Trim restorer/dressing showdown

[Nth Degree]

ValuGard ETR vs. GTechniq C4 vs. BlackWOW vs. Forever Black vs. Opti-Coat vs. Ultima Tire & Trim Guard vs. CarPro Perl vs. Meguiar`s Hyper Dressing.



Okay. I know those aren`t really all in the same category but I decided to just round out the field to compare looks, durability, ease of use and cost efficiency.



I have a Chevy Avalanche on the schedule for this week. The plan is to Opti-Coat the paint and coat the plastic with something dedicated for the task. I told the customer about the ValuGard ETR kit and he was interested. Problem is I had not actually used it. So what do you do when faced with this situation? Order a few different products and test them.



I have been too busy recently to do any significant testing and today was my last opportunity before starting the job so I was forced to use my own car as a test subject. I had been avoiding this because I had used Forever Black on my trim about a year ago and knew that it would likely affect the testing. Without any other option on short notice I stripped the Forever Black from the trim on one of my doors. I used lacquer thinner to strip it, (Mineral spirits just wasn`t cutting it) and wiped with straight 70% IPA.









This is the comparison. For the cost I have been relatively happy with the look of Forever Black. The problem is it does not hold up well against tape, as you can see from the splotchy look on the left side where I had taped off at one point to do a light polish.









I ended up adding products to the test so I ended up stripping part of the trim on the left also.



The rear door trim was divided into 5 sections. It was late in the evening and I was about to lose the light.









From left to right, in alphabetical order, the first 5 products tested were: BlackWOW, CarPro Perl, GTechniq C4, UTTG & ValuGard ETR.









Not sure the photo depicts the real world results but I`ll break it down. All these products are not cheap, especially when you look at the volume of them but they all go a Lllloooooonnnnnnnngggggg way.





BlackWOW ~$45 for 4 oz. kit. (4 oz. PreWow and 4 oz. BlackWOW) I first used the PreWOW cleaner, then applied the BlackWOW. The PreWOW seemed to do a great job of cleaning, but after a treatment of lacquer thinner I can`t say exactly what it is capable of. Application of the BlackWOW was easy (used a makeup foam wedge), as was removing the excess with a wet paper towel as per the directions. A somewhat shiny, dressing type look.



Pros: Effective pre-cleaner, easy to use, effective on all colors of plastic trim (I haven`t tested that yet. I need to find a test subject), watermelon smell.



Cons: Slightly shiny, dressing type look.





CarPro Perl ~$25 for 1 liter. This was my first experience with Perl, though I have heard many great things about it. Dilutes to many ratios, depending on the purpose. For this test I went 1:1. using the same application method as the BlackWOW it took a bit more product on the applicator. At first it went on easy, but it quickly became tacky and required more on the applicator. The look at this ratio was almost identical to the BlackWOW.



Pros: Dilutes for different looks, reasonable price, sprayable for large area coverage, usable on all colors.



Cons: became tacky quickly (this might just be due to working a small area and small amount of product)





GTechnique C4 ~$40 for 15ml (1/2 oz.) Price is comparable to Opti-Coat for the volume, but like Opti-Coat, the coverage is quite reasonable. Once again I applied using a makeup wedge. Very easy to apply (similar to the BlackWOW but without the additional step of the PreWOW. Excess was wiped off with a microfiber towel, I don`t know that there was really any excess. The look was a nice, matte finish that looks the most like new, undressed trim.



Pros: Natural look, easy application, usable on all colors.



Cons: Cost (Not sure of the coverage possible so this may not be an issue in the long run.)





Ultima Tire & Trim Guard Plus ~$32 for 12 oz. This has been my dressing of choice for quality so I am quite familiar with it. Same application method was used, applying generously. I then waited about 5 minutes (a wait of about 15 minutes I have found to be ideal with this product but I wanted to keep moving) then removed the excess with a microfiber towel. The look before removing the excess is rather shiny but after removing the excess it is more of a semi-matte look.



Pros: Spreads easy and far, deep, rich look, usable on all colors.



Cons: Splotchy look if excess not wiped off, wait time before removing excess, long dry time, greasy feel (not once dry on the trim, but on your fingers after application and any that drips down bottle.)





