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  1. #91

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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ_JonnyV
    BTW, my new black velcro equipped bp just showed up at work. I`ll try to swap them out this evening and post some pics. Might be tomorrow night though since I have to finish a home theater install this evening.


    Sweet!!! That was quick...



    That`s exactly what I was trying to see if I could do with my Velcro...thus far I`ve had no problems like you’re showing. That’s REAL good to know though and the picture shows exactly what I’m presuming Flex said may happen. Hence why they are changing the Velcro.

  2. #92

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    Quote Originally Posted by frostydog
    I think the real risk is what happened to youâ€hitting something with the backing plate. If you’re using 6.5†pads there isn’t much pad “overhang†from the BP for a buffer (hardly none). And the backing plate on this thing is hard, unlike the PC flexible type BP’s.
    Unfortunately, I have "proved" to myself and to the paint that edge of "flexible" bp on PC is just as dangerous. I don`t know what I would be rather repairing, narrow clean nick from thin firm plate or wide spread paint rub from flexible bp.



    So, I would say it is a risk of any tool of this kind and that we shouldn`t be taking it against any tool in particular. 7.5+" pads for rotary are available with recessed design that shields paint from bp. Unfortunately I don`t see that available in 6.5" ones.



    What concerns me more is that thin non-flexible bp is more prone to risk of shattering when it contacts something. It raises importance of wearing eye protection and having spare bp or two.



    Quote Originally Posted by frostydog
    Also, regarding the Velcro backing on the Flex BPâ€you mentioned you see this being a problem. I have to say after hearing about the new Velcro I went home and took a pretty close look at mine. I tried lightly “picking†at it to see if I had any issuesâ€and thus far it seems pretty secure to me.
    I haven`t had Velcro separation of the extent DJ had, I had just surface becoming slightly "wavey" that went away when plate cooled down (I guess glue getting soft), but on the other hand I was not making anything as hot as DJ was, while surface was very warm I did not need to pull hand away like he did.



    DJ, based on your descriptions (full speed, Power Gloss, metal so hot you have to pull hand away) you might be too aggressive with your paint. I am concerned about thickness of clear left behind.

  3. #93

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZoranC

    DJ, based on your descriptions (full speed, Power Gloss, metal so hot you have to pull hand away) you might be too aggressive with your paint. I am concerned about thickness of clear left behind.


    Yeah, going forward from there, I did take it easier on sections where I was trying to get a tougher scratch out. I worked it a lot less and would just leave it go. That`s about when the trigger goes off in your head, "hey, dumba$$, don`t screw up the paint job...". You have to remember that the owner will be stoked evn if you don`t get every scratch/blemish out. There`s some that you just can`t get.



    On my red velcro, I noticed that it pulled away when i was switching pads at one point. I pulled one off and saw what is pictured above. It sure does start running pretty hot up in the head area.

  4. #94

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    So, I would say it is a risk of any tool of this kind and that we shouldn`t be taking it against any tool in particular.
    very true...I to (as most I`m sure) have had a paint rub caused from the flexable PC BP`s. I was also thinking of possibly cracking a mirror, lens, etc..with the hard BP, kind of like what almost happend to DJ.



    In regards to the 7.5" pads...I`ve been giving them some thought. What are your thoughts about using the Flex (or any forced rotation RO for that matter) with 7.5 inch pads??



    I started thinking about them not for added protection from the BP...but rather, the more I use the Flex the more I find myself lifting up one side of the pad (much like you would with a rotary) to get into tight or awkward spots, A Pillars, etc...



    This is obviously somewhat hard to do with a 6.5 inch "flat" pad...but the 7.5 inch pads have that nice taper to allow for such an angle.



    With the PC if it was a tight area that I HAD to get I would switch to the 4" pads, but without that option, I started angling the Flex with the 6.5" pad to get into tight spots.



    Although I would still like to use the pad flat as well...are the 7.5" pads ok to use flat on the paint as you would a 6.5"?? I`m thinking probably not...

