Originally Posted by
frostydog
My quick thoughts on the "heat factor"...
When I was done polishing my car (white pad), I went to peel the pad off the backing plate and did notice a significantly higher amount of heat on both the pad and BP, vs what I would`ve with the PC. I was hardly shocked by this, but it was quite noticeable.
I should also note that to correct the nasty scratch I had on my hood I was working the polisher in an area of about a 1.5ft x 1.5ft (always keeping the polisher moving). I was using an orange pad, Menz IP and the highest speed of the polisher. I`d spread the polish and work it for about 20-30 seconds in that small area until the polish broke down. I was also using some force (pressing down) on the polisher. I had to do this process a couple times to remove the scratch. I checked the paint temp (with my hand) after each round...and while the paint was surely warm, it didn`t feel hot to me. I also waited a couple minutes between each round to let the paint cool down a bit.
In no way am I saying the Flex can`t burn paint (I just haven`t used it enough to know for sure)...but I def agree with the others that the margin of error lies between a PC and a rotary. I`m really thinking you`d have to be pretty negligent to burn your paint with the Flex, though the risk is probably there. Where there`s probably just about zero risk of it happening with a PC.
This is a hard question, largely because I haven`t used the UDM. If you currently do not own a PC...I`d probably have to suggest the UDM, just based on it`s versatility vs the Flex. Remember the Flex only has one backing plate/tool to use with the machine. There`s many different BP`s, foam pad sizes, carpet brushes, etc...for the PC/UDM.
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