate interiors. I can polish paint all day but not interiors. With steam I actually enjoy doing it. My steamer should outlast me and has earned its keep in the home as well.

while my porter,cable and product choice “works” I’m wondering if I should consider a “nicer” polisher and a better choice of product given that there has been substantial advances in abrasive tech.

Price not an issue, I just want easier, faster, and quality.

My only request would be no masking off of trim, and panels. Klasse products don’t stain anything. Mostly because it’s a cleaner and not really an abrasive. With that being,said I’ll consider masking if the time and effort is made up by a faster, easier process.

thoughts, questions, or concerns?

in advance, many thanks.

[jem7sk]

For a faster polisher.. definitely the Flex BEAST or SupaBEAST IMO. I don`t think 3D products will stain trim, so 3D One or Speed.

I myself am going to try to learn a rotary. If I can`t finish with it then I will probably get the MaxShine M15 Pro.

[dwaleke]

I agree on the Flex forced rotation DA polishers as being faster. But they put more wear and tear on the body.

15mm long throw polisher will be faster too but you have to be mentally focused to ensure pad rotation is happening frequently enough. But a lot smoother than gear driven.

Rotary is fast for cutting but even the best detailers with the most experience will tell you they cannot guarantee you can finish out hologram free. The scratch pattern it leaves behind will always have holograms whether you can see them all the time or not.

If I could only have one tool it would be a Flex XCE either corded or cordless. If I could have more tools I`d add the Flex 3" cordless polisher, then an 8mm da (which you have), then a 15mm da. Then maybe a Rupes iBird for very tight spots. I have two rotaries now but they aren`t necessary tools unless working on boats or rock hard clear coat. And even then if you had the corded XCE that could do those.

Oh and you really can`t run a pad over plastic trim. Whether the polish will stain or not it will always push product into the pores of textured plastic discoloring it. Best to avoid going near it or just tape it off.


For products I like 3D (ACA 500, ONE, ACA 520), Griot`s Garage (Fast Correcting Cream, Correcting Cream, Perfecting Cream), and I`ve just started using Koch Chemie (H9.01, F6.01, M3.02). Everyone will post their favorites.

[nan_wpg]

So any reason for the flex scenario over the rupes Mille? Kinda the same but one has smaller orbit.

I like that rupes has a “system” which makes it easy for me. Yellow lid, yellow pad, etc. prices are similar.

as for,rotary ive seen videos with Ivan lecroix from optimum and he’s says rotary is not a big deal, and it’s mainly a North American thing?was contemplating it.

I don’t deliberately go over trim. I do my best to avoid it. No taping is nice, but like I said I’ll do it. Having said that my klasse products have touched trim and over 10 years have not discolored anything. (Black divider thingies on rear Windows actually are deliberately “gone over”

I bought a bottle of 3D speed to try out.

[dwaleke]

Nothing wrong with the Mille. I started using the Flex 3401 and used that for years. I bought the Mille thinking it would be a more refined version and I liked the idea that the pad rotated the same direction as a rotary.

Well the Mille wasn`t really a more refined tool IMO. It seems more like a "me too" product for Rupes. They pitched the thin pads with the tool as essential for proper balance along with Mille specific polishes. But then when they redid their DA system all of a sudden the Mille could use the thicker DA pads and the regular DA polish - same tool.

I sold my Mille for a loss and don`t regret it. Then I used long throw DAs primarily for a hot minute. In the end I picked up a cordless Flex XCE. IMO I prefer the Flex over the Mille. The corded version is more powerful if you are concerned with that. I haven`t had a need for more power yet but if I do I can always fall back to a rotary and wool pad. But between wool pads on Flex XCE or microfiber on long throw DA I feel I`m more than covered.

15mm long throw machines are smoother than the gear driven and since the scratch pattern is random with free spinning orbitals you have the chance you finish out better with them. But you have an 8mm free spinning polisher you can use for that if you need to.

Flex cordless XCE is smoother operation than the Mille. I`d expect the Flex corded XCE to be a smoother running machine then the Mille as well but neither are like using a free spinning tool.

