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  1. #151

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    Yeah, I was thinking about that also. You may want to wrangle one up and install it. It will help in both regards. Silver paint I think would look great on that piece.
    "I can`t believe that we would lie in our graves wondering if we had spent our living days well." - Dave Matthews

  2. #152

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    I`ve never had problems with cars that lacked the underhood pad and IMO that engine won`t get hot enough to cause trouble.



    For the heat shield, if you don`t mind spending a little $ you could get a chrome-like ceramic coating from somebody like THESE GUYS. They handle the cleanup/prep/etc. too, all you have to do is ship it to them (and pay the bill).

  3. #153

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    Hmm, I`ll probably just use some chrome spray paint first, just to see. I remember this guy in H.S. that used chrome spray paint on his wheel covers of his 323, and I was surprised at how good they looked. If I don`t like it, it`s only a few bucks wasted.
    Paul...

    `13 Mazda3i P21S/WG sealant/Paste Glaz/QD+
    `99 Mazda Protege LX - highlight silver - RIP
    `95 Nissan Maxima SE - white - slathered with Pinnacle Paste Glaz - RIP

  4. #154

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    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator
    I`ve never had problems with cars that lacked the underhood pad and IMO that engine won`t get hot enough to cause trouble.


    I never had a car without one, so whadda I know? (Wait...maybe that `66 Mustang I had briefly...<shudder>) I don`t think that engine will get hot enough to do anything either.

  5. #155

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    White95Max- Per usual, I`d check out EASTWOOD. They have the chrome-like paint.

  6. #156

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    I couldn`t find it on their site, can you post a link? Is there a big difference between spray paints? I mean, it`s just for a heat shield after all.
    Paul...

    `13 Mazda3i P21S/WG sealant/Paste Glaz/QD+
    `99 Mazda Protege LX - highlight silver - RIP
    `95 Nissan Maxima SE - white - slathered with Pinnacle Paste Glaz - RIP

  7. #157

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    Yeah, there can be a pretty dramatic difference, especially with regard to durability (and peeling/flaking paint looks awful).



    I hadn`t looked on their website, but they have something in their print catalog...let`s see...ah [shoot] the only thing listed for really high temps is:



    Silver Hight Temp Coating, brilliant matte silver sheen. pn 10396Z $15.99 for a spraycan.



    They have other stuff but it`s only rated to 300F or lower. Both Almost Chrome (pn 10352Z) and Silver Exhaust Paint (pn 10020Z) are only good to 300.



    So pull the shield off, get it blasted (should only cost a few bucks) and spray it with that High Temp stuff. Oughta look pretty good.

  8. #158

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    Jun 2005
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    You could get some dress up pieces. Here`s a Protege5 engine bay (pre-turbo), clean:







    In particular, I like that silver piece atop the radiator.. whatever that`s called. Some pieces still needed more clean up, but I think those salt stains are a PITA to get out on some of those iron pieces.. (if not, how would you do it?)



    link on how to paint heat shield



    flat black head shield pics

  9. #159

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    That seems like the easy way out to me! Instead of polishing the valve cover, they just put some plastic over it!

    I do like that piece atop the radiator though.



    Which iron pieces are you referring to? The piece that`s holding the A/C line to the passenger side strut tower?
    Paul...

    `13 Mazda3i P21S/WG sealant/Paste Glaz/QD+
    `99 Mazda Protege LX - highlight silver - RIP
    `95 Nissan Maxima SE - white - slathered with Pinnacle Paste Glaz - RIP

  10. #160

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    I`m not sure why he suggests to unclip the connector, rather than just removing the O2 sensor?



    http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed...owto/pic20.jpg
    Paul...

    `13 Mazda3i P21S/WG sealant/Paste Glaz/QD+
    `99 Mazda Protege LX - highlight silver - RIP
    `95 Nissan Maxima SE - white - slathered with Pinnacle Paste Glaz - RIP

  11. #161

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    Heh heh, needless to say (I suppose ) the idea of covering up stuff with functionally worthless components isn`t the approach I`d take



    Oh, and as for the apparent salt damage on the (nice) car in the recent pic, about all you can do is abrasively polish the pieces until they look decent and put something like Zoop Seal on them to keep them that way. Once the cad plating has been compromised (e.g., the clamp on the A/C hose by the strut tower) it`s a losing battle with limited potential. That`s why you want to keep such stuff clean in the first place The cad plated stuff on the undercarriage of the MPV (talk about taking abuse ) is still fine; all I ever did was wash it every time I wash the vehicle. Never even put wax on it and it`s still fine years later despite the Ohio winters.

  12. #162

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    quick question on the headliner, what was your dilution ratio for woolite/water?

  13. #163

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    I think I just poured a spot about the size of a quarter into a 1-gallon bucket, and filled it about halfway with warm water.

    I didn`t want to have too much soap in the solution, because I didn`t want to be required to rinse the headliner. The least amount of water I had to use, the better.
    Paul...

    `13 Mazda3i P21S/WG sealant/Paste Glaz/QD+
    `99 Mazda Protege LX - highlight silver - RIP
    `95 Nissan Maxima SE - white - slathered with Pinnacle Paste Glaz - RIP

  14. #164

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    Quote Originally Posted by White95Max
    I`m not sure why he suggests to unclip the connector, rather than just removing the O2 sensor?



    http://www3.telus.net/nicap/nivspeed...owto/pic20.jpg
    Removing the O2 sensor is a pain. Actually, screwing it back in straight is the real pain, from what I remember.



    But you can do either.. just take it slow and careful screwing the O2 sensor back in.

  15. #165

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    What`s so hard about removing the sensor? Is it just hard to get a socket around the sensor because the heat shield is in the way?
    Paul...

    `13 Mazda3i P21S/WG sealant/Paste Glaz/QD+
    `99 Mazda Protege LX - highlight silver - RIP
    `95 Nissan Maxima SE - white - slathered with Pinnacle Paste Glaz - RIP

 

 
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