My First Go.. A Tale of Woe.

[Mike262]

Well I`ve dove in head first and I am looking for some feedback on the challenges I met along the way. First off, I am detailing my own vehicle, a newly acquired 2011 black Nissan Rouge. When I picked up the vehicle I noticed all the swirl marks and minor scratches. I knew it was not worth arguing with the dealer at the time so I set out to learn as much as I can, get some decent products and give it a shot.

I had a large block of time last Wednesday afternoon/evening so I figured it was as good a time as any. I was also going away for the weekend the next day so I didn`t have to worry about getting up for work.

I started out with a two bucket wash using CG MaxiSuds. That went well. I dried the car with the air gun and a weave towel. Next I pulled it into the bay with all the lights on and began to inspect the areas that would need more attention. The car has noticeable orange peel almost everywhere but there is nothing that will be done about that at this time. I clay barred the whole car using PB S&W as lube. That went well too. I then rinsed the car and re dried.

Due to the large amount of swirls, the "Hard Clear Coat" sticker under the hood and the scratches I started with M105 and a 6 inch Orange cool wave pad on the DA. This is where things got interesting. I primed the pad and then put of three spots on the pad. I tried to spread it around before turning on the polisher. It seemed to just dry up and not really do anything. So then I put more on and kept going. I feel that I was using too much of the product during application compared to all the instructions I had read. I powered through realizing that I would need to use a substantial amount of pressure to get the compound to do any work. I got some decent results on the lighter swirls and scratches but some others were still visible. I shoved on in this journey to the m205 stage with a blue cool wave pad. I used lighter pressure on that and it looked pretty good. I am going to need to work on my correcting skills but for now it will do. I will give it another shot before Winter when I strip it down and build it back up. I may try a MF pad and I will DEF be using a smaller set up. This damn car has more nooks and crannies than an English muffin. Also, I cleaned the pad often with a brush and air.

Next, the worst step of this process. If I was describing a trans Atlantic crossing in a ship this would be where we hit the hurricane. EX-P. I knew I wanted a sealant and this seemed like a good all around option. I had a white pad for it but I choose to apply it by hand using a foam applicator pad. I started on the roof then worked my way around the car. I let it sit for about 30 mins (prolly around 60 total by the time I got to each section). I got out my new plush microfiber towel and started buffing...nothing. The amount of sheer force needed to remove the thinly applied film was staggering. Finally through a fair amount of sweat, multiple curses and multiple microfiber towels I though I had removed it all. It looked like I had removed it all. I let the car sit until Sunday when I returned outside in the sun. It did not rain at all.

Then I give it a quick wash and applied a layer of Natty Blue. It was lookin pretty good. Two days later it rained for the whole day with extreme prejudice. Upon inspection I noticed a bunch of spots where it looked like I had not buffed off the sealant. WTF Mate? I could not do anything about it during the week. This weekend I gave it a really good wash then used... Bug Squash actually... on the spots that remained with a MF towel. That seemed to get the spots off with a little persuasion. I then rinsed it off and applied another layer of Natty Blue.

Take Aways:
I need to practice with M105 and M205. I think with a little more patience and the right tools I will be able to get those pesky swirls.

I dread the idea of using EX-P again. I can`t figure out where I went wrong. It was applied thinly it sat for the directed time. I dunno. It was warm outside, nighttime and i am not sure of the humidity but it`s been pretty bad here in NJ.

The Natty Blue is good. I expected a little more beading but that may be due to built up expectations of reading almost every post in the forum.

I will keep at it and find a combo that i am happy with. It is very enjoyable and satisfying to see it in the driveway.

[Nth Degree]

You didn`t mention what DA you used or what speed. That can make a difference, but you definitely need to go down to 5.5" pads for correction.

I can`t speak about the EX-P since I haven`t used it, but I can tell you that people often think they are spreading sealants thin but in most cases they don`t have anything to compare it to. Usually "thin" means that as long as you see it on the paint it is thick enough. Products are almost always spread too thick when done by hand.

Black isn`t a color, it`s a part time job.

[tropicsteve]

it does get easier once your corrections are finished. then you have to try every new finish that comes out. welcome to detailing.
p.s. your ride looks good.