  5. #95

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    I know Zoran has a Cyclo and hasn`t really had an opportunity to test out the Flex yet, but can any of you other guys comment on the performance of the Flex versus the Cyclo? If not, Zoran, I`d be interested in your observations concerning both machines.



    Also, any thoughts on Flex versus Makita 6040?
    Tom, 2013 Nissan Altima 3.5SL

  6. #96

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    I posted a question earlier "UDM vs Cyclo". Now I`m wondering if the question should be Flex vs Cyclo? (for those of us with a PC).

  7. #97

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    Quote Originally Posted by toml
    I know Zoran has a Cyclo and hasn`t really had an opportunity to test out the Flex yet, but can any of you other guys comment on the performance of the Flex versus the Cyclo? If not, Zoran, I`d be interested in your observations concerning both machines.



    Also, any thoughts on Flex versus Makita 6040?
    Quote Originally Posted by cjbigcog
    I posted a question earlier "UDM vs Cyclo". Now I`m wondering if the question should be Flex vs Cyclo? (for those of us with a PC).


    Sorry guys...I haven`t used the Cyclo to be able to comment. However, IIRC I`ve read at least a couple threads comparing the PC to the Cyclo. By reading those reviews you may be able to draw a "dotted line" comparing the 3 polishers.



    In my field of work (finance) there is a sayingâ€â€no one number in isolationâ€. That is to say, there is no silver bullet. No magic percent, formula, ratio, etcâ€that tells/shows everything about a business’ performance. Each adds it’s own valueâ€then there is the beautiful GRAY area. The gray area is where your own personal requirements, needs, wants, desires, etcâ€comes into play. Your “gut feelâ€.



    I’m going to coin a phrase for Autopians everywhereâ€



    â€no one product in isolationâ€



    Sorry about getting off topicâ€



    I remember reading a thread a while back about the Cycloâ€IIRC the poster commented that the Cylco was modestly quicker than the PC, maybe produced a slightly better finishâ€but he said he just LOVED using the machine. He couldn’t wait to pick it up. To him the Cyclo was omnipotent; it was truly perfect. It had nothing to do with how it corrected or finished or its speedâ€to him it was all about the enjoyment he got from using it.



    I guess where I’m going is...what’s best or should be compared is different for all.



    With that said, as alwaysâ€I’ll try my best to answer any questions about the Flex in an unbiased manner.

  8. #98

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    What has been your experience in using the Flex in small curved areas like bumpers? With the PC, I`ve been able to polish the upper part of the rear bumper using only part of the pad. With the Flex, I wonder if that would really be possible due to the forced rotation. Or do you just have to have firm hand pressure at that point?
    Tom, 2013 Nissan Altima 3.5SL

  9. #99

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    Tomi - using the Flex for this should not be a problem as I just did it today on an Acura RL I detailed. From the way it sounds like you were using your PC, you would use the Flex the same way. I`ve been able to "feather" it in areas such as bumpers. Just be careful not to crack the backing plate against anything. Actually, in real tight areas I`ll still use the PC and a 4" Edge 2k pad.

  10. #100

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    Quote Originally Posted by toml
    What has been your experience in using the Flex in small curved areas like bumpers? With the PC, I`ve been able to polish the upper part of the rear bumper using only part of the pad. With the Flex, I wonder if that would really be possible due to the forced rotation. Or do you just have to have firm hand pressure at that point?


    It`s definitely possibe, its just what you said...you just have to have a firm grip and be paying attention. If anything I polish more of my car with a 6.5" pad and the Flex than I would with a PC. With the PC I would "usually" change to a 4" pad to get tight or narrow areas. With the Flex you can work on just one side of the pad much better than you can with the PC; making it possible to get into tight areas.



    The Flex def takes a firmer grip than a PC...but I never had it just shoot off on it`s own or do anything crazy like that. It`s kind of surprising when you first start using it because it pulls and feels very different than a PC. But that`s about it...it feels different, in no way is it uncontrollable. For the most part you do need to use two hands and pay a little more attention, but really very little more than what`s required to operate a PC. The more I use it the less "wild" it feels.