ValuGard ETR kit ~$80 for 4 oz. kit (4 oz. each of 3 parts) I have heard good things about this product but, due to the price, the reviews are few and far between. The section was first cleaned with the New Car Prep (part 1) and a Microfiber towel, then allowed to dry for a few minutes. The Color Guard (part 2) was then applied using a foam paint brush (included). The instructions say to spread evenly but to not try to get rid of all the little bubbles. I was a little disappointed that some of the bubbles remained and left little bumps. Since I only did a small section I wasn`t too worried about it and I figure a little experimentation and practice should eliminate this issue. Once dried (5 minutes as per the directions) I applied the UV Guard using another foam paint brush, allowed it to dry 5 minutes, then applied a second coat as recommended. The look was truly black. Not shiny or greasy looking, but more of a smooth, plastic like look.



Pros: Dramatic color difference, dark, BLACK look.



Cons: Price (again dependent upon coverage as yet to be observed), bubbles, several steps, time to apply/wait time between steps. Only viable on black trim.











After doing the above tests I decided I wanted to add some products. The additions (Left to right): Meguiar`s Hyper Dressing, Forever Black, Forever Black topped with Opti-Coat & Opti-Coat solo.









Meguiar`s Hyper Dressing 2:1 ~$37 per gallon. This was added in just to round out the field. I expect it to come in last in every category except cost. From the photo, though, you can clearly see that it has dramatically improved the look compared to the taped off section. That cost, however, makes it a good product for the times when speed and cost are the priority. I just wanted to see how it compared in looks. Glossiness was similar to that of the BlackWOW and Perl, but any variations in color/fading in the plastic shows through. My usual use for this dressing is wheel wells and engines where it can be sprayed and left to dry.



Pros: Cost, dilute to suit, sprayable for large coverage, speed of use, Grape smell, usable on all colors.



Cons: Already stated.





Forever Black ~$13 for 4 oz. kit. I have used this product several times and have found there is a learning curve. The kit includes a cleaner, though I have found simply using an APC works just fine. Applied using a foam paint brush. The first coat looks very uneven and has lots of bubbles. The bubbles go away as it dries, though on the first coat it might leave some little spots. If you stop here you will be disappointed. After allowing the first coat to dry about 5 minutes a second coat was applied. This made the coverage look much more even and took care of the spots from the bubbles on the first coat. On large surface areas that are nearly smooth it might not ever look perfectly even, but from a step or two away it looks fine. In the past I have put a third coat on, though it is a case of diminishing returns. The look is deep, dark black, though it does sit on the surface and any drips or thick spots can cause a slight change in appearance of the texture, particularly in direct sunlight.



Pros: Cost, easily removed from paint with IPA,



Cons: Will stain skin for days and clothes and driveway permanently, multiple coats necessary, can be tough to get even coverage. Easily removed by tape. (This is a test I plan to do on all sections as I know that UTTG makes taping nearly impossible. Only viable for black trim.





Forever Black topped with Opti-Coat This is being done to see if appearance and durability can be improved. The OC on top made it slightly richer and glossier.





Opti-Coat ~$70 for 20 ml. I remember reading that OC can darken trim, and I know that it does slightly when applied to trim in good condition. I decided to see what it could do to faded trim. At first it darkened a little but as it dried it almost disappeared as you can see in the photos. No need to explain more.















Comparisons: I have stated "shiny/greasy dressing look" for a few of the products. I just want to clarify that such comments are based upon comparing one against the other and not that they are like cheap tire dressings. On a 1-10 scale, with 10 being "vaseline coated" I would say the Gtechniq C4 would come in at about a 3, ValuGard & Forever Black would be about a 4, UTTG would be about a 4.5, Perl, BlackWOW & Meg`s HD would be about a 5. The richness of the products can affect the impression of these as everyone has their own opinions on what they like.



My initial impressions are that these all have a place in my arsenal. I will wait to observe them over time before giving any rankings. For now I will simply say that, from a looks standpoint, right now I would give the nod to GTechnique and ValuGard, each for different reasons. The ValuGard looks great against the dark paint of my car and, I suspect, would look appropriate in a lot of situations. The GTechnique would be my choice if the most natural, original look is the goal.



I will be watching these to observe durability and will update periodically.



A question for anyone who has used GTechniq C4: What sort of durability have you gotten from it?

[fabz]

Excelent review, please keep us posted. Thank you

[C. Charles Hahn]

ValuGard ETR kit



Cons: Price (again dependent upon coverage as yet to be observed), bubbles, several steps, time to apply/wait time between steps. Only viable on black trim.

You might want to shoot a message to Beth @ AI (one of Ron K.`s contacts) and ask about getting a bottle of the Toner (no longer included in the kits). It will within reason allow for use on gray trim, though I was told to be conservative with it as it can cause adhesion issues when used heavily.

