A small "how-to" on chip repair/wetsanding + spring cleaning (black G35) (56k = owie)

**imported_Picus** · 04-10-2007, 04:06 PM

No, and no. I`ve never seen a chip repair that I did oxidize or pop out after it was sanded and polished. They sometimes pop out during sanding, which is why I like to wait 48 hours.

If I was doing a large scratch I might add some clear as the last layer of paint before sanding. I generally find when adding clear it`s actually harder to get the paint to match perfectly.

**mose** · 04-10-2007, 04:14 PM

Amazing write up!! Thank you so much!

My question is: When doing a car and waiting the two days for the paint to cure, can the car be driven?

**5IVE** · 04-10-2007, 04:25 PM

Thank you for this awesome information!!! One more thing...does the sand paper brand matter? I should have put these in 1 post! Will attempt soon and post b/a pics...High 5IVE!!

**Evenflow** · 04-10-2007, 05:13 PM

Excellent write up. Someone slammed their door into mine and took out a chunk of paint. After reading this im no longer nervous about painting it up, and sanding it out. Going to give it a shot soon.

**imported_Picus** · 04-10-2007, 05:54 PM

Originally Posted by 5IVE

Thank you for this awesome information!!! One more thing...does the sand paper brand matter? I should have put these in 1 post! Will attempt soon and post b/a pics...High 5IVE!!

Well the brand doesn`t matter so much but I highly recommend unigrit paper. I find it`s much, much easier to get out sandpaper marring when using 2k-3k unigrit as opposed to regular 2-3k grit.

**imported_Reflections** · 04-11-2007, 11:40 AM

Great write-up and great work, thanks for taking the time to share. Hope you`re getting less snow than we are in Calgary right now.

Edit - Question:

If you`re adding clear at the end and before sanding, isn`t there a danger if you build up the basecoat too deep that you will sand all the clearcoat off while levelling the scratch?

Also, is it worth masking off an inch out from around the whole scratch to reduce how much area you`re sanding?

**BMW335i** · 04-11-2007, 11:46 AM

Picus, I got a scrape on the underside of my front bumper (the lip). Its below the actual face of the bumper so from standing outside you can`t see it. Would you approach a scrape (with quite a few spots down to the black plastic) the same way? If not, what would you reccomend? Thanks.

**imported_Picus** · 04-11-2007, 07:57 PM

Originally Posted by Reflections

Great write-up and great work, thanks for taking the time to share. Hope you`re getting less snow than we are in Calgary right now.

Edit - Question:

If you`re adding clear at the end and before sanding, isn`t there a danger if you build up the basecoat too deep that you will sand all the clearcoat off while levelling the scratch?

Also, is it worth masking off an inch out from around the whole scratch to reduce how much area you`re sanding?

Heya - when I layer the paint the layers are really, really thin, so it not a lot of sanding is required. I suppose it is possible all the clear is sanded off, but as I mentioned above that doesn`t really matter anyway. The clear is more to make the touchup match than for protection.

Masking might work, I don`t do it because the whole process is almost like blending paint, so making might leave funny marks. It is worth a shot though, maybe I will try it on my next one.

Originally Posted by BMW335i

Picus, I got a scrape on the underside of my front bumper (the lip). Its below the actual face of the bumper so from standing outside you can`t see it. Would you approach a scrape (with quite a few spots down to the black plastic) the same way? If not, what would you reccomend? Thanks.

I know those scrapes!

The problem with bumpers is that the paint is often thicker on them, so it`s harder to reach the level of the existing paint. Otherwise I would approach it in exactly the same manner.

**Stuff** · 04-11-2007, 09:38 PM

Great write and nice paint. I`m thinking of fixing a few little chips and scratches by doing basically what you did. I`m looking at purchasing some unigrit paper. Should I just get a couple sheets if all I`m going to do doing is what you did? How many sheets per problem? Thanks for you help.

**Evenflow** · 04-11-2007, 11:37 PM

Sorry maybe I am missing it somewhere, but did you add a clear and if so where?

**djomlas** · 04-12-2007, 08:17 AM

where can you get a sandpaper that high? all i can find at autostores is like 1200 or so...

wouold pepboys/autozone kinda places have this?

btw, you did a freaking awesome job man. i have a scratch on my car that i touched up but you can definitely see it, from putting a hardtop on by PO, so i will be using your writeup for that, now if i can jsut get the sandpaper somewhere

**Stuff** · 04-12-2007, 08:38 AM

Originally Posted by djomlas

where can you get a sandpaper that high? all i can find at autostores is like 1200 or so...

wouold pepboys/autozone kinda places have this?

btw, you did a freaking awesome job man. i have a scratch on my car that i touched up but you can definitely see it, from putting a hardtop on by PO, so i will be using your writeup for that, now if i can jsut get the sandpaper somewhere

Meguiars Wet Sanding Supplies

You can get unigrit there and in single sheets. Thing is I`m not sure how much to buy.

**imported_Picus** · 04-12-2007, 08:40 AM

Originally Posted by evenflow

Sorry maybe I am missing it somewhere, but did you add a clear and if so where?

I didn`t. I find on black it makes the paint harder to match.

Originally Posted by djomlas

where can you get a sandpaper that high? all i can find at autostores is like 1200 or so...

wouold pepboys/autozone kinda places have this?

btw, you did a freaking awesome job man. i have a scratch on my car that i touched up but you can definitely see it, from putting a hardtop on by PO, so i will be using your writeup for that, now if i can jsut get the sandpaper somewhere

I get the 3k unigrit from Meguiars Online.