  11. #101

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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ_JonnyV
    Tomi - using the Flex for this should not be a problem as I just did it today on an Acura RL I detailed. From the way it sounds like you were using your PC, you would use the Flex the same way. I`ve been able to "feather" it in areas such as bumpers. Just be careful not to crack the backing plate against anything. Actually, in real tight areas I`ll still use the PC and a 4" Edge 2k pad.




    ^^oops...I guess we were typing at the same time, I obviously type slow.



    Looks as though were on the same page.



    DJ, you should try lifting the back of the pad off the paint. I`ve been able to get into some norrow areas using only half (or less) of the pad while lifting the back side just slightly off the paint. I think this method works great for narrow areas like A pillars and such...but for tight areas with the strong possibility of hitting something, like under the side mirrors, agreed 4" and PC.

  12. #102

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    Hey, Frostydog, thanks for the tip. I`ve actually been working on the lift technique and was getting a pretty good hang of it today on the RL I did. I still didn`t have the cajones (sp?) to tilt that thing, or the PC w/ 4" for that matter, down the front of the A-pillar. It`s literally abotu 1" wide. Yeah, that got the hand treatment with some 1z Paint Polish, along with sideviews and door handles. I definitely appreciate the tips though, so keep them coming!!!

  13. #103

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    So no problems with the Flex? I have been keeping up with this thread and am really looking forward to getting one. It all sounds great what the few people that have them are saying. I want one mainly to save time. PC just takes too long. I`d like to make one pass and make it LSP ready, that would be nice.

  14. #104

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    Quote Originally Posted by MobileJay
    So no problems with the Flex? I have been keeping up with this thread and am really looking forward to getting one. It all sounds great what the few people that have them are saying. I want one mainly to save time. PC just takes too long. I`d like to make one pass and make it LSP ready, that would be nice.


    No problems with the Flex so far with the small exception of the red velcro coming unglued. But, the guys at Powerhouse were extremely quick at getting me a replacement. You probably already have, but you might want to check out what I did here:



    http://autopia.org/forum/machine-pol...t-ordered.html



    on an Acura RL this weekend. It was hard to get pics of the swirling on the silver paint, but it was there. Using my standard technique with the Flex, Menz IP, orange pad, and speed 6, it finished things up nicely for LSP. And to be completely honest with you, I`ve even been able to break down Menzerna Power Gloss to LSP ready using a yellow pad as well. Now keep in mind that I do an up/down and right/left with no pressuer after my correcting action, and then gear down to about a 4 and do a little more. I`m not sure how much this is helping to clean things up after correction, but it seems to be working for me. I remember doing the hood on my A6 and getting after it pretty good with PG, and my neighbor watching over my shoulder. Hell, he couldn`t believe the shine coming off that thing with PG.



    My personal opinion anymore is that if you are looking to get a machine polisher, and don`t want to go straight into rotary, then Flex is the way to go. Now, keep in mind we are still waiting for some more detailed revies on the Makita BO6040 and Bosch DEVS1250. Yeah, there`s also the Festool out there, but at $440 + pads + polishes, you`re looking at over 5 bills. I wouldn`t even bother getting into a PC/UDM initially. The only benefit I see to these would be applying LSP and cleaning carpet. Well, I take that back a little bit. Using my PC with 4" spot pads is pretty sweet for hitting a tight area or just doing a bad scratch here or there.



    So, have you already ordered one?

  15. #105

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    hi.

    I`m have one car (white Nissan 350z) with light swirl and I may need to polish it every 5-6 months, or may be once a year. Do you guys think it`s too much to get Flex ? or should I get a UDM ? I don`t have any machine now, and never do any polish work before. If I get UDM, I can do 3" spot correction, and carpet brush, right? But I`ll lose correction power of Flex.

 

 
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