[cleanmycorolla]

Did you do any sort of polishing oil stripping befor applying EXP? Most people use IPA or something to remove polishing oils to ensure a proper bond if an LSP. Perhaps what you`re seeing is actually polish residue.

[Mike262]

I used a harbor freight DA. A friend had bought it with intentions of detailing and quickly lost interest. He never opened it and just gave it to me. Seemed like a good starting point. I used 4.5 - 5 and varied as I was testing out different tries.

I`m def going to pick up either a 4 inch or 5 inch backing plate and pads for the next try.

I didn`t do a alcohol wipe down, that may be the problem. I will add that step next time.

Thank you guys for the suggestions.

[firebird]

I am only a weekend warrior but don`t touch M105 anymore since D300. Have had no problems at all but you do always need a finishing polish after any compounding.

[Todd@RUPES]

Honestly I wouldn`t pay to much attention to the "hard paint" sticker as some of the cars I have seen with this "warning" have had some of the softest, stickiest and most finicky paint systems I have ever worked on.

Second, try wiping the paint down with a panel wipe or IPA before polishing if you start to run into the problems. Some times silicone or wax contamination can reek havoc on any step of the process. Once the pad becomes contaminated with said contamination you have to switch to a fresh clean pad.

Poorboy`s EXP is very easy to use in my experience. It sounds like the paint itself was being a pain in the booty. I am sure you will get much better results next time around

[mrclean81]

EX-P can at times be a little stubborn on soft and sticky paint. It can also be stubborn if it sets up too long. Even still, it shouldnt work you to death. I would be willing to bet that it was just applied too thick.

[JSFM35X]

Todd is dead on. My black Infiniti had that same sticker and I caused me to use an over aggressive pad/polish combo and made me miserable. I feel your pain.

I suggest you get a softer polihing/finishing pad. Some Menzerna 203 and 85rd (sorry don`t know the new formula numbers) and give that a try.

I have zero experience with the HF but I prefer 5.5 " pads. Use about 15 lbs of pressure and moves slowly in a 24" x 24" area up and down then left to right until the polish clears. Wipe off and inspect.

Where are you located. Perhaps someone can show you the ropes. Or I strongly suggest attending a detailing event.

Honestly I wouldn`t pay to much attention to the "hard paint" sticker as some of the cars I have seen with this "warning" have had some of the softest, stickiest and most finicky paint systems I have ever worked on.

Second, try wiping the paint down with a panel wipe or IPA before polishing if you start to run into the problems. Some times silicone or wax contamination can reek havoc on any step of the process. Once the pad becomes contaminated with said contamination you have to switch to a fresh clean pad.

Poorboy`s EXP is very easy to use in my experience. It sounds like the paint itself was being a pain in the booty. I am sure you will get much better results next time around

[glen e]

I never polish in this hot weather without my windex bottle full of rinseless....when polishing starts to dry out too fast, a spritz of rinseless gets things moving again.....

[Todd@RUPES]

Todd is dead on. My black Infiniti had that same sticker and I caused me to use an over aggressive pad/polish combo and made me miserable. I feel your pain.

I suggest you get a softer polihing/finishing pad. Some Menzerna 203 and 85rd (sorry don`t know the new formula numbers) and give that a try.

I have zero experience with the HF but I prefer 5.5 " pads. Use about 15 lbs of pressure and moves slowly in a 24" x 24" area up and down then left to right until the polish clears. Wipe off and inspect.

Where are you located. Perhaps someone can show you the ropes. Or I strongly suggest attending a detailing event.

Infiniti`s are the worst!

[JSFM35X]

Now you tell me, I am on my 5th!

Now that I have the Perscription I am golden. Do not believe the sticker, the finish is not hard, it is rather soft. To many frustratiing day with my black M35X.

Infiniti`s are the worst!

[Swanicyouth]

You and I have a few things in common:

1. We both have a Nissan product with a "hard cc" sticker

2. We both have suffered the wrath of EX-P that sits.

Although my Nissan is much older, the best combo I`ve found to remove defects is a yellow LC CCS pad with WG TSR 3.0. That works well for me

Despite what the directions say, leaving EX-P sit is not good. You have to remove it panel by panel IME. I don`t use it anymore because there are so many easier products to work with, like PowerLock or BFWD.