Thanks everyone for the advice.
Yes, my vans under warranty for a few more months so I want to make the change over to synthetic next year sometime.
Ive always changed my own oil until I got this van that requires me to use a jack( too low to crawl under) and special tools for the filter .
I would really like to start changing my own oil again.I used to really enjoy the satisfaction of doing it myself and saving money.
I just need to buy heavy duty jack and learn how the internal element in the filter is changed.
I love the idea of going longer between oil changes too!
Prayer of St.Francis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69ni2...endscreen&NR=1
Unless you have a special engine, most any properly graded oil is good. You just need to change it according to usage. Oil has progressed so much in the last 5 years or so.
If you are really concerned, I would suggest getting a used oil analysis to see where you are since the analysis can spot possible engine issues too.
Al
The Need to Bead
I don`t believe synthetic oil is an advantage when one lives in a paradise like San Diego.
Just how many cold starts do you experience?
Synthetic Oil = longer intervals between changes, but it more expensive. I use RP in my truck and in my Mustang and go 5K miles between oil changes.
Most newer cars and trucks use at least a sythetic blend or use synthetic from the factory.
I use synthetic oil and still change at 3000 miles.
For what its worth (I`m pretty anal about charting fuel economy) I have noticed just a little under 1 mpg increase (highway) on two previous cars (about 12k miles each way. This tells me if I get (a small but consistent) increase in mileage it is from reduced internal friction in the motor. Reduced friction, to me, is always a good thing when discussing parts.
Prayer of St.Francis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69ni2...endscreen&NR=1
I`m not a mechanic, nor do I play one on TV, but I know some well respected mechanics and trust what they say. (One of those has posted in this thread).
Of all the vehicles I`ve owned, the first (and only) vehicle I ever used fully synthetic oil in is my truck. I`ve only done that because the previous owner had switched to synthetic at the first oil change.
Our Volvo which has 180k miles came from the factory will a semi-synthetic oil.
Mrs. Clean`s VW Beetle TurboS uses regular crude and has @ 110k.
All of the above are serviced at 5k intervals.
All well known national trucking concern has their R&D division perform a cost/benefit analysis on the use of synthetic vs non-synthetic oils in their substantial fleet and found no cost benefit for switching to synthetic. It is worth noting their equipment and driving conditions are not similar to that of the commuter. They also go far beyond 5k service intervals.
Re changing over from non-synthetic to synthetic: According to my sources, this can present problems such as creating leaks where there were none.
And as well stated above, use an oil which meets (or exceeds) the specifications required by your vehicle`s manufacturer and follow the specified maintenance schedule and you should enjoy many happy miles.
"If you get to thinkin` you`re a person of some influence, try orderin` somebody else`s dog around."
--Will Rogers
Prayer of St.Francis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69ni2...endscreen&NR=1
Has anyone ever seen a post anywhere that Dino oil changed on the interval does not do the job? I went thru the stage where I ran Mobil 1 and felt great I was "protecting" my engine more.
Now I just change on the reg interval and use a good Dino oil. If I was trying to run on extended interval, or was in extreme conditions, I`d use syn, but for my DD, I`ll use Dino.
Many good quarts of syn, with lots of life left , are disposed of each year when changed on interval.
Glen
21 X2 M35i
18 300 Xmax
I was always under the impression that while synthetic oil will definately last longer, it still gets dirty at the same rate, which is why you should go too long between changes.
Whats a cold start
Typically anytime your motor sets for a long time gravity will pull the oil from the top side of the engine and it will drain into the oil pan. Most of the friction that wears an engine occurs in the first 10 seconds after start up as a thin oil film may be all that is present. One of the advantages of synthetic oil, supposedly, is that the thin oil film will have far greater lubricity and thus protect better.
I just add a little BF Wet Diamond to the oil to help on cold starts
An excellent resource is BITOG, Bob Is The Oil Guy forum. Chemists and retired oil refinery persons are among those that provide frequent commentary. Blackstone lab is often used if ever interested in an oil analysis. Summary/Generally, 4K-5K mile (primarily city) change intervals- dino (base - group II or II+) oil is fine. Synthetics (base - group III or III+ hydro cracked) oils are for either longer change intervals 8K to 10K with some HWY mileage or personal preference. Could go on and on but do not want to bore everyone.
[QUOTE=Todd Helme;442687]I was always under the impression that while synthetic oil will definately last longer, it still gets dirty at the same rate, which is why you should go too long between changes.
It depends on the oil your using ,but I know Toyota says with their synthetic you can go 10,000 between changes instead of the recommended 5,000.
Yours being a newer vehicle I would be surprised if you really needed to change yours at every 3,000.
Prayer of St.Francis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69ni2...endscreen&NR=1
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