[Ron Ketcham]

[BPlease allow me to add a couple of things.

1. Just as a new OEM part has a higher gloss when new, after a few weeks or a month, they "tone down" and gain the apperance that everyone sees every day, but not to point that they turn grey, etc. The finished application of ETR is a bit more glossy the first couple of weeks, and then, just as a new piece of trim, "tone down" a bit, but do NOT turn grey etc for several years.

2. To see exactly how to use the ETR system, visit ValuGard.net and the training video that is on the website.

[/B]

[Nth Degree]

Update:



After about a week and a half on the trim I have had a few surprises. One product has truly impressed me so far, while another has been beyond disappointing.



One surprise after just one day of being on the trim was that UTTG had a bit of fading in richness. Since I have used UTTG as my go-to dressing for some time I was a little shocked. Over the course of a week, however, it held strong from that point. It seems it has some extended cure time.



Rain on the second night seemed to have little, if any, affect on any of the the products. On the morning of day 2 I applied a small piece of blue painters tape to each section.









After leaving on for about 5 minutes I removed the tape. Most performed as expected. In the following photo, on the far left was the Meguiar`s Hyper Dressing 2:1. It was the most faded after a day and a half and a light rain. The tape pulled off most of what remained.



Next to that was the Forever Black. From previous experience I knew the tape would remove the product. The section with Forever Black topped with Opti-Coat held up much better to the tape, but some of it was still removed, creating a light spot.









Next up was BlackWow (left) and Carpro Perl (right). BlackWow was another big fail against the tape. For being just a dressing I felt that Perl resisted the tape satisfactorily.









The final were GTechniq C4 (left), UTTG (center) and Valugard ETR (right). GTechniq was the only product that was completely unaffected by the tape. UTTG had a slightly changed look where the tape was. Notable with the UTTG is that the tape doesn`t stick well to it, more so than any other of the products. The biggest fail in this test was the ETR. It peeled right up with the tape. It reminded me of peeling off Plasti-Dip.









At this point I inquired to Ron Ketcham for his thoughts on why the ETR performed so poorly, as this certainly wasn`t what I expected based upon other information I have read about it and the price point. He informed me that it could be something "in the plastic" such as an internal releasing agent. Since I had used lacquer thinner to strip off the old Forever Black that was previously on the trim I figured it could have been my own error and did not want to give a poor review if it isn`t accurate. In addition to the tape peeling it off, it also rubbed off very easily with a finger with a nitrile glove on, as can be seen in the lower part of the section in this photo.









I then tested each section with a wipe of Meguiar`s APC+ 10:1. No surprises here. All the coating held up well and the dressings each faded a little.



Then I stepped it up and hit the lower half of each with straight 70% IPA. The dressings were again affected about as expected. The coatings varied. The GTechniq has some whitening happen, but that seemed to have disappeared again after a day or two, so I`m not sure I didn`t drag some other product over it. The Forever Black left a slight bit of dye on the towel. The real shocker, again, was the ETR. The IPA stripped it very easily. This wasn`t a peeling off issue but, rather, a cutting through from the top.









I also took a pressure washer to the trim. The sections were too small to really observe beading but all but the ETR held up fine against the pressure. What remained of the ETR was completely removed quite easily by the pressure washer. I can only wonder how long it would last through a touchless wash.



My overall impressions:



Meguiar`s Hyper Dressing looked great for a day or two but faded fast, as expected. Still looks better than undressed sections, but it really was outclassed against this lineup.



Forever Black, except for the tape test, is decent for the price. When topped with Opti-Coat it looks a little deeper and is more resistant to chemicals. A good option for those with a tight budget needing to improve severely damaged black trim. Durable under most conditions.



BlackWow has been underwhelming. It is barely outperforming the Perl right next to it.



Perl, for a water based dressing is holding up well. In the first day or two it was neck and neck with UTTG. For the ease of use I thought it might be my new favorite dressing for trim. Over the course of a week it has slipped a little but not much more than the BlackWow. I`m still rather impressed by it.



GTechniq C4 has totally impressed me. Not only does it give the most natural, rich finish without being over-glossy or altering the color, but it has remained relatively unaffected through the testing. It is also the fastest & easiest of the coatings/restorers to apply. While it is a little pricey I would say it is worth every penny. I have not tested on severely bleached or sun damaged trim nor seen the durability yet but it is hands down the leader so far.



