What to follow SSR2.5 with? (pics)

**98gtx** · 12-29-2005, 12:10 PM

I plan on using SSR2.5 with an orange light cut pad on my PC. Should I go straight to a sealant or wax or SSR1?

Here`s a link to some pics. I could not upload them here b/c the files were larger than 1.0kb. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jsgt520/album?.dir=/b0d4

I just clayed it and used an orange pad with Meg #80. But I think it needs something to dig in a bit more. There`s still some scratches and lines. The previous owner never detailed it. Just routine washes. Its a 2003.

I`m thinking it will come out like glass with the right combo. I would appreciate your advice guys. Thanks.

**jaybs02** · 12-29-2005, 12:30 PM

That depends on what it looks like after you get done with it, you will probably have to go over it with a polishing pad, but you can determine what to use after you get done with the lite cut pad. Some people have been able to go to a LSP right after SSR2.5, and others will go over it again with SSR1 with a polishing pad

HTH

Happy Holidays
"J"

**Poorboy** · 12-29-2005, 01:37 PM

with GM paint multiple passes with the orange pad may be needed and then I would use a white polishing pad , maybe a couple passes before moving to SSR1 on a finishing pad...remember black shows more imperfections , so more time removing them is needed to get the best look. Don`t put a LSP on until you are totally satisfied with the polishing work

**98gtx** · 12-29-2005, 02:18 PM

Thanks a lot guys. I just ordered up a bunch of PB stuff and will keep you posted. I will put emphasis on the SSR2.5 stage- like you said, this is where your results come from. Everything else makes it look pretty.

**Brenton** · 12-29-2005, 03:27 PM

btw Steve I just spent 10 hours removing transport damage on a Mitsu Outlander, black. The paint looked really faded after a huge treatment with 2.5 and a wool pad. I hit it with a light cut and SSR1 (my first time) and the paint bounced right back beautifully. I didn`t have to follow with a lighter polish or ligther pad in my case.

**lonewolf0420** · 12-29-2005, 03:41 PM

I found that following up with PwC and Natty`s blue (both have carnuba) worked best for my blck car. The shine is deep even when its dirty and alot less spotting from moisture.

**Poorboy** · 12-29-2005, 04:33 PM

Originally Posted by PEI Detail

btw Steve I just spent 10 hours removing transport damage on a Mitsu Outlander, black. The paint looked really faded after a huge treatment with 2.5 and a wool pad. I hit it with a light cut and SSR1 (my first time) and the paint bounced right back beautifully. I didn`t have to follow with a lighter polish or ligther pad in my case.

The results you get obviously show off you abilities...products are a piece of the puzzle, but using them to their fullest ability usually comes from practice and experience.

Originally Posted by lonewolf0420

I found that following up with PwC and Natty`s blue (both have carnuba) worked best for my blck car. The shine is deep even when its dirty and alot less spotting from moisture.

That`s a good combo, one that Natty and I prefer on our own cars, but it`s a subjective view and everyone has their own taste in depth, gloss, reflection, etc. Natty`s defintely helps to prevent water spotting whether it`s blue or white