Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
Nice tip :grinno:
Originally Posted by Anthony Orosco
Nice tip :grinno:
wow ! awesome work.. just another lesson for all of us contemplating wet sanding.. check the work often i guess ?
Looks great, Anthony. Wetsanding is fun
I`m so dam tired of wet sanding. The cold dry air and the water are just tearing up my hands.
Nice Work O. Wish I was there to help. Just a second. I was there! You must have done that while I was out getting your 2nd twelve pack Keystone
Originally Posted by Dent`s & Details
How many times do I have to tell you!!?? :furious: It`s Dos Equis!.....not Keystone... ya twit :LOLOL
"The Art & Science of Auto Detail"
Anthony -
I have been searching for a few hours, looking for threads on scratch repair - this one is most appropriate, so I figured I`d post in here. Long story short, yesterday with the 40+ mph winds we had, a sign blew across the fender, mirror, and top of the windshield on my `05 Boxster S. Needless to say, I was pretty frantic. The before pics I took yesterday, and today set about seeing what kind of correction I could do on my own before seeking professional opinions. I used SSR2 on a swirlbuster pad, followed up by Menzerna FPII, and resealed, just because its winter. It drastically reduced the major marring, etc, but there are still small, shallow clearcoat scratches that can be seen under light. I`m not happy with the result, I`d like to get it close to perfection as possible...I`d also like to avoid a respray. I`d love to hear your opinions, having wetsanded this scratch and perfecting it–*should I bite the bullet and do a 2000 sand, followed by polish to take these out? I dont use a rotary (PC), but I`m thinking of asking an old friend (bodyshop pro) to wetsand the panel to hopefully take these out. Any advice you or anyone can give would be appreciated. Nice job on the scratch as well - thats the result I want on this damage!
Before
After process above
Again - any advice would be appreciated. I want to avoid respray here - wondering if wetsand with or without a clear coat touchup would work. Thanks guys.
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Nathan
2005 Porsche Boxster S
Atlas Grey Metallic
3000 Grit > HC via Cutting Pad > OP via Polishing Pad
Damage doesn`t look too severe, but those are somewhat dark shots. I think the next best step would be to step up to a Compound or Heavy compound.
Anthony what do you say? :laugh:
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The hardest parts to repair will be the top portion, mainly because of the location, and the side view mirror because it is of a plastic material.
Here is my train of thought.....break out the 2000 grit and also get some 3000 grit paper and go into this with the mindset of, "If I screw it up I will get it repainted!"
The downside to repainting is the amount of painting they will need to do because of blending the metallic color but may be your only option if the wetsanding doesn`t do a satisfactory job or if you happen to go through the clear while attempting to repair it.
So might as well go for it yourself and who knows you may just surprise yourself and do a fantastic job.
Ron and I just completed a video on wetsanding that I am trying to get uploaded and I`ll provide a link to it as soon as I do.
Anthony
"The Art & Science of Auto Detail"
could someone link me to pads you would use for this. thanks in advanced.
Anthony - thanks for the reply. I think that may do it, or at least minimize the impact of the scratches. They really do look like simple clear coat abrasions, they`re not that deep...not as deep as the one you repaired via wetsanding in the original post. There`s just a lot of them. What do you guys think about filling them in with clear? Like touchup the clear in the scratches first, then level with a 3000 grit?
I`d really like to avoid a repaint, because of all the reasons you listed, and then some. The original finish on these Finnish bodies is really nice, hate to compromise that.
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Nathan
2005 Porsche Boxster S
Atlas Grey Metallic
Porsche Bumper Wetsanding - Optimum Forum
Wetsanding videos
"The Art & Science of Auto Detail"
this is incredible - thanks so much for posting this. I actually feel like now I might want to attempt it on my own! However, I`ll need a rotary, i believe...what kind of pads is your partner using there...looks like a regular wool polishing pad? Not twisted, im guessing. At any rate, I think I`ll try 2000 or 3000 unigrit, and polish out with Intensive Polish. Guess I`ll need to learn this at some point
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Nathan
2005 Porsche Boxster S
Atlas Grey Metallic
Originally Posted by dezigns
Glad you found it informative and entertaining.
The wool pad is a lambswool pad and correct, not a twisted or blended wool.
When working with grits 3000 and up a lot can be buffed out with an orbital using the right pad/product combo.
Grits lower than 2000 can be stubborn to remove unless a rotary is used.
The key is to induce even sanding marks and only sand until the sheen or gloss is gone and no more. Practice panels are key before you set off on your car....tread with caution
Originally Posted by mgm121499
Hey John, glad you liked it
You should be able to get that block at your better body and shop supply houses. They should be next to the 3M supplies.
Anthony
"The Art & Science of Auto Detail"
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