UTTG performed as I have come to know it often does. I was just a little surprised at the initial fading since I don`t often have other products right next to it to compare, but as time passes it is proving to be the longest lasting dressing of the bunch. Based on experience I expect it to last a few months or more.



ValuGard ETR: I don`t even have the words to describe the disappoinment. As the most expensive product by far in the showdown it has delivered the least. Even at 1/4 the price I`m not sure I would be satisfied. The peeling I could believe was a result of contamination but the failure to hold up against IPA leaves me doubtful.





Due to the possible affects the lacquer thinner cleaning could cause I have decided that this test needs to be redone on another test subject. I really hope that the ETR can perform better. I don`t like giving such horrible reviews unless truly warranted. I may also be adding Solution Finish to the lineup. I would love to add CarPro DLux but can`t bring myself to spend any more money on products just to test. Stay tuned for the retest & updates.

[David Fermani]

Thanks for the update!

[Accumulator]

Nth Degree-Thanks for the update!



I`m kinda relieved that the UTTP performed so well as I would like to just keep using it but will reluctantly switch if something that sounds better comes along (I was wondering about the GTechniq, but I like how the UTTP looks and I`m all about durability).



I too suspect that something "in the plastic" is interfering with the ETR, I recall there were some issues with other plastic bits on certain GM trucks in this regard and it might be the same sort of thing here. The pieces I`ve done with it *stayed* OK. No, I didn`t do the tape test, but the stuff is really *on there*.

[Ron Ketcham]

Sometimes, people just don`t read or follow instruction for the use of a product.

Example-"Do not expose to water or cleaners for 24 hours after application.".

Second is "logic", and that is a subject that requires one to read, follow directions and consider such things as what surface, correct dry time, and the use of clorinated solvents being applied to any surface that has a "coating" applied.

Guess the "so called test" is why the vehicle manufacturers don`t "shoot from the cuff" when testing any product. They have "test protocals", done by independant labs to assure that a product performs as they desire.

The "interference" has to do with the substrate of the plastic surface to which the ETR is applied, IE-plastic parts produced using an internal release agent in their production. This release agent continues to leech up to the surface of the part as it ages. Much like the micro waxes to protect from UV rays regarding tires.

All the "washing/solvents" etc used will not remove this release agent from any plastic part produced using such as an "internal release agent`. It is just wiped from the top surfaces and then continues to migrate up through the part. In other words, it stops any "coating" from really attaching and becoming a permanent coating, and that coating will then release from the surface.

Any automotive painter is quite farmilar with this concern, especially on many bumper fascia`s and such over the years.

There are special, and costly, solvent based cleaners that will reduce the migration of such release agents, but over time, the applied coatings to such parts will exhibit failure.

The "GM" product you refer to were the first three years of the Chevy Avalance production and it`s "cladding". Even GM gave up on that one and changed suppliers to those who actually used exterior release agents in place of the cheaper internal release agents. Cost a bit more but reduced their warranty costs by a few million dollars.

[Nth Degree]

Sometimes, people just don`t read or follow instruction for the use of a product.

Example-"Do not expose to water or cleaners for 24 hours after application.".

Second is "logic", and that is a subject that requires one to read, follow directions and consider such things as what surface, correct dry time, and the use of clorinated solvents being applied to any surface that has a "coating" applied.

Guess the "so called test" is why the vehicle manufacturers don`t "shoot from the cuff" when testing any product. They have "test protocals", done by independant labs to assure that a product performs as they desire.

The "interference" has to do with the substrate of the plastic surface to which the ETR is applied, IE-plastic parts produced using an internal release agent in their production. This release agent continues to leech up to the surface of the part as it ages. Much like the micro waxes to protect from UV rays regarding tires.

Test section was not exposed to water within 24 hours. The tape test was done on day 2 only to determine whether it would be safe to tape off for polishing after applying. The APC and IPA tests were done at the 1 week mark.





I acknowledge that there could have been some contamination on the test panel and will give it another chance on a different test subject.



