Porsche 911

[Sizzle Chest]

2012.5 Porsche Carrera 911
Agate Grey/Luxor Beige
56,721 miles

This is a new client of mine. Vehicle was in pretty good shape. Typical swirls, some water spot etching, and some heavier scratches.
It got some correction and protection and is now ready to take on many more miles!

The ‘details’:

McKee’s 37 Iron remover.
Blackfire shampoo.
Medium clay alternative mitt.
Master Blaster to dry.
Scangrip lighting.
DeFelsko PTG.
Flex 3401
Flex XFE15
Rupes iBrid.
Griot’s Fast Correcting Cream.
Griot’s Perfecting Cream.
22ple Mistico Elemento Forte.
22ple VM1.
SCG Pro glass cleaner.
Metro vacuum.
McKee’s 37 quick interior detailer.
Pinnacle exhaust cleaner and brightener.
Adam’s APC.
Optimum panel/paint prep for final wipedown.
McKee’s 37 High gloss tire dressing.


Thanks for looking!

[Sizzle Chest]

[atgonzales]

Nicely done, Mr Sizzle

[TheMeanGreen]

Great work as always! Question, what`s with the dirty wheel wells in the final shots?

[Sizzle Chest]

Plastic in the wells has been cleaned and coated...


Thanks all!

[TheMeanGreen]

I must not be seeing all the other photo`s everyone else is seeing, the photo`s that I am seeing show wheel wells that look grey and faded, and dirty. But the wheels and tires sure do look clean.

[Sizzle Chest]

^^^That`s the undercoated metal portion of the fender. It`s clean...just looks like poo...

[Lonnie]

Sizzle Chest:
As a Porsche- aficionado, thanks for posting pics on this iconic 911 (ALL Porsches` are iconic to me). Just wish there were one or two pics of the interior, but that was not the focus of this detail by the customer.

Some questions (of course, Captain Obvious) about Porsche wheel removal and installation:
1) Do you have a wheel jack cradle to assist you in getting the wheel assembly (tire and rim) off and on to the hub? Those wheels, though designed to be light, still must weigh at least 20-25 pounds, and getting them centered on the hub boss and aligning the mounting holes without damaging the rim has got to be a physical task if you just man-handle them when re-installing them up to the hub. (IE lift them up by brute strength.)
2) Do the rim installation bolts require a special oil or lubricant to keep them from seizing (rusting) in the hub tapped holes, or do they come from the Porsche assembly factory with an anti-seize coating/plating applied to the bolt threads? OR, are you required to use brand-new genuine OEM Porsche bolts? (AH, the joys and expense of Porsche ownership!) I know some vehicle manufacturers have two recommended torque values for wheel nuts on hub studs: one for dry threads and one for lubed or oiled threads.
3) Do these wheel bolts need to be checked and re-tightened after so many miles of driving after re-installation to assure that wheel is properly secured to the hub? If so, do you offer to do that for your clients, assuming you have properly inspected, certified, and calibrated torque wrench or special tool(s) to do so?

On a COMPLETELY different subject, any "news" on when that chrome polish/cleaner you are beta-testing might be forth-coming to us "mere-mortal" detailers?
(Another title for Captain Obvious: Captain Impatient!)

[Sizzle Chest]

Sizzle Chest:
As a Porsche- aficionado, thanks for posting pics on this iconic 911 (ALL Porsches` are iconic to me). Just wish there were one or two pics of the interior, but that was not the focus of this detail by the customer. I am glad you enjoy them!

Some questions (of course, Captain Obvious) about Porsche wheel removal and installation:
1) Do you have a wheel jack cradle to assist you in getting the wheel assembly (tire and rim) off and on to the hub? Those wheels, though designed to be light, still must weigh at least 20-25 pounds, and getting them centered on the hub boss and aligning the mounting holes without damaging the rim has got to be a physical task if you just man-handle them when re-installing them up to the hub. (IE lift them up by brute strength.) I do not. I just lift them onto the centering studs. Not too bad.
2) Do the rim installation bolts require a special oil or lubricant to keep them from seizing (rusting) in the hub tapped holes, or do they come from the Porsche assembly factory with an anti-seize coating/plating applied to the bolt threads? OR, are you required to use brand-new genuine OEM Porsche bolts? (AH, the joys and expense of Porsche ownership!) I know some vehicle manufacturers have two recommended torque values for wheel nuts on hub studs: one for dry threads and one for lubed or oiled threads. No. Dry. There is a small amount of factory lube on them. Very little though.
3) Do these wheel bolts need to be checked and re-tightened after so many miles of driving after re-installation to assure that wheel is properly secured to the hub? If so, do you offer to do that for your clients, assuming you have properly inspected, certified, and calibrated torque wrench or special tool(s) to do so? My snap on torque wrench goes back to them annually to make sure it is calibrated. And yes, I always want to have them re-torqued after driving/getting hot and cooling down. If my clients prefer, I will do this for them.

On a COMPLETELY different subject, any "news" on when that chrome polish/cleaner you are beta-testing might be forth-coming to us "mere-mortal" detailers?
(Another title for Captain Obvious: Captain Impatient!)

I have not heard anything on the release of this yet!