i got an idea if you dont like S+R dont use it ! and stop trashin steve
i got an idea if you dont like S+R dont use it ! and stop trashin steve
Originally Posted by West6MT
I spoke to Steve about this and he said the one of the reason to dilute is to extended the product out....the other is that most cars don`t need it at full strength....I do 50/50 because most all the cars that I work on are not that bad and I yet to find a car that really required full strength.....if needed I have that ready....second weekly use of any harsh cleaner on a rim over time is going to harm the finish IMO....chrome maybe the exception here...I had some BBS rims on a car that the centers where anodized....I started to notice after five years that they where loosing there finish....I used all kinds of cleaners on these most all where very aggressive....degreasers, wheel cleaners, etc.....I know that it eat threw the finish in some areas....these where also protected rims as well...that`s my take
Old Enough To Know Better, Too Stupid To Care....
Dave`s Detailing
Sonoma County, CA
Maybe I`m off, but I avoid abrasive cleaners by:
1. Getting it clean.
2. Applying Wheel Sealant
3. Washing with water & soap
This way i only need to spray chemicals on my alum wheels every 3 months or so. I do use a cut APC to clean the tires.
Brenton Dickieson
1:1 for me too.
I think Eagle One Wheel clean(Orange bottle one) its more fatal than PB S+R Wheel Cleaner. Its just my 2cents yo.
First this product was originally intended for professional use only. Then seeing that most of the people on the detailing boards would probably use some caution we released it to the general community. This and most wheel cleaners should be used as needed not as a weekly cleaner. They are strong products. As some have stated before, if a wheel is cleaned, polished, and sealed, then it should take little effort during a normal wash to clean them. If you are a Professional or a Weekend detailer , you may run into customers cars that were not well maintained and may need a strong product like Spray & Rinse to clean them, especially if you are on the clock trying to make money.
For those of you who just can`t bend over and scrub a wheel (like me ) yes a dilution of 1:1 or up to 3 or 4 :1 will do the job without having to squat or bend for wheel cleaning during a wash.
I was a regular user of ArmorAll wheel cleaner until I noticed that it started to eat away the paint on my hubs. I would only leave it on for like less than 30sec.
2005 Altima 2.5S :boxing:
Few years ago I sprayed my wheels and a strong wind came up by the time I grabed the hoose it etched my window. The products can kick butt and you best be carefull and read the directions.
For weekly maintenance try S&W on the wheel liberally. It gets just about everything off sealed wheels with no scrubbing.
I use a mild soap if my wheels have Wheel Sealant on them and that works fine.
Lee
ES330 in Millenium Silver
Why would you need to liberally spray a wheel cleaner on sealed wheels? You shouldn`t need any wheel cleaner, and certainly not a generous amount.Originally Posted by Sherman8r44
-Paul
`99 Mazda Protege LX 5spd: AIO + UPPx2 + Nattys
15x7 ASA JS1 / Kumho Ecsta SPT 205/50/15
Spray and Wipe, not Spray and rinse.Originally Posted by White95Max
2003.5 Desert Platinum Infiniti G35 Sedan
Biweekly Routine---Wash: Foam gun + NXT Wash (Microfibers), then topped with #16 or OCW.
LOL whoops! Never mind.
-Paul
`99 Mazda Protege LX 5spd: AIO + UPPx2 + Nattys
15x7 ASA JS1 / Kumho Ecsta SPT 205/50/15
well this was bugging me so i plucked out my phydrion insta check 0-13 ph strips.
I will post pics.
I used pepsi for the acid, water for the neutral, and S&R for what should be the base.
for reference HF acid should be hydrofluoric acid HF 2.1 on the ph scale. anything lower than that would not be HF.
First pic is of the tester
the 2nd pic is of all three liquids. left to right. pepsi, water, snr
tester
all three
Pepsi around a ph of 5
water there is a slight green tinge indicating 7 ph, water takes a while longer to turn the strip.
SNR around a ph of 3.5-4
The striking similarities between ABF and HFl
http://www.carwash.com/article.asp?IndexID=6631269
Originally Posted by G35stilez
Originally Posted by bren wrx
-ABF is perceived as 20x safer than HFl
-ABF forms when ammonium hydroxide reacts with HFl
-ABF becomes Hfl when mixed with water or liquid cleaning solutions
- "Hydrogen fluoride and ammonium bifluoride. are created for industrial use only,"
-US CPSC has documented dozens of injuries and deaths from misuse of ABF
-" Whether fluoride ions enter body tissues as the result of inhalation or skin contact, they cause deep, progressive burning that may quickly lead to multi-organ failure and death. Long-term exposure to even minimal amounts of ABF can lead to brittle bones, weight loss, anemia, and calcified ligaments."
-ABF is harmful to lungs, skin, eyes, and kidneys
-The effects of ABF and HFl take time to set in
-Flouride (which makes them dangerous) in ABF is higher
-HF odor is more distinctive
-" If a wash owner chooses to use ABF or HF, experts say the wash should be equipped with a safety shower and eye-irrigation system. If employees will handle these products, they should be provided with gloves, goggles and aprons. If HF or ABF will be used in mist form, which is not recommended, wash employees should also wear masks or respirators."
-Lethal doses of ABF and HF are estimated between one teaspoon and one ounce.
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