Having controlled conditions with specific "test protocols" is great for product developement, proving claims, and developing application instructions but if a product is so temperamental that it needs to be applied and kept in a clean room for 24 hours then it isn`t practical for everyday, "real world" use. No matter how many times I give post-detail instructions to customers there are always some who do not follow them. Likewise, if a product will not work properly on a significant number of vehicles then it isn`t a great product and should have a disclaimer and perhaps a list of vehicles it is known to not be compatible with. I don`t want to spend the time and waste product restoring a customer`s trim only to find it falls in that group of incompatible vehicles. It could cost me time, money and possibly my reputation. It would also be inconvenient to have to do a test and wait a few days to see if it is going to hold up. A product would have to be significantly better than any alternative to be worth the extra work. I also can`t imagine a customer being happy if they spent the money for the product to do their own trim restoration only to find that their car is one of those "not compatible" vehicles. Unless the company has a liberal satisfaction guarantee that begins to fall into the "poor customer service" category in my mind.

[Meticulous]

Awesome review! UTTG is my go to trim dressing. I also use it as a wheel coating, which can be a little streaky but just requires a final buff.

[Richard@BlackWOW]

Chris--Thanks for sending me the link to our review. Unfortunately your application process for Black Wow was neither optimal nor correct. I am not at all surprised your results were underwhelming. First off, when you prep your plastic for Black Wow, and you`re using Pre-Wow, PW is a pretreater as much as a precleaner. You use it to prep the area for Black Wow. If you strip it off, you`ve really lost any benefits of it and comparing it to lacquer thinner is showing that you don`t really understand it`s place in the 2 part process. Here is a video showing how Pre-Wow is used to prep parts for Black Wow and the way I like to use it.







Secondly, Black Wow gets its durability by absorbing into the material. If you apply it and wipe it off, you aren`t giving it time to absorb. The more oxidized the plastic is, the more it will absorb. Once it reaches saturation, it won`t absorb anymore and it won`t need touching up. The condition of the plastic will affect how many times touchup is needed.



Thirdly, which you fail to mention against Forever Black which is a dye based product, Black Wow works on ANY color plastic.



Fourthly, is that trim piece hard rubber or plastic? Black Wow is for textured plastic not rubber.



Fifth--I`ll save you some time. Parts treated with Black Wow cannot be taped. The tape won`t stick, so I apply tape to the paint just above the plastic. It maybe inconvenient but it`s also why it resists environmental contaminants so well.



How I use PW and BW. I wash the car. Use PW on all the plastic trim parts using a white painters rag which gives it some bite as well. I soap the car and rinse it off. I detail/polish the car. Tape off what`s needed. I use Black WOW, then I wax. I let BW absorb for as long as possible, overnight if possible, if not, give it a few hours. THEN wipe it dry before delivery. Black WOW has a satin/matte look when it`s been absorbed. If it`s shiny, you`ve applied too much, it hasn`t absorbed yet, or the materials you applied it to won`t accept it and if it gets wet, it will run.



Finally--I am ALWAYs available to help my customers with my products whether by phone or email. My toll free number 866 707 9292 goes directly to my cell phone and I gladly walk my customers through any issues or confusion. It`s been that way since I started Black Wow in 2007. I`m always surprised to find reviews on my products and the OPs haven`t consulted with me. I`m on Facebook as ShowCarDetailing and OnlyWow, I have websites, I am on detailing forums as OctaneGuy.



Here is Black Wow on a Honda Element that lives outside 24/7 after 7 months. The plastic is dirty and needs a wash..as does the entire car. This was treated with PreWow and then Black Wow.





I documented it since application for anyone curious just how long Black Wow will last on the FB OnlyWow page. This is on a car with over 210,000 miles that was neglected for most of its life from the previous owner.



Here is how it looked when it was first applied in January and of course it was clean as well

[Nth Degree]

Thank you for your response, Richard. Based upon your response I can see that I may not have been entirely clear about a few things. I will address your points in order.



1. Lacquer thinner was used to remove the previously applied Forever Black. I then wiped with IPA to remove the thinner. I then applied each product per the instructions so I did use the PW and did not expect the lacquer thinner to substitute it. Based upon the results of a few of the products I believe it is possible that some of the solvent remained on/in the plastic and caused interferance.



2. I allowed the BW to sit for a few minutes but definitely did not let penetrate for long. I will be sure to give it much longer on the retest.



3. I did mention in the pros & cons of each product in the original post whether it was limited to only black or viable on any color.



4. It is black, textured plastic and not rubber.



5. The ability to tape off trim is important for doing paint correction. Since my test was to determine, not only what product to use but, also whether or not the selected product could be applied at the same time since I would be Opti-Coating the paint of an Avalanche. I simply wanted to know if the products could withstand tape or not to determine my order of operations.



Since I subjected each section to harsh and worst-case conditions I know I will need to redo the test and allow them to undergo normal conditions for an extended time.