Now the big question is- should I go with a regular stick of paint- do I get it mixed as single stage ? (Not talking dr colourchip anymore)
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Striker- That *is* a quandary, huh? I *think* I`d choose between them based on what kind of chip/etc. I was filling it. Like, "how hard to get the basecoat down in there and fill what`s left with plenty of clear?"
I generally prefer b/c for this, but sometimes I`m glad I just did it with ss. I can`t recall ever using ss and wishing I`d done differently, but I do sometimes feel that way when I`m using the b/c version.
Well. Some of these chips are down to bare metal. Like the one on my quarter window. Show below in the last photo.
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No biggie, use KBS RustSeal as the primer. Just get the touchup paint on top of it quickly or else you`ll have to [mess] around doing stuff so it`ll stick (not an problem within a few hours of using the RustSeal but don`t wait too long).
RustBullet doesn`t end up quite smooth enough for small chips and Eastwoods (otherwise good) RustEncapsulator can be sensitive to lacquer touchup paint.
And FWIW, with 3M Rust Avenger off the market, no Rust Converter that I`m familiar with will even come close to equaling the RustSeal.
A local shop that restores hot rods and multiple award winning cars told me about a rust neutralizer called Pixlex 21.
I’ll tell ya. It works! I had some rust on the inside of the frame rail from when I had my frame connectors welded to the front frame.
It was in a spot where there is no way in hell to sand the rust off. Well. I sprayed this stuff. Came back the next morning and all I saw was white powder!
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I tried Dr Colourchip year ago. Works fine on deeper chips but on fine clearcoat damage from ash on the roads, it just didn`t work with the wipe method.
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