Cars with real flat panels the long throw could work quicker and leave a better finish (and smoother operation). Cars with curvy panels and the gear driven is likely faster. No need to switch back and forth between big and little polisher for those.


I`d use the 6" backing plate on the gear driven tools. It wears down the battery on the cordless a bit more but it hasn`t been an issue for me. Two batteries are plenty to keep going around the car - just keep the second battery on the charger as you go and switch when needed. I switch when I change to a fresh pad.

You can still use Rupes pads and polishes with a Flex XCE if that makes it easier for you. In fact Mike Phillips recommends the Rupes DA Yellow and White pads with the Flex gear driven tools. He prefers the Lake Country Force Orange pads for cutting vs the Rupes blue foam though. If you need more cut he recommends the Rupes blue wool pad. You also have options like the Buff and Shine Uro-wool pads along with the Lake Country wool pads. Unless you are working on really neglected paint or rock hard clear you likely do not need anything more than the Orange Force pads on the Flex gear driven tools.

And I`d bet you`d really only use the Force Orange and Rupes Yellow for 90%+ of the work that you do. Even if you used Rupes Uno Pure polish I doubt you`d need the White pads with it most of the time. Unless you are working on really soft haze prone clear.

[nan_wpg]

I noticed too rupes now has pads/product for forced and free spin. Is it me too, or is it in fact an advance in technology?

I,really don’t want a wide range of tools. I can’t be bothered using a long throw for flat panels, then switching to a nano, etc. then add to that the additional pads, and cleaning, etc. I want simple.

one of the rupes guys said if you will only have one tool, forced is the way to go.

I think Mike at ag prefers the flex as well. He’s also a fan of the “one step”. So far I’ve bought had speed. I may try ps playmaker.

totally happy with the klasse twins but it’s,2,steps. If I can take it down a step and save time, all the better.

[maurofc70]

I been using BF one step it cleans...polish and protects also I use Bfn sio2as a topper. I have a white car stays outside 24/7..very happy using them both

[John U]

I moved from my Porter Cable to the 3401 a decade+ ago for the forced rotation. No regrets.

[noorth]

I not a professional. But i really enjoy the DA fine polish. And the yellow rupes foam pads are my favorite pads to use. I have 5 or 6 different brands of pads.

The polishes i have are 3D one, sonax perfect finish, griots correcting cream and rupes DA fine. Sonax and rupes are my favorites, easier wipeoff then 3D1 and i found griots correcting cream to runny, so i never used it.

[Coatings=crack]

Definitely a 15mm long throw. I have a Griots and after one session got the technique somewhat figured out for a noob.

It fits the faster and less wear and tear on the body than a gear driven.

I also like the griots and rupes pads..... the Griots cream polish’s are amazing.

I would probably by the Rupes as the new Griots g15 doesn’t seem to get as stellar reviews as their old models (changed manufacturers)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nan_wpg]

So I e been doing some more reading, and you tubing.

very impressed with rupes videos and online “training”. Also been watching and reading Mike p from ag

so one thing I found interesting is that Mike p says if the pad ain’t spinin you ain’t correcting, but rupes say that th e orbit does most of the work.

‘’now I’m really torn between forced or free spinning.

[dwaleke]

Watch this video from Rupes. They compare pros and cons of their own long throw vs gear driven.

https://youtu.be/x0cbONI3NPw

[bad penny]

So I e been doing some more reading, and you tubing.

very impressed with rupes videos and online “training”. Also been watching and reading Mike p from ag

so one thing I found interesting is that Mike p says if the pad ain’t spinin you ain’t correcting, but rupes say that th e orbit does most of the work.

‘’now I’m really torn between forced or free spinning.

"If it ain`t spinning it ain`t correcting" for $500 Alex

[nan_wpg]

Watch this video from Rupes. They compare pros and cons of their own long throw vs gear driven.

https://youtu.be/x0cbONI3NPw

i watched this today. It left me confused. On one hand orbit is more important than “spin” and lack of spin doesn’t mean lack of cut.

if that’s the case then why the Mille?

my takeaway was Mille for “one polisher only”. Covers all the bases.

free spin requires multiple machines.

[dgage]

The Rupes Mille only has a 5mm throw so not as much correction as a comparable Flex with 8